Mounting a scope.

C

Chet Punisher

New member
So, I've read a lot about torquing screws to a certain lbs to maintain accuracy... I don't own any torquing tools... How does one do this correctly without those tools? Any suggestions? Any help?
 
I've never used any tools or kits to mount a scope.
If I'm feeling precise, I use a level.

The screws/scope/rings aren't made of glass and you're not trying to torque head bolts either.

Tighten them like you would most any other screw about that size and be happy.

I didn't even know those kits existed and I never thought about the specific torque numbers until I joined a forum.
 
The big thing is making sure that you have to top part level. I just eyeball it. Tighten on side, then tighten the other. You can tighten them pretty good with a normal allen wrench. I use locktite to make sure it doesn't come undone. The concern is bending the scope tube, but that takes some effort to do.

Unless you are shooting long range competitions, just use judgement. That good enough for most people.
 
I've never used any tools or kits to mount a scope.
If I'm feeling precise, I use a level.

The screws/scope/rings aren't made of glass and you're not trying to torque head bolts either.

Tighten them like you would most any other screw about that size and be happy.

I didn't even know those kits existed and I never thought about the specific torque numbers until I joined a forum.
Click to expand...

Don't over think it. As Brian pointed out, a level is about as fancy as you need to go.

I do tighten my screws evenly. That is tighten each one a little, in order, until they are all tight.
 
I don't use any special tools either, but I do use a little dab of purple or blue locktite to make sure they don't shake loose.
 
I just ordered a torque wrench from Graf's for this purpose as well, but also to torque the action screws (experimenting with action screw torque can improve accuracy).

I can't recall where I read it, but I use the allen key with the short "L" side between my thumb and index finger- and torque as tightly as I can with the wrench held that way. As opposed to holding the wrench the other way, this is kind of self-limiting in the amount of torque you can apply and minimizes the risk of stripping the often too-small screws...
 
You really should use the right tools or take it to someone that has the right tools to get the best results. You need more than a torque wrench to do it right.
 
We have the Wheeler scope mounting kit, and ths only thing in it we havent used so far is the 30mm tools. Every thing else has helped us with more consistant scope mounting procedure, theyre only 125.00 and Ive mounted seven or more scope so far and it has worked nicely.
 
I have to agree with the majority here. A torque wrench, nor Wheeler's $125 kit are necessary to properly mount a scope.

A torque wrench is nice for action screws as you are talking 50-60 inch pounds. For the small screws on scope bases and rings, I am guessing 10-15 inch pounds maybe less.

I do use a standard level (magnetic base) to be sure the rifle is level in the "rack" holding it, the bases are level, and finally the scope. Have mounted probably 10-15 scopes using these methods and have never had a problem.
 
OK OK. Not necessary. (unless you're nitpicky... like me!):o

For leveling to the action, I use a set of feeler gauges; stacked up so they barely wedge between the bottom of the scope's turret body (if it's got one) and the rifle's picatinny rail (again, if it's got one). This ensures that the scope and action are truly parallel prior to tightening the rings. Again... nitpicking.
 
IMO you don't need a torque wrench and I've never heared of anyone useing one to mount a scope. Just line up the reticle so it looks straight to you when you mount the rifle and make sure you have the best position back or forward that is comfortable and takes advantage of you scopes eye rielef then tighten down your screws evenly and I would not use loctite on the screws as it could make it very difficult to undo if need be. The old trick is use finger nail polish which will not allow screws to loosen but will allow you to take screws out eaisier if needed.
 
Also look up your brand of rings and bases to find torque specs.
We have collectively shot thousands of rounds through these sxope we have mounted using the Wheeler kit, all rings were properly aligned and lapped and torqued, also we use blue locktite. NEVER any issues with scope
s and their mounts.;)
As for post 13, why wouldn,t you peoperly torque your screws?
And why would you mount a scope Not using Locktite?
Hes the unlucky soul two booths down cussing because his scope has come loose afteronly four rounds..
:rolleyes:
Op dont be that fella, ;)
 
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+1 for Wheeler Fat Wrench. It's cheaper and a lot less frustrating than removing broken screws. As a matter of consistency, screws are equally tightened. And, Locktite.
 
One little thing I've found that I really like when mounting scopes is allen head screws instead of slotted. I HATE boogered up screw heads and with my fat uncoordinated fingers and hands, allen head screws just help me avoid that little pet peeve. And spare the lecture about screwdrivers, I've got good ones.
 
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