I have a Mossberg 500 with 2 barrels one rifled one smooth. I "pinned" the rifled barrel to the crap aluminum receiver. I used two 8-34 stainless machine bolts and a tap (homedepot had it all). I attached the rifled barrel to the gun and locked it down with the set bolt knob as tight as I could with channel locks without breaking the set bolt.
I then JB weld epoxies a weaver scope base to the receiver and got extra long scope base (6x48) screws from brownells and jb welded those in too on the receiver treads and bolted it down until dry. You will have to grind the screws down a bit for clearance and don't screw that part up. Once the jb weld dries your done for EVER! I did that because I heard that the recoil will at some point rip the screws out of the aluminum receiver though I have never known anyone this happened to.. I then drilled my first "pin" screw hole down through the scope base, receiver, and barrel lug/sleeve for the top pin. Then on the side of the receiver I drilled another hole through the receiver and into the barrel lug again. Lastly, remove the barrel and taped treads on the BARREL lug ONLY and ream out the receiver holes just a little bit so you have a tiny bit of wiggle room when you put the barrel back on again. If you tap the barrel lugs the steel is so hard I broke a tap off the second I tried to turn it at first. Pain in the butt to get the tap out!!!! So oil the tap and take out just one chip of thread at a time and then back out the tap wipe off the chip and go at it again. It took me an hour to tap both holes that is how hard the steal is.
Alternatively I could have just jb welded the barrel to the receiver instead and it would have held for longer than I will be alive I am sure but I wanted to be able to replace the barrel easy if I ever needed to so... After doing all of this I have a Mossberg 500 without the cantilever base that I HATE that will shoot as good as a rifle at 100 yards. I am so happy I did this and didn't spend the $180 on the cantilever barrel. I was going to buy the Savage 220 bolt action but now I don't have to. One ragged hole at 100yrds is as good as it gets. Only 1 of my hunting rifles can do that and I have a few lol!
JV
I then JB weld epoxies a weaver scope base to the receiver and got extra long scope base (6x48) screws from brownells and jb welded those in too on the receiver treads and bolted it down until dry. You will have to grind the screws down a bit for clearance and don't screw that part up. Once the jb weld dries your done for EVER! I did that because I heard that the recoil will at some point rip the screws out of the aluminum receiver though I have never known anyone this happened to.. I then drilled my first "pin" screw hole down through the scope base, receiver, and barrel lug/sleeve for the top pin. Then on the side of the receiver I drilled another hole through the receiver and into the barrel lug again. Lastly, remove the barrel and taped treads on the BARREL lug ONLY and ream out the receiver holes just a little bit so you have a tiny bit of wiggle room when you put the barrel back on again. If you tap the barrel lugs the steel is so hard I broke a tap off the second I tried to turn it at first. Pain in the butt to get the tap out!!!! So oil the tap and take out just one chip of thread at a time and then back out the tap wipe off the chip and go at it again. It took me an hour to tap both holes that is how hard the steal is. Alternatively I could have just jb welded the barrel to the receiver instead and it would have held for longer than I will be alive I am sure but I wanted to be able to replace the barrel easy if I ever needed to so... After doing all of this I have a Mossberg 500 without the cantilever base that I HATE that will shoot as good as a rifle at 100 yards. I am so happy I did this and didn't spend the $180 on the cantilever barrel. I was going to buy the Savage 220 bolt action but now I don't have to. One ragged hole at 100yrds is as good as it gets. Only 1 of my hunting rifles can do that and I have a few lol!
JV
