Mold performance

D

Doc Hoy

New member
Fellas,

As perhaps you know, I cast my own bullets. I use only round balls.

I cast with both Lee and Lyman/Ideal molds. I have included photos of balls from two of my molds (Lyman .454 and Lee .454).

Here is what I have noted. If you look at the photo entitled LymanBullets you will notice that the sprew is quite large. It is clearly visible and indeed when I examine the mold I note that the opening of the mold is made in such a way as to create a slightly elongated sprew. Taking a look at the other photo you will note that the sprew is much smaller. The Lee mold is designed with a much sharper opening. Indeed it appears that the mold is designed such that the sprew cutter actually shaves the sprew just slightly below a point that would be tangent to the sphere of the ball.

Both of these molds are in good shape including the sprew cutter spring washer and tightness. In the words of the "Kid" in "Unforgiven" "It ain't bent."

When I measured the balls, I got an average diameter of .4555. The Lee balls have a diameter which averages .4542. Perhaps, also, you recall that I made a set of spring loaded mold handles for my Lyman and Ideal molds which improves the diametric consistency of the bullets. I have not made similar handles for my Lee molds because you can't get the mold off of the handles unless you drill the blind side of the mold so the pin can be driven out. So I just hold the molds closed very tightly with hand pressure. This produces a more consistent ball with MUCH less flash and one which is closer in diameter to the size that is marked on the mold. (If I don't do this, I have a Lee .454 mold which makes .457 bullets when it heats up.)

Trust me. I am about to make my point:

Lee molds go for about twenty bucks a piece. Lyman molds and handles can be two to three times that price. My Lee molds, at least in this comparison make a ball that is closer to the stamped size with a smaller sprew. They appear to be no more or less consistent in size. Perhaps the aluminum mold will wear out quicker than the steel mold but after a bout a thousand castings in both of these molds I don't see a nickels worth of difference in the wear they have undergone.

Apart from personal preference is there any reason to stay away from Lee molds?

Tnx,
 

Attachments

  • LeeBullets.jpg
    LeeBullets.jpg
    156.6 KB · Views: 67
  • LymanBullets.jpg
    LymanBullets.jpg
    212.5 KB · Views: 62
Doc there's no reason in the World to stay away from Lee Molds ... they Rock.
If the break they will repair or replace them...they are known as a Spruless (basically) mold. My .451 Lee mold measures .452", .457" mold is .457"... I like um, have had a couple of these molds more than 25 years...
Nuttin' wrong with Lee as far as I know.
:O)
 
Well, I forgot sumpin

SG,

Thanks.

I forgot to mention that I am not wild about the compression washer and stud that holds the two handle pieces together on a Lee mold. I had one of these let go and the two pieces came apart in the middle of a casting session. Without thinking what I was doing, I picked up the stud with my unprotected fingers. You better believe, after I took my finger tips out of my mouth, I suggested some new expressions for that stud. I replaced the hardware with a screw and lock nut. I had to make a special deal because the holes in the handles are quite large (about 3/8) and I didn't want to go with such a large screw. I machined the end of the stud down (after it cooled off) and threaded the end for a quarter twenty lock nut.

But I am with you. I sure do like the looks of my Lyman molds but I simply can not think of a functional reason for avoiding Lee.
 
I see no reason to choose lyman over lee. I have molds in RCBS, Lyman, and Lee. They all work well and the lee seems to be easier to use due to their aluminum construction. They heat and cool quicker and cast as accurately as the others. If lee made the same moulds that I have in lyman and rcbs, I would use the lee.
 
I've got a Lee mold that's 40 years old and still makes good balls. Most of my molds are Lee.
 
There are a lot of molds available from different makers at different prices. How fats your wallet?

I have a few original "gang" molds from several of the St. Louis Shot Towers of the early 1800's. The ones that where taken care of still make good bars now as they did in their day. I use to sell the lead bars at rendezvous cast from original molds. These molds where made from different materials; brass, bronze, iron and steel. I have always kept them clean and stored in a dry place when not in use.

Bottom line is if you take care of your Lee mold it will last as long as you want to use it. Usually the ones that have negative remarks did not take care of the mold and thus had bad experiences, just like anything else they screwed up.
 
I too use the Lee molds but I tend to tear the sprue opening in the top of the mold so that it begins to open up and creates a rough spot on the side of the sprue area. One suggestion has been that I have gotten some dirty lead and have had some dross that cuts the aluminum.
Honest, I flux a lot!
 
As Ronald Reagan always said, "Well...."

NOZ

I am not a metalurgist so my response here will be completely unscientific. I run my pot wide open to make the lead as hot as it will get. I use bullet lube for flux. I take slag off of the top of the molten lead about every fifth casting. I pull from the top rather than from the bottom and I don't stir the lead. I know there are those who think that those two last techniues are wrong.

I try to get my speed up to the point where I am knocking the sprew cutter out of the way as soon as the overflow begins to take on that dull coloring. When I do it this way, the (I will call it) damage to the ball is minimal. If I let the overflow get completely dull, I get a bad casting because of exactly the situation you are describing.

I have been fooling with my mold technique to try to get more consistency from the bullets in terms of size. By working on speed, hand pressure on the mold (including the use of the spring loaded handles) and heat, I have cut the standard deviation in ball size (measuring the diameter of the ball.) in half. It is better than I measured in a box of Hornady .451s. And I can easily get as good consistency from my Lee molds as from the Lyman or Ideal molds.

The one thing I am completely uncertain of is the alloy I am using. I started out with ballast lead from U.S. Navy ships which I was told was pure. But I'm getting slightly lower bullet weights than the Lyman Handbook lists. I can think of only two reasons for that. 1) My scale is hosed. 2) I am not using pure lead.

I am at work now and can not remember how far off the weight is. It is not much, but it has me a little concerned. The Lyman Handbook lists a .451 round ball as having a weight of 135 grains. I think mine are running right at 131 but can't remember for sure. The .454s weigh in at 136 if I remember right. But here is something tht really does not compute. The handbook lists .457s as weighing 185. I think that is an error.
 
I don't flux that often, I pour from the bottom and I let my mold set a little longer than you. Based on that we should not be getting the same results. I'll do a run next week and try fluxing more and dumping quicker and see what happens.
 
I forgot to mention that I am not wild about the compression washer and stud that holds the two handle pieces together on a Lee mold
Click to expand...

I never saw a set of Lee handles like that. All of mine including one thats 40 years old have a bolt and lock nut.
I dip my lead and cut the sprue as soon as it hardens.
 
Yup

I agree Hawg. The ones with the stud and the nut are fine. I had two with the washerframus. One I replaced with a stud like is on my others, the other one I sold on ebay. No longer needed the caliber of ball it made.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top