slapshot0183
Inactive
what the best scope mounting kit? and whats the best bore sighting system?
mounting a scope ?
- Thread starter slapshot0183
- Start date
Best scope mounting kit: A screw driver and an allen wrench.
Best bore sighting system: Prop your rifle on a bench rest. I use a cardboard box notched to fit the rifle. Remove the bolt. Place a target at 25 yards. Look through the bore. Adjust the rifle until the target is centered in the bore. Adjust the scope until the crosshairs are centered on the target. Shoot. Adjust the scope until the shots hit the center of the target. Back off to 100 yards and shoot. For a typical big game cartridge adjust the scope until you are hitting about 2" high at 100 yards.
If you have a lever action, pump or auto use a small mirror to look through the bore.
That's how my father taught me 50+ years ago and it's what I still do.
Works for me.
George
Best bore sighting system: Prop your rifle on a bench rest. I use a cardboard box notched to fit the rifle. Remove the bolt. Place a target at 25 yards. Look through the bore. Adjust the rifle until the target is centered in the bore. Adjust the scope until the crosshairs are centered on the target. Shoot. Adjust the scope until the shots hit the center of the target. Back off to 100 yards and shoot. For a typical big game cartridge adjust the scope until you are hitting about 2" high at 100 yards.
If you have a lever action, pump or auto use a small mirror to look through the bore.
That's how my father taught me 50+ years ago and it's what I still do.
Works for me.
George
Wrong, the best scope mounting kits are the Sinclair, and Wheeler Engineering. After you use the kit as per instructions, I use this "boresighting method;
1. remove bolt from rifle, unless its a Lever-action, or break-over, in which case it will require a different means of boresighting.
2.Unlike revgo, set up a target at fifty yds,(being on paper at 25 yds doesn't mean being on paper at 100 yds)and get the bullseye lined up with the bore.
3. Remove turret caps and adjust crosshairs to center of bullseye with the bore lined up on the bullseye.
4. Go to the range and place a target at 50 yds, and fire a couple groups of three or four, until satisfied with zero, then move out to 100 yds and "fine -tune" that scope until it's perfect for your intended purpose.
1. remove bolt from rifle, unless its a Lever-action, or break-over, in which case it will require a different means of boresighting.
2.Unlike revgo, set up a target at fifty yds,(being on paper at 25 yds doesn't mean being on paper at 100 yds)and get the bullseye lined up with the bore.
3. Remove turret caps and adjust crosshairs to center of bullseye with the bore lined up on the bullseye.
4. Go to the range and place a target at 50 yds, and fire a couple groups of three or four, until satisfied with zero, then move out to 100 yds and "fine -tune" that scope until it's perfect for your intended purpose.
Just matter of factly....
madcratebuilder
New member
If the rifle allows, bore sighting works very well. I do this in my shop with a target 40ft away. On rifles that you can't bore sight I use a relatively cheap laser bore sight tool.
It's important to check the base alignment if one is used, it should be collamated to the bore centerline. At least check rings with a lapping tool to ensure they are round and have no burrs. If you don't have experience with tightening small screws I would invest in a Wheeler Torque wrench or similar tool.
It's important to check the base alignment if one is used, it should be collamated to the bore centerline. At least check rings with a lapping tool to ensure they are round and have no burrs. If you don't have experience with tightening small screws I would invest in a Wheeler Torque wrench or similar tool.
Clifford L. Hughes
New member
0183Slapshot:
For a bolt action rifle, from my kitchen table, I bore sight on telephone pole insulters.This must be done form inside because if neighbors see you, you would be getting a visit form the police. I then take my rifle to the range and place a large target board, at twenty-five yards, with a quater sized dot on its center. The first shot should hit the target board. Now, move your sights, after each shot, until you hit the dot. Twenty-five yards is where the bullets first cross the sighting plane. Depending on you caliber your rifle should be sighted in for about 300 yards. However, it's imperative that you move your target out to the 100, 200, and 300 yards to fine tune your sighting zeros.
Semper Fi.
Gunnery sergeant
Clifford L. Hughes
USMC Retired
For a bolt action rifle, from my kitchen table, I bore sight on telephone pole insulters.This must be done form inside because if neighbors see you, you would be getting a visit form the police. I then take my rifle to the range and place a large target board, at twenty-five yards, with a quater sized dot on its center. The first shot should hit the target board. Now, move your sights, after each shot, until you hit the dot. Twenty-five yards is where the bullets first cross the sighting plane. Depending on you caliber your rifle should be sighted in for about 300 yards. However, it's imperative that you move your target out to the 100, 200, and 300 yards to fine tune your sighting zeros.
Semper Fi.
Gunnery sergeant
Clifford L. Hughes
USMC Retired
Last edited:
It all depends on the action and how many bullets you want to shoot. As already mentioned, sighting through the bore is an excellent way to get on the paper with bolt actions. For actions where removing the bolt and sighting through the bore is not possible, auto, pumps, and lever actions, I like the SL-100 Mag Laser Boresighter.
When mounting scopes I use Blue Loctite, Wheeler "Fat Wrench" for torquing screws, and ring lapping tools and abrasives. I feel that lapping the rings helps relieve scope tube stress and adds holding power by creating more scope ring surface that contacts the scope.
When mounting scopes I use Blue Loctite, Wheeler "Fat Wrench" for torquing screws, and ring lapping tools and abrasives. I feel that lapping the rings helps relieve scope tube stress and adds holding power by creating more scope ring surface that contacts the scope.
I have done both the look through the bore or a laser bore sighter.
I have found the laser bore sighter to be very fast to get on paper and then fine tune after I get to the range.
In my garage, I will take the bore sighter and insert into the bore and turn it on. I look through the scope and adjust the cross hairs to be coincident with the laser spot and call it good.
I remove the boresighter and reinsert and verify.
I don't need a target anywhere and can use the garage door of my neighbor across the street. I don't fret about the distance as I know I am going to be on paper at 25 yards.
Usually works best in early morning or late afternoon.
I have used it for rifles with and without flash hiders and with the proper washer, for all my handguns.
The only downside is the barrels must be clean and you need a little silicone grease on the o-rings to make sure they don't roll off.
The green laser is a little easier to see than the red one. It is also easier to distinguish if you are bore sighting a red dot sight like Eotech.
Geetarman
I have found the laser bore sighter to be very fast to get on paper and then fine tune after I get to the range.
In my garage, I will take the bore sighter and insert into the bore and turn it on. I look through the scope and adjust the cross hairs to be coincident with the laser spot and call it good.
I remove the boresighter and reinsert and verify.
I don't need a target anywhere and can use the garage door of my neighbor across the street. I don't fret about the distance as I know I am going to be on paper at 25 yards.
Usually works best in early morning or late afternoon.
I have used it for rifles with and without flash hiders and with the proper washer, for all my handguns.
The only downside is the barrels must be clean and you need a little silicone grease on the o-rings to make sure they don't roll off.
The green laser is a little easier to see than the red one. It is also easier to distinguish if you are bore sighting a red dot sight like Eotech.
Geetarman
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
The main difference between me and RevGeo is that I generally center on something out around 100 yards. That's always been good enough to let me use no more than three, maybe four shots to hit dead-on at 25 yards. 50 years? Ah, these newbies!
For most deer rifles, dead-on at 25 yards is within three inches of center at 100; commonly a bit high. If the scope adjustments are decent, two, maybe three groups of three shots each puts the group-center at my usual two inches high at 100.
I commonly tap the scope's adjustment turret with a screwdriver handle--gently--to "settle the adjustment". It doesn't seem to hurt anything, and might even do some good. Seems to have, on some scopes.
I've found that with a semi-auto, it's easy to just mount a scope that has the crosshairs dead centered and shoot a time or two at ten yards and then move on to 25. After that it's a piece of cake, same as for a bolt-action. I'm lazy. And a cheapskate, too.
I'm no help about any sort of mounting kit. I just use whatever screws screws into place. Never had anything shoot loose; never over-tightened and broke a screw. Mainly, avoid, "Aw, just tighten it until you feel it give, and then back off a quarter-turn."
For most deer rifles, dead-on at 25 yards is within three inches of center at 100; commonly a bit high. If the scope adjustments are decent, two, maybe three groups of three shots each puts the group-center at my usual two inches high at 100.
I commonly tap the scope's adjustment turret with a screwdriver handle--gently--to "settle the adjustment". It doesn't seem to hurt anything, and might even do some good. Seems to have, on some scopes.
I've found that with a semi-auto, it's easy to just mount a scope that has the crosshairs dead centered and shoot a time or two at ten yards and then move on to 25. After that it's a piece of cake, same as for a bolt-action. I'm lazy. And a cheapskate, too.
I'm no help about any sort of mounting kit. I just use whatever screws screws into place. Never had anything shoot loose; never over-tightened and broke a screw. Mainly, avoid, "Aw, just tighten it until you feel it give, and then back off a quarter-turn."