Mosin Nagant Cleaning Tips?

REC510

New member
No disrespect to robmkivseries70 who was already suggesting cleaning tips for a Mosin Nagant, but I was wondering what tips anyone out there might have for cleaning a Mosin Nagant rifle which I purchased this weekend. I have heard some things elsewhere that just sound absolutely crazy such as putting the stock in the dishwasher and poring boiling water down the bore, and was wondering if anyone had any different, (more sane), cleaning tips, or if these actually work without doing damage?

My rifle doesn't really have a horrendous amount of cosmoline filling every crevice like some people describe, but when field stripped it is obvious it has some very oily places. Any tips on how to clean the bolt, stock , barrel, etc., (all the separate pieces), would be GREATLY appreciated. I am anxious to get to the range with my new gun!:D:D:D
 
its fairly easy to break down and clean. there are videos you can watch. i have always used hot water down the barrel after shooting to remove corrosive residue. one that i just purchased i would break down and clean it with ( whatever you prefer) , i would learn to break down the bolt if i were you so it can be thoroughly cleaned. its easier than it looks. clean the barrel well, that way you can see what exactly you have. sitting in the hot sun always gets cosmoline off stocks, then just normal cleaning, remembering to use water to remove corrosive residue before normal cleaning. i use a 20ga. shotgun brush and a drill to clean the chamber. it is very effective and will need to be done time to time. i have never used boiling water and ive never had a rusty mosin nagant. just hot water is ok. cold would probably work. :)
 
Put the bayonet on it, stick it in the dirt, and then pour hot soapy water down it. Give it a couple sprays with windex, then flush it with water at room temperature. Then dry it off with a clean rag and proceed to clean it the same way you would any other rifle, I also run a few patches Hopps 9 bore solvent down the barrel.

Make sure you take the bolt apart and clean it the same way, but put it on the cement. Clean it the same way, even if it doesn't look dirty.


PS- obviously take the stock off :)

PPS- you could also just go to the range and shoot it, then clean it when you get back, but at least get the majority of it before you shoot it. The hot soapy water, bore solvent, and windex is just to take care of the corrosive ammo.
 
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I still have stuff stuck in my MN barrel after using brake cleaner, carb cleaner, various gun solvents, and boiling water.
 
best thing i have found to remove cosmoline is gasoline and a brass brush.

after shooting corrosive ammo squirt some Windex with ammonia down the bore, it will break down the corrosive compounds, ten clean normally.
 
I have several vintage guns and have cleaned them all hundreds of times. Just when I think I won't have anymore cosmoline to deal with, shooting in warm weather brings it out again. I haven't done any of the fancy stuff, just break it all the way down and clean each part as best you can until you are comfortable. I use just standard cleaning supplies, Hoppes #9 and Remington's new stuff, action cleaner, bore bright, and so forth. Lots and lots of it.
 
Yup, nothing seems to clear out cosmoline like gasoline. Just remember, nothing seems to go boom as easily as gasoline, save nitro.
 
What and how I use to clean cosmoline out of mil surplus rifles.

I like using a tea kettle and hoppe's elite bore gel or number 9, lots of bore snaking, brushing, cussing, and a few beers to help the owner along.

I have found that a proper size copper bore brush on a mil surp cleaning rod chucked into a drill with hoppe's elite bore gel works great. For dark crud in the rifling, use kano kroil for 1 hr and flush some WD-40 to use its solvent carrier to clean like a solvent should.

Then brush the heck out of it. Then do it again. Then one final time, then bore snaking it a few times and inspect with a bright white light.

To execute the above:
several kettles of boiling water rifle assembled. then dissemble and repeat where necessary.

Next obtain Koril oil which is high in benzine thus cutting through suck on cosmoline and gunk. I then follow by hoppe's elite bore gel(Or number 9)This combination will help remove the crud like no body's business.

Kroil is a legendary penetrating oil for stuck bolts. good stuff to have around, Kano Koril.

Use several passes with patches soaked through with Kroil. Then give a good squirt or 2 more down the bore. Go enjoy the game(FIFA RULES), come back and scrub hoppe's elite bore gel(wall mart carries it) a brass brush you never wish to use again and chuck the rod in the drill and go nice and slow while cussing to find your still not there yet.

Drink some malted beverages of your favorite and continue using 3 bore snake passes to see what it looks like. Then drink a few more while you repeat. Once patches start to come out clean, then oil as your like.

For range cleaning using known or suspected corrosive ammo, Windex down the bore after firing, while still hot seems to remove gunk pretty well. The object is to dissolve and neutralize the corrosive salts.

If you use straight household ammonia be aware of not cleaning the ammonia out of the bore as it will cause nasty rust if mixed too strong for too long.

Ed's Red works like magic on everything, so that gets a nod as well.

For range cleaning Windex works great, and doesn't usually contain enough ammonia to accelerate rusting like the household strength does, but still should be followed by at least a vigorous bore snaking or WD-40(Or your choice water displacing substitute). It is still a possibility, so bear that in mind.

http://age-web.age.uiuc.edu/bee/RESEARCH/corrosion/nh3-1.htm

For the stocks, I have found that a trash bag with strategically placed coat hanger to keep the bag from contacting the stock placed out back on a hot summers day or two will get quite a bit. Hair driers/ heat guns help, but slowly and not full tilt heat for long periods of time. The trunk wrapped in old towel of a black car works great too, but your car will smell funny for a few days.

The tea kettle method for me is the best thing since sliced bread. Heat up a cup for your self, the rest goes to the mil surp in question. Bring it to a whistle, then pour down the barrel, on the barrel, put the bolt in the sink an face down and pour it for a bit, then flip face up and pour pour pour away(I brace Mosin bolts with coffee cups) and pour it all over leaving it pin down over paper towels to collect any stray grease.

I typically get 70-95% of the gunk out by following my methods on the first try. Your mileage may vary.

Sorry for being long-winded and on the off chance nonsensical, its late and I'm heading to bed.

Hope this helps you with your question to find safer methods. I deem most of these to be safe if Google is your friend you will find lots of suggestions to tackle this problem:D.

-Bill
 
Thanks for the "Honorable Mention" :cool: WD-40 does a good job on cosmoline. I will stand by the hot water and dish soap for the corrosive salts from firing. Be sure to rinse the cleaning rod and brush so the salt isn't transferred to another rifle or back to the one you just cleaned. WD-40 on the stock is no problem for wiping down the cosmoline.
Best,
Rob
 
Ready to shoot

Thank you to everyone who contributed, I will definitely put some of these methods to good use. Just in case any Mosin genius out there knows the answer to this I'll ask it...I have a Mosin stamped 1929 with the pre-1928 Tula symbol, (star surrounded by five dots), why would this be?:confused:
 
The most environmentally toxic Brake Cleaner on all the metal parts, down the barrel especially.

Easy Off Oven Cleaner on the stock.

Of course this is after you take it all apart (a five minute operation).

Then liberally spray WD40 over all the metal parts and swab the bore with it, followed by a good application of RemOil on the metal parts.

With your stock dry after you rinse off the oven cleaner gunk, rub a couple of coats of Tru-Oil on the wood and put it all back together. You'll have a nice $70 speciman of soviet Russia's best engineering and fine machining.
 
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