Most important 1911 mods

K

Kermit

New member
Well, I'm starting my project. I have a 1991a1 stainless that is about to go to the smith for some much needed work.
1st I'm having trigger done...Having aluminum trigger put on and trigger job to get trigger to 2 1/2 #'s.
2nd having a beavertail put on to eliminate the "bite" I have been suffering. In turn, having a commander hammer installed.
My question is this...after these mods, are there any more NEEDS that have to be addressed, or are the rest of the mods more frills? ie...magwell, extended slide release, ambi thumb safety, stippling(sp) front strap, new sights etc...
Thanks guys :)
 
Only if you need them. Better sights if necessary. I always like to bevel the mag well. It helps reloads, and doesn't add parts to the gun. Abbi safety if you shoot left-handed. Stay away from extended slide locks. If you want a better grip on the front strap, either go with PacMayr rubber grips, skateboard tape. or a checkered cover from Wilson. If you have the cash, have it checkered or stippled.

Depending on what you're going to use it for, the less you do to it, the better. If you don't really need it, it's a frill.

I do question the 2 1/2 lb trigger. Thats AWFULLY light for most applications.
 
A lot of unnecessary crap gets added onto 1911's, I think mainly just because it can be.

I think good modifications include:
-- trigger work, if the gun needs it
-- Beavertail safety -- if they arent too big or too beavertailed.
-- Better sites if your gun just has mil-spec sights.

Examples of stuff I think is crap:
-- serrations on the front of the slide.
-- big safety levers -- they just make the gun more likely to snag
-- ambi safeties, unless you are left handed
-- "reliability packages" on guns that have fired 200 or more rounds without a failure.
-- Full length guide rods

I am on the fence as to whether checkered frontstraps are really useful. They do feel kind of nice if done right though, but I am not sure they add much in practical terms.
 
Ever have a wet hand? Ever have your hand bloodied? Try it once with a 1911 fronstrap and see how much your hand moves.

Worst case scenerio, your hand is cut badly in a defensive situation. Suddenly, that 20 lpi checkering gives you a grip that you are very thankful for.

Ask any SF operator on their feeling of 20 lpi checkering. You'll change your mind fast once you go through the drill.

Back to the original question:

If you're replacing the plastic trigger, you're doing so because of asthetics. You can still get a clean trigger pull with the stock trigger. It's a matter of having a competent smith do the trigger job. A bit of overtravel is normal in a 1911, however anything beyond 1/8" is excessive.

From the previous post, the tiny sights bother you. Get a decent set of Heinie or Novaks and that'll alleviate that problem.

If you're having hammer bites, you can replace the stock hammer with a commander hammer. If you want to ante a bit more, a Wilson Ultra Light or CS hammer is very nice.

I'm assuming this strictly a range gun because you state a 2.5 lb trigger pull. If that's the case, I wouldn't make any other mods.

If it's going to be a carry gun, a 2.5 lb trigger pull is not recommended. 3.5-4 lb is much wiser. Lastly, if it's a carry gun, red locktite the plunger tube.

Like lonegunman stated, a reliability package is worthless unless your gun is constantly malfunctioning.

If your gun is shooting just fine with the factory mags, don't bother buying Wilsons, Shooting Stars, Mecgars, etc. aftermarket mags.

If it ain't broke, Don't fix it!
 
The most important thing in any firearm is reliability. It has to work each and every time you want it to. So, if your gun is working fine with the ammunition of your choice and without a hiccup, I wouldn't modify any of the internals (extractor, ejector, feed ramp, breechface, link, etc.).

For myself, the next most important thing is a good trigger and this is followed by good sights. You gotta see what you want to hit. The final modification I'd go for is ambidextrious safeties (since I'm a southpaw).
 
Assuming the gun is already reliable and accurate enough for me, the most important mods for me are:
1. Beavertail grip safety (and the concomittant Commander hammer)---without it, I get serious hammer bite after about 50 rounds.
2. Slightly-extended thumb safety--while not an absolute necessity, I like being able to rest my thumb on the safety while I shoot as it reassures me that in a stressful situation I won't forget to take off the safety.
3. High profile fixed sights (Novaks are my favorites).
 
Yes, it will be primarily a range gun. Thanks for the feedback. I'm getting excited I have this baby...again. Well spent 3-4 weeks if it comes back the way I anticipate.
:cool:
Oh, the mainspring housing. I'm on the fence about it. The plastic one seems ok, but I would prefer an arched metal one instead...serve any true function (ie. higher more secure grip, grip fitting palm better?) or another frill?
:confused:
 
It's strictly a feel thing with the arched mainspring housing. However, that could translate into improved shooting if it makes your grip that much more comfortable.
 
If you have a sharply checkered set of grips and a checkered mainspring housing, you really don't need a checkered front strap. But just for kicks I tried some smooth slab grips and a plastic flat MSH once, and man! what a wet bar of soap! :eek:

For me, a polished feed ramp, tuned extractor, dimpled slide stop, and smooth trigger is all a 1911 needs. I can even live with the old GI sights!
 
i still think accuracy is impotant.

this is why.
my sistema doesnt print groups at 25 yards.
it punches holes at random positions in the paper.
i think a combat weapon should do 3-4 inches at least at 25 yards.
now its not me(i hope) i could print 2 to 3 inch groups off hand at 25 yards with my wilson.
seeing i have a true 1911a1 colt (for the most part) heres what i now think are important to me...

all around reliability (polish feed ramp, action work, extend and flute ejection port, tune extractor, etc...).
sights (wilson, mmc, heinie, etc...)
accuracy work (at least shoot 3-4 inches damn it!).
bevel mag well
wilson mags

stuff that i like but is not absolutely needed(but i would not carry without):

bevel on grip safety and thumb safety( i get grip bite not hammer...)
extended thumb safety (ambi)
checkered or skateboard tape front strap
trigger job

stuff i like and is not needed at all:

polished blueing
beavertail
commander hammer
slide to frame tightening
full bevel
custom grips
serrate rear of slide
wolff springs(this is debatable if it is this section or the one above)
high cut front strap

k.s.
 
Blades...if you're happy w/ your Sig, GREAT. Me, I couldn't find a buyer fast enough. What a headache it was. :barf:
Now, my project gun is at the gunsmith's. Getting aluminum trigger, trigger job, new ejector, sear, sear spring, hammer, hammer spring, and beavertail. The smith is local, but I spoke to a lot of his references and had a chance to check out some of his work. Very good to excellent work, a fair price, and local...and VERY busy with work, which told me his talents are in demand at least locally..:cool: :D
This is an aspect of shooting I didn't know existed. This is kinda cool taking a gun from base to semi-custom. I guess it's apart of evolving w/in the sport.
 
Sights & trigger!

Your trigger is a little light. You may want 4-4.5 pounds.

Your sights should be night sights as you do not get to pick the lightning conditions of the fight. Like Polynikes said, whoever guaranteed you would be able to see is a fool. I prefer the Novak sights as they let a lot of light in around them.

Polish and throat that feedway all over. You may not get to pick the ammo you shoot. Ensure it feeds everything.

I prefer a hardy extractor to avoid Type III mals. An gun that throws brass into next county is double plus good.

Run your hand over the weapon. Any sharp points? Take care of those.

I have serrations up front to assist in press check. Not needed? Yeah, maybe. But what if hands covered in sweat or blood? Slippery when wet.

For grip, I prefer slim stocks, checked frontstrap, and a flat mainspring. All hands are the same but different.

Ambi safety? At one time, I liked because of mirror image rule. However, I have gotten really fast with my left and I have seen ambi safety turn itself off in an IWB from sitting and standing a lot.

I do not like, Sam I am:

1. hubcap-size mag release;
2. mag wells;
3. big safeties like a shelf;
4. extended slide stops;
5. guide rods;
6. lasers;
7. or phasers.

The more you train, the less stuff you will have on gun. However, if you are thick-headed like me, it will take time to get the word.
 
Man, a 2.5lb trigger job is a bit nuts. I'd prefer a well-done 5lb trigger job myself. To each their own.

My votes are:

RELIABILITY. If the gun has it, leave it alone. If it doesn't, then make it reliable or get a new one before you play with anything else.

NO HAMMER BITE. If the gun bites you, make it stop. You don't necessarily need a beavertail to do this but it will fix the problem.

TRIGGER. Get a trigger job. 4-5lbs for carry, less if you just want to punch holes in paper. But even for goofing on the range, lighter isn't always better... "better" is better. Superlight triggers drive me bonkers.

SIGHTS. Either Novaks or Heinie Slant-Pros.

After that it's gravy, I'd say extended thumb safety (Wilson Combat's tactical thumb safety is just long enough to make it easier to use without being snag-prone), beavertail, full length steel guide rod & Wolff spring, Bar-Sto match barrel fitted. I'll go against the grain and say a FLGR is better than the original setup, subjectively it seems to make the action feel "smoother" but beyond that I'm not claiming any huge magic benefits.
 
I've got my '91A1 project gun at the 'smith right now. He's installing Heinie sights, tightening the slide-to-frame (more because everyone who handles the gun will check it, as opposed to its being really necessary), and doing the little flute at the back of the ejection port. I've already fitted a lightweight trigger, SVI hammer/sear/disconnector (~5#) and ambi safety. Still to do: internal polishing, light external bevelling, extractor, and maybe a barrel. The factory lock-up was really pretty good, so I'll shoot it some to see if a new barrel is necessary. The last item will be modifying the grip safety and hammer spur a la Gunsite Cooper 80. Most of what I'm doing is directed at long-term reliability and durability, but some of it is also just because it's what I like.
 
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