Muzzle Brake

N

ninosdemente

New member
In the market for a muzzle brake for a bolt action for a Savage 12FV 6.5 creedmoor. I have been reading and looking at videos. Don't know anything on this matter other than to reduce recoil and loud noise when shooting from what I read.

I had difficulties in the past looking for a gun smith near where I live and I finally found a person. Have been interested for some time, but didn't do much research as I couldn't find someone until recently.

What do you guys have for your muzzle brake? I saw about 5-6 companies that have showed up as "recommendations" on different online sites. But rather ask here and get honest answers. I have seen quite a few price ranges but haven't seen any expensive prices yet. Looking to be around the $150 but can go a bit higher. Again don't know much on these/quality/good/bad.... any help will greatly be appreciated.

Thanks in advanced.
 
I’ll start with my standard line… I only dabble in rifles, however I have my prairie dog rifle all tricked out to my benefit. One of them is the Witt Machine & Tool clamp-on muzzle brake. This is on my 24” heavy varmint barrel Howa 1500 in .223 Rem.

No, my recoil was never “heavy” however the muzzle brake has wiped out what little recoil I had, and I did this for ONE single goal: to be able to maintain my view in the scope for the entirety of each shot. That goal has been attained and this brake has been a fantastic addition to my rifle.

Complaints? It isn’t handsome. Beyond that, I cannot think of anything. Measuring was easy, the brake arrived quickly and just as I ordered, install was smooth as silk, build quality is terrific and this thing does exactly what I wanted it to do.

I wish I could make an assessment on how much “louder” it is but that’s lost on me. My ears are hyper sensitive, so I’m hardcore on the ear protection. It’s probably louder, but it hasn’t chased the prairie dogs away any faster.

https://www.wittmachine.net/

I have no idea if there is a better option, and doubt I will ever know because this sucker works so well for me that I have no plans to try anything else.
 
One of those radial things with ports all 360 degrees around seems to be popular to tame 6.5 CM rifles. The benefit I have found with them is that you don’t need to necessarily “time” them like a square one or one that has a 12 o’clock position necessary to work properly. You can get your smithy to tighten it down and you’re on your way. Ports are a bit small, but there are a lot of them. So you will get the same gas redirection as you would with a larger one with fewer holes. Yankee Hill Machine and a few other makers do a deal where the muzzle brake is the attachment point for a can. I think you can (please correct me if I am wrong in this) purchase the brake/adapter thing separately, and if you so happen to get a can down the road, simple thread on, no need for taking that off and threading on the can, vice versa. Two stones, one bird!!

Some of those radial things come in the same or very similar size diameter as the muzzle end of your tube, so they “look” seamless. I made a prototype out of brass, and I liked how everything turned out, so I might get some high grade stainless steel and tool one of those up and have it installed on mine. I’ll see if I can attach photos of it.
 
A muzzle brake will reduce recoil.
But it will do the exact opposite of reducing noise.
Another consideration is muzzle blast.
Anything loose nearby will go flying!
Dust, dirt, gravel included.
 
A muzzle brake will reduce recoil.
But it will do the exact opposite of reducing noise.
Another consideration is muzzle blast.
Anything loose nearby will go flying!
Dust, dirt, gravel included.
Click to expand...
...teeth
...brain
 
Finally got them to add!! This is my brass prototype. Threaded right onto the barrel, would just need to make or buy a crush washer to time it.

This would direct blast upwards to help take muzzle rise. Some side ports, but can cap them with machine screws to keep side bleed blast from disturbing shooters on either side. If it is just me, I will remove the screws.
 

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Looks cool. I'm no expert, but I've talked to a couple of manufacturers about their designs, one thing they told me was you have to be careful of is cutting/pitting over time which can disrupt/turbulate the exhaust gas.
 
Also a very valid concern. Thanks for the compliments. One of the first prototypes I ever made was out of Aluminum, 6061-T611 stuff I had on hand. A drop from an order I finished a while back.

Never realized how porous aluminum really is. I made one for my 1911 and put about three magazines through and the aluminum was so stained and I could NOT scrub it off. With high pressure brass, the pitting should hold off a little longer, but the cutting and pitting is still a legit concern.

I think with Stainless steel, it will be much more resistant to the ill effects. I picked up a chunk of 316 in our mixed metal scrap bin. If this brass bit works even for a few shots, I will do the same thing to the SS chunk. I machined the blank out and drilled the bore, threaded the mounting hole, and did the cross holes. Just finished writing the programs for the big pockets and corner breaks. If I like it, I’ll hit go on the machine and crank it out.

The aluminum prototype that time still mystifies me.
 
You might consider giving Jeremy at Khantrol solutions brakes (my all-around favorites) a call. My guess is he could give you some great advice as long as you don't drift the conversation into liability territory.;)
 
Muzzle brakes reduce recoil, but increase noise. They redirect the blast back to the shooter.

The only exception I am aware of is the linear compensator like. I like them. Minimal recoil reduction, but they do a little, however they push all the blast forward away from the shooter. Very advantageous on a hunting gun imho.

if you Want a linear comp I would look at the kaw valley comps. I have several and really like them. and they are inexpensive, in the $50 to $80 range.https://www.joeboboutfitters.com/Articles.asp?ID=301&Search=kaw+valley

If you looking for a muzzle brake I would look at the EC tuner brake. It allows you to tune the barrel harmonics to tigten groups up. its a bit above your budget at $225, but for the extra feature I think it would be worth it.
https://www.shootsmallgroups.com/product/ec-tuner-brake-ss-5-8-24-thread/

the other 2 I would recommend are the area 419 hellfire at about $165, and the VG6 PRS65 at about $155. heres a video comparing these 2.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCKxJhz1yhI
 
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These are a bit loud, but big rifles are loud anyways. Please have a look over at

MBM

These work very well, but are quite loud.
 
Dang!!! Awful pretty is RIGHT!! Look at those things! I might have to look into doing something a little different with my design.

Not going to copy MBM, at all. But I have to say, that self-timing system they have is just the business! Did NOT expect to see that this morning when I signed on.
 
Another vote for the EC tuner brake.
Not cheap, but for what you get & what it does, well worth the price!
There's a reason match shooters like them!
 
std7mag said:
There's a reason match shooters like them!
Click to expand...

Which match shooters? F class? 1000yd Benchrest? Short Benchrest? Or lower accuracy sports like hunting and prs.

That said, tuners work. They are an excellent way to tune a good load to great in a hunting rifle without 100’s of throat eating rounds!
 
Something to consider about the brakes with "ports all the way around 360", and that is, is the rifle EVER going to be shot prone over dusty ground?? (or for that matter wet splattery mud??)

The ports on the bottom of the brake will vent gas straight into the ground and can create quite a cloud shot prone under some conditions.

This is the reason you "clock" the different "birdcage" type brakes, to make sure no port is pointing straight down.
 
@Nathan,
All the above.
At least the tuner.
I've been shooting short range benchrest the past couple of years.
Where i shoot, brakes are allowed, just on their own relay.
You'd have to check the rules of the matches you want to shoot as to if a break is allowed.
 
I think that is why I like the blind bottom of my prototype, I would have to clock it or “time” it. I have done much reading on how to do this. I will probably make the washer myself and time it myself. I finished machining the blank today, drilled and threaded the mounting hole, cut and honed the bore true to the threads. Stainless steel sure does clean up nice!! I will be finalizing the program tomorrow on my coffee break. If I get caught up with all the other things laying around my work bench, I will try to hit go on the machine and crank out this one in SS. I don’t think I will thread the side ports to stop sideways gases. I think if I am going to touch off this rifle, I won’t be in a group of many to have to worry about it, I will be in a field waiting for chucks to pop their silly heads up one last time. At least I hope it will be the last time…. Could just scare the snot out of them!! =-p

Once I get it finished, I will post pictures. Then once it is mounted, I will post another picture.

To all on here who have done the timing job themselves…. I ask you this. What did you use for your washer?? One of those kits, or did you make yourself a timing washer?? I have some free machining brass chunks on my bench, my muzzle is 1” just before the threading, and the material is precision ground to 1”. I think it is just calling my name!! Would take nothing to drill and ream out the center for the threads, clean up and polish the outside, relieve the one side so it deforms and sets size. Thoughts?
 
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