Model 10 Barrel Swap

T

ThomasT

New member
I have a model 10-5 with a 6" barrel. The barrel is pinned in the frame. I have located a 4" barrel for it and would like some advise about how to best go about swapping out the barrels.

Whats the best tool for tapping out the locking pin? Whats the best way to hold the frame and what tools do I need to grip the barrel to remove it and screw the new barrel in? If this is a job best done by a gunsmith please say so.

Thanks in advance.:)
 
Is the new barrel of the same generation? Straight threads or tapered? Does the new barrel have a slot for the pin (if new it shouldnt). In order to avoid bending the frame, you should have a revolver frame wrench with the proper insert (Brownells will gladly sell you one). Do you have a lathe to fit the barrel if needed? Do you have a facing tool to set B/C gap? Most older guns are not plug n play, they require a certian amount of knowledge and tools to work on them. Not impossibly difficult, but you do need the tools.

Or take it to a gunsmith who knows revolvers (getting pretty thin out there these days).
 
To change the barrel and do a proper job and do it without damaging your frame you'll need the following tools.
They can be bought from Brownell's.
Bring a loaded wallet and hold your breath on the cost.
This is why the best advice is to have a professional pistolsmith do the job.
The tools will cost FAR more then the job by a pro......

Revolver frame wrench with polymer inserts that are made for the S&W "K" frame.
(Do the old gag of sticking a piece of wood through the frame window..... kiss your frame good by, it'll often crack under the barrel threads where it's very thin, or the frame will bend)

Barrel vise setup to clamp the barrel.
This can be made by routing and glass bedding grooves in two hard wood blocks and using a large shop vise.

Cup ended pin punch to push out the barrel pin without dinking up the end.

Lathe or bench top cutting fixture to turn down the barrel shoulder so the barrel will align with the front sight at 12:00 o'clock top-dead-center.
(Barrels don't just screw in with the proper torque and the front sight aligned. Barrels are not just a fancy piece of threaded pipe).

Special cutting device that works down the barrel to cut the rear of the barrel square and so the proper barrel-cylinder gap is set.

Special cutter head for the above tool used to re-cut the critical forcing cone in the rear of the barrel.
(This is far more then just a funnel that can be eyeballed).

Special brass lapping plug and fine valve grinding compound used with the above tools to lap the forcing cone.

Special plug gauge used to gauge the forcing cone for proper dimensions.
(Critical..... get it wrong and the gun spits bullet metal or is inaccurate).

Best advice.......
Unless you're going to be doing a number of rebarreling jobs as a hobby or a business, or you don't mind ruining a good gun, have a pro do it.
Pros to do it at a reasonable price are...

The S&W factory.
Frank Glenn.....

http://glenncustom.com/
 
Thanks guys. You folks gave me the answer I suspected I would get and that is to let a pro do the job. I did watch a YT video of a guy who did his own swap on a Colt and made up my mind right then that its not a job I want to take on.

I may go ahead and buy the barrel but I think I will keep a watch out for a 4" model 10 with skinny barrel. I have a 4" heavy barreled model 10 already so its not a gun I just have to have. Just a want.

Thanks again.:)
 
Frank Glenn I looked at you website yoou linked to and the picture of you in your machine shop sure brought back some memories for me. I grew up working in my dads machine shop from age 10 to age 24 or there abouts.

I spents my summer vacations operating tapping machines, lathes and mills making parts for add on under dash AC kits. It was fun but after doing it for so long I finally got my fill. But I sure would like to have a small engine lathe and vertical mill to use.
 
What Dfariswheel suggested:

Regular pin punch (straight, no taper) to drive out the old pin.
As suggested, a revolver wrench with the right inserts so you don't tweak your frame.
Barrel blocks (this can be made from wood and resin for grip) mounted in a vise.
Drill rod (snug fit to support the barrel from collapsing.

Two things to keep in mind: barrel/cylinder gap when you're done and front sight. Is it timed correctly at 12 o'clock.

BTW, you could take a NRA summer gunsmithing class. Call the school first to make sure they have the tools you can borrow. Suggested class would be a revolver repair class.
 
Good suggestions 4V50Gary but I think I will just pass on the barrel and look for the gun I want. I sort of like the 6" barreled gun. Its very accurate at 50 yards with a rest.
 
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