mixing powders ?

R

rebs

New member
I know you are not too mix powders even the same brand and type such as don't mix bullseye with bullseye from a different lot number. Also you should keep the powder measure close to full for accurate measures. So when you are reloading and you get down to only about 1/4 full of powder, in your measure and that canister is empty, what do you do ? Do you just top it off from a fresh canister or do you pour what is left into a fresh canister and thoroughly mix it or what is the proper way to refill the powder measure ?
 
I fill it back up as long as it's the same powder.
I never thought it hurt to mix the same powders with each other, lot to lot as long as you aren't loading at maximum loads.

I'm not sure maximum load data matters that much with today's anemic loading data.

I've been opening a new can of the same and dumping it on top of the same kind of powder for 43 years, I could never tell any difference. If it did matter, we would all have been in trouble a long time ago.

Mixing powders to me means mixing different kinds together to make a blend.

That's a no-no.
 
I never use max loads so I am unconcerned about a new canister of the same powder. However, I have in the past, dumped the old, left over powder into the new container and shook them to blend together, but I doubt if that was ever really necessary even with "hot" loads. It is just a matter of how cautious you want to be. Most "Ka-booms" are from serious mistakes as to loads.
 
The powders we have today are the best ever. Mixing from different lot's shouldn't be a problem.
You mentioned Bullseye, Alliant now makes that powder, It is tested (current Production) on a yearly basis. Alliant has a quanty of Bullseye from over 100 years ago. Once a year they compare current production to what was made 100 years ago and it always the same.

Even the powders made during the war years is of high quality.

Now if you are mixing two different powders ---- that's a no no.
 
My take is I really do mix them. I pour the last of the powder into the new container and then shake it up.

Maybe I am fooling myself but I think it blends them in if there is any difference its minimized.

I also don't load to max limits.

I would not mix older powders even if its the same ID with newer. How far back you can go is?????? What I have is really old or new. Really old does not get blended with new.

I am skeptical that anyone has powered a 100 year old they use for comparisons. Chemically its going to have changed.

Quality control is a constant process, not a once yearly.

I could be wrong, but I believe they have characteristics they work to and that is what they blend to.
 
you should keep the powder measure close to full for accurate measures.
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I have tested this extensively with my 32 year old RCBS Uniflow (the only powder measure I have ever used); and it throws accurately with an amazingly small amount of powder in the hopper - even almost completely empty. In fact, now days, I rarely fill the hopper over half way.

Here's what I do . . .

As I'm running low on a canister of powder and I'm throwing charges, I start weighing the throws more and more frequently (even with my past experience of how well my hopper throws with next to no powder in it). When I get down to the end, I discard the residual powder (usually just a few grains). At this point, that is the end of that "batch" of ammo.

When I open the new canister, I start a new batch of ammo - re-zero my scale; re-calibrate my hopper; etc. - I start over from the beginning. I have found that a new canister of powder - even if it's the same lot number - will weigh slightly heavier. I don't know why it becomes less dense after it has been opened for some time (moisture??); but it does. Knowing this, I basically start a new batch of ammo. My loading log book will show something like: quantity 73 of load #547; and quantity of 27 of load #548 - that sort of thing.

The powder transition is noted in my loading log book. I also keep a separate log book of all my powder canisters . . . When I purchased them; the lot #; what they weighed at the time of purchase; when it was opened; when it was exhausted. All good information to have.
 
I also put the remaining powder left from the last lb.of IMR 4064 into the new lb. give it a shake & start where I left off. As long as it's the same powder, I not so concerned.
 
I know you are not too mix powders even the same brand and type such as don't mix bullseye with bullseye from a different lot number.
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No problem - been doing it for over three decades......now, mixing different powders that are close to one another is a no-no. Same powder? mix it in and start cranking.
 
I mix them. Sometimes the same lot and sometimes different lots but I have no reservation with taking that last 1/8 Lb of say 4895 and mixing it with a new open container.

Ron
 
Same powder? mix it in and start cranking.
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I agree; basically.

In my first post (#7), I gave a description of what I do. But that's just me; and I'm OCD :p.

I agree that it's safe to mix the same powder (even with different lot #'s). My only caveat to that would be if the load recipe is on the top end. In that case, it might be prudent to back off about 5%, and step back up. Just like you would if you were switching primers, or trim length, or bullet brand, etc.
 
If it's the same powder I mix it. Unless you're mixing 20 year old stuff with new stuff I might be hesitant but current production stuff should be pretty close. Maybe if I was running high pressure rifle loads at max charges I'd make sure to back off a little and make sure I'm not over pressure.

I figure the worst that could happen is bringing a powder mix is closer to its actual average. For example taking a lot that's 2% hotter than average and mixing it with a lot that's 2% weaker than average is just going to bring the mix to average. Taking a lot that's 2% hotter than average and mixing with a lot that's 2% hotter does not create a lot that's 4% hotter. The newly mixed powder would still be 2% hotter than average.
 
I would think that today's manufacturing and testing techniques are accurate enough that there would not be a big enough difference between lots to matter. I mix them...
 
RC 20, the story about bullseye is as true as it can be determined to be. Alliant themselves provide the information. The stuff is stored in water, and that preserves the plastic material perfectly. Every year, as they said, a sample is drawn off, dried out, treated in any way necessary such as adding graphite, and then tested.

Alliant has provided this information, I believe that you can still find it on the website.
 
I will stand corrected if its true but it seems ?????????

Sure seems like you could get drift there, but what do I know?

Either they are pretty darned good or downright scary. (grin)

So , on their site they say they test each batch, blend to suit and then test again.

Also the SDS says its toxic to aquatic life. I would talk that to mean chemical leach out and poison.

It seems an urban legend but will stay tuned.
 
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You won't necessarily get drift. Add the proper amount of chemicals, add heat and other variables, use identical equipment year after year, there's no reason for drift. It's not like a bottle of wine from different years and vineyards.

I think that your biggest concern for aquatic life is that this stuff can probaby harm the bottom feeders that will eat it.
 
any of you guys ever heard of reprocessing black powder?

Obfiously a big military organization keeps huge amounts of munitions on hand. Back before the world was a wealthy place, powder was a very scarce commodity. When barrels of powder were stockpiled for years, it was tested before putting out in the field. Kegs that had been on ships were tested. All sorts or reasons for powder to be tested for ignition and power from the reaction.

Bullk quantities of powder were returned to the mills. It was wet down, ground to paste, dried, granulated, and put back into service. Nothing changed with the chemicals, it was just dried out and turned back into nice, solid dry granules. It may have been wet, powdery, caked, leaching, etc, and not suitible for use, and reprocessing was far less expensive than making it new.
 
Black powder never ages or goes bad. There have been reports of explosions

from old civil war shells.

As I recall Bullseye powder was actually floor sweepings from at the factory.

One of the fastest burning powders because of the small grain size, it was packaged and sold for reloading.
 
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