More 223 problems

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cervri

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I purchased 100 rnds of used brass. FL sized and trimmed it yesterday, it was already deprimed. So this morning I go out to the shop to start loading. Right off the bat I had problems seating primers..CCi Small Rifle Primers...Cases are mixed and include Perfecta,LC, and Winchester. In looking at the cases, some do not look perfectly round. Some almost look square. Is this just a bad bunch of brass or what? The primers just do not want to seat, crushed a couple..:confused:
 

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Sounds like there is a primer crimp on at lease some of he cases. If you don't have a primer pocket tool, you can use you chamfer debur tool to remove the crimp. I ended up buying a Lyman primer pocket tool. Worth every penny of the $15 or so I paid for it.
 
If you buy a RCBS swager, you may have to make a coupler of sorts so it will work on some of the single stage presses. The coupler is a piece of short copper tubing that fits over the ram area and machining ridges to accomodate the RCBS tool. I'm not sure, but I think the Lee Classic Cast might be the only one for sure but unsure about other single stage presses. You tube has it somewhere.
If you buy a pocket uniformer, it won't insert into the pocket until the pocket has been swaged on many of the cases.
There are some all in one swagers that look decent and work well but cost more. Others might offer some inside info on which one to avoid or jump at.
 
I got primers in 34 out of 104 cases...there is a large variety of brands in the bunch. Some i had no idea,,Winchester, Speer, Perfecta. and LC where the ones i could read...I think I may have a small primer pocket cleaner, I'll check. Thanks for all the leads.
 
The Dillon tool is a nice one.
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/3086

Don't lose the parts for the 308 brass when doing 223 brass, and vice versa.

I milled a slot in a board, but the other parts in the slot, and then screwed the tool to the board. I clamp the board to the bench when using it. This way the tool does not wiggle and the parts do not get lost.
 

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I have never had my Lyman not.go into aNY primer pocket in many many cases. It is posible though, if that w er e to happen I have a chamfer debur tool that would cure it in a couple of twists. I chuck the screw in insert of my Lyman onto a drill press set to low speed and can remove crimps as fast as I can feed them. By hand worked the first day then hands were so cramped up, with lots of mil surp brass yet to go something had to give, thus the Lyman was purchased because it was the only one the store had on the wall.
 
I too suggest you "de-crimp" all the primer pockets. Won't hurt anything if you do the commercil brass too. As a lifelong machinist/mechanic the first time I ran across military brass w/crimped primers I immediately thought of a countersink. I already had a half dozen in my tool box so I did a few by hand (about 1/2 second each) and when I had a lot of brass to de-crimp, I just put the countersink in my hand drill or power screwdriver. It isn't necessary to remove a lot of metal and even when I purposely removed a lot (mebbe .030" too deep) none of the primers "leaked" on my 7.62x51 brass...

Countersinks are available at most hardware stores, inexpensively, but I usually get my machine tooling here; http://www.mcmaster.com/#countersinks/=12zam0q
 
I have to go with a primer crimp also,
Keep in mind that not all primer tools line the primer pocket up with the primer you are trying to install.

Many will allow the primer to misalign with the brass,
Or the brass to misalign with the primer.
 
I use the RCBS primer crimp remover and chuck just the bit, into a Dewalt drill and hit each pocket. It only takes a second per case. I use it on all of my cases that I'm loading the first time.

The tool not only removes the crimp but it bevels the opening of the pocket and allows the primer to seat with less stress.
 
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