More GP100 Sp101 Disassembly

M

mec

New member
A subject that comes up fairly often. Anybody finding these useful should right-click and copy and feel free to use them without attribution or fear of retribution:
Rugerdis1.jpg


rugerdis2.jpg


rugerdis3a.jpg


rugerdis4.jpg


gp100cylinder.jpg


The GP100 and SP101 are prime choices for gun people who fancy themselves as Ultra-Practical. They are also to be recommended to the vast population of non-gun enthusiasts who ask advice about home defense-concealed carry weapons
 
I appreciate that though I actually got the artwork from a highly tempermental gay albino dwarf who never learned to accept suggestions.
 
Mike - I meant no disrespect, sir.

If you're interested in hearing my idea, please email me: thebluesman at thefiringline dot com.

Thanks,

-Dave
 
Sorry about that, I've been watching wierd movies with some liberals and it just got the best of me. E-mail sent.
 
Your high-contrast photos with a white background work out spectacularly well for web applications. Congratulations and thanks from the hobby-smith community. Do you plan to do other guns in the future?

Clemson
 
I'll put the smith and wesson stuff on here too. Used a different font for it. A lot of people didn't like my arts and croussants Canterbury Font. One guy on another board used the Ruger pictures to take apart his trigger/ action module and reports success.

The main bugger on these Rugers is launching springs and pawls and then trying to find them. On my GP and SP, the one that drives the hand is the most likely to launch. If you put the trigger return-module latch spring and plunger in first, it helps retain the hand spring assembly. Otherwise, every time it moves forward..."sproingggg."
 
Great work! I only took my GP100 apart once and found it to be not quite as easy as the owner's manual would suggest and definitely not as easy as some of the reviews of the gun which claim that the gun "literally falls apart in your hands." I wish I had your info when I did take it apart. Not having it, I chased a spring or two around the house but it was no big problem. I suspect that the person who implied that improvements could be made to your instructions might have been referring to the font. It's a little difficlut to read. Thanks much. I saved it to my PC.

This is my first post here. Great forum!
 
I seem to have gotten myself into a jam and was hoping someone from this thread can help out. I've disassembled my gp-100 and taken the cylinder assembly apart with no problems. However after re-installing the plunger/spring assembly and ejector rod I cannot get the through pin back in place, is there a secret?

Thanks in advance everyone. Oh and after lurking for far to long I broke down and joined. This is my first post.
 
There is a plunger in the hole on top of the crane. Take a very thin rod and push it down into the that hole to compress the plunger far enough to get the through pin back in place.

You need a thin rod, because if it's thick it will obstruct the through pin.

If you tapped out the through pin without depressing the plunger you probably wrecked the plunger. It should practically fall out once the plunger is depressed and should push back into place with virtually no resistance if the plunger is properly depressed.

mec,

You might want to change the instructions to remove the reference to "tapping out" the through pin. No tapping should be necessary if the plunger is properly depressed.
 
Good deal!

That's a neat little gun, but if you don't strip it every so often and clean the carbon off the axle where the cylinder spins on the crane, the trigger pull gets nasty.

Other than size, this is one of the major differences between the GP100 and the SP101. The GP100 has two ball bearings that the cylinder spins on which makes it a bit more tolerant of carbon fouling on the axle. The SP101 spins on the axle without the benefit of the ball bearings.
 
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