Muzzle Brake Question

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blacksky

New member
Wanting to put a Muzzle Brake on my AR 15 with a Rainier Arms 20" SS barrel. I've come down to these 2 models but I am open to other ideas.

The PRI MSTN Quiet Control Brake/Compensator

http://www.pri-mounts.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PRI&Product_Code=05-0089&Category_Code=AR15_M16_ACC

Or:

The Holland Muzzle Break

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=109958&cm_mmc=Froogle-_-Gunsmithing%20-%20Gun%20Parts%20-%20Rifle%20-%20(Aftermarket)-_-PriceCompListing-_-109958
 
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The Holland brake you linked is for a 3/4X28 thread, you need a 1/2X28 thread.

Why do you want a brake on a 20" stainless barrel, that is going to have hardly any recoil at all. With a well tuned buffer/RE spring it well be near rimfire recoil.:confused:

A brake well be obnoxious to shooters on either side of you.
 
I've taken the flash hider/muzzle brake off a couple of AR's that were obnoxious to shoot and just plain painfull if shot while hunting w/o ear plugs. The only reason I have a muzzle brake/flash hider on a couple of other rifles I hunt with is that they prevent banging the muzzle crown on obstructions, ATV fenders, field gates, and such.
 
To stop barrel rise improving accuracy.

Right, there is little to no felt recoil in a 5.56 AR platform. I want a brake to stop barrel rise in competitive shooting, improving my accuracy... ;Yes the noise is a factor? :confused:
 
I use a Levang Linear for huntin and a YHM Phantom Comp the rest of the time.

I also will throw on the Miculek when I want to be obnoxious at the range.
 
MC223

MC223, thank you for a straight foward answer to my question. I will take a look at those options you mention. :)
 
Hey, I've spent the past eight months basically living in a high-precision machine shop...

And I can fix you up. I've started my own "first project" and I'm making a few different muzzle brakes. I'm an accuracy/precision shooting nut (benchrester), and I'm really liking this. I'm an apprentice machinist, but I'm a fifty year old apprentice with a LOT of firearms experience. These have a nice big expansion chamber with good porting.

I've got several at http://stickertramp.com/?p=75.

Let me know if you like 'em. One thing to watch out for - asymmetrical brakes (such as the one with the holes on the top, but not on the bottom) are not as accurate as the ones that have equal force all around. But they -do- work a lot better on muzzle rise.
 
Bogie,

Nice looking Brakes, but I am more concerned with splash of gasses kicking up dirt shooting prone then muzzle rise. It would be nice if you could address that problem as well.


Good Luck on your venture.
Jim
 
Well, the photo has two brakes, which work symmetrically, and one compensator with a closed bottom - that's the one with the two big side ports and the four holes along the top). This will result in less scattering of dirt/dust, etc., but it -will- affect your accuracy somewhat - and any compensator/brake with that design will have that problem. And if the company says that it won't, then they may be assuming your rifle isn't accurate enough for you to be able to tell. You also have to have your exit hole large enough to allow consistent bullet clearance, but at the same time have it small enough to cause the gasses to be redirected out the ports.
 
I can make one with symmetrical left and right ports, but without the top ports. You'll get a bit more muzzle flip without them, but your intrinsic accuracy will be a bit better. And it won't blow the ground around. But overall, for accuracy, I love the spiral.
 
I know I can be a pain sometimes, but is there any way you can use a lighter weight material for them and/or thiner bar stock? I like the one on the right of you photo, but Hardend Steel will add aditional weight to the front of the barrel and set the rifle off balance as well as effect barrel wip and accuracy. Most of my AR barrels are free floated and alloy materials. It would push your cost up, but I am sure you could charge 2 1/2 times what you are thinking of charging. a $125.00 price would not be unreasonalble for a supper accurate light weight brake.

Just my 2 cents.
Jim

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=366125
 
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What alloy do you like for that? I did all the "noodle around before the real ones" out of 6061... Which will actually work, and work harden over time, but you definitely would need to use some antiseize and you can forget about keeping any color on it, since even anodizing would flake.

They're also not "solid." There's a sizable cavity inside. I'll weigh a regular flash hider sometime around the 5th, and let you know the difference.
 
Stainless in a thinner profile (0.825) with a larger center chamber would lose some weight and Manganese Phosphate finished to protect against corrosion or rust and match the barrel.

Jim
 
This is what I have on now, it would be nice to change out to your type.


SAM_0354.jpg



SAM_0356.jpg
 
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