geokoppmann
Inactive
I need a hammer for a Miroku Kentucky rifle imported by Ultra Hi. any leads or factory / importer contacts would be greatly appreciated.
Miroku - Ultra Hi Parts Inquiry
- Thread starter geokoppmann
- Start date
Ultra HI and others imported cheap guns from Japan by the thousands in the 60's and 70's. Miroku made a lot of them. I don't know if Ultra Hi had them made or if they just imported. Some of the Miroku guns were good quality but none of the good ones to my knowledge have Ultra Hi on them. What come to my mind are the cheap Tower flintlock pistols and the rifles that had octagon to round barrels. The barrels were two piece welded together and the flintlock pistols wouldn't spark. In the very early 70's DGW sold the Tower pistols for around $40.00 and for another 10 they would tune the locks so they would spark. I don't know anything about the Korean guns but they weren't imported in the numbers the Japanese made ones were.
Gaucho Gringo
New member
I remember in the 60's looking at some cheap muzzle loading rifles from India at an import store for around $10-15.00. They were very crude and weighed next to nothing. Would hate to think what would happen if someone actually loaded and fired one.
Mine was a kit gun and the only thing i didn't like about it was the 2 piece stock.
It has a cheap brass cover over the seam.
And mine didn't spark either, i had to harden the frizzen!
I have always loved shooting it.
Its a .44cal and i use a .437 lee RB mold.
My 1st project was to remove the made i Japan from the barrel.
I used a birchwood casey Plumb Brown kit to finish the barrel but i did it many times because of the porocity's in the metal and they would really show up with that beautiful brown finish.
The picture is 10 years old of one of my Grandson's practicing before deer season as this was the gun he wanted to use.
at least 3 day a week for the month before season he would be ready to go shoot this rifle.
He didn't get an opportunity and his mother let him use her 788 in 30-30Win the next few years and he brought home the meat several times.
It has a cheap brass cover over the seam.
And mine didn't spark either, i had to harden the frizzen!
I have always loved shooting it.
Its a .44cal and i use a .437 lee RB mold.
My 1st project was to remove the made i Japan from the barrel.
I used a birchwood casey Plumb Brown kit to finish the barrel but i did it many times because of the porocity's in the metal and they would really show up with that beautiful brown finish.
The picture is 10 years old of one of my Grandson's practicing before deer season as this was the gun he wanted to use.
at least 3 day a week for the month before season he would be ready to go shoot this rifle.
He didn't get an opportunity and his mother let him use her 788 in 30-30Win the next few years and he brought home the meat several times.
Another day different location.
Text with the picture:
Logan Takes Aim
The Ram is 12" at 100 yards. The 1st load was 30 gr. FFFg under a .437 PRB
The ball hit the ground 10 yards in front of the Ram.
The charge was increased to 40 gr. FFFg and the Ram went down.
Cousin Josh knocks over 3 pigs on the same rail. He would have liked to knocked over a turkey, but its OK. He said I brought home the bacon today!
Text with the picture:
Logan Takes Aim
The Ram is 12" at 100 yards. The 1st load was 30 gr. FFFg under a .437 PRB
The ball hit the ground 10 yards in front of the Ram.
The charge was increased to 40 gr. FFFg and the Ram went down.
Cousin Josh knocks over 3 pigs on the same rail. He would have liked to knocked over a turkey, but its OK. He said I brought home the bacon today!
Another picture i have of this rifle when i Dry Balled it.
And then i stripped the ball with the little Jag and then twisted the rod tip off with a larger jag.
I made up a drill bit with a guide to pilot the ball for a larger jag screw and that never failed me.
The 1st setup with needle tip and grease gun didn't work. and the small compressor wouldn't move the ball.
Plan B was done at the fire hall using the SCUBA tank fill hose. The needle grease tip was attached to the hose capable of 3,000 psi, but the regulator was set down to 1,800 psi. The ram rod was resting against obstruction to visualize any movement. Pressure was applied by throttling the air flow with valve. No movement until valve was opened fully as the connection was poor, leaking air around needle fitting. When the obstruction moved it was a rapid movement with ramrod and ball exiting barrel and were caught in the trap set up 4' from muzzle.
Cowabunga!
This is the ball, ball jag and rod tip after it was pneumatically removed from barrel. The small ball jag was what I initially tried to pull this ball with. It stripped out.
And then i stripped the ball with the little Jag and then twisted the rod tip off with a larger jag.
I made up a drill bit with a guide to pilot the ball for a larger jag screw and that never failed me.
The 1st setup with needle tip and grease gun didn't work. and the small compressor wouldn't move the ball.
Plan B was done at the fire hall using the SCUBA tank fill hose. The needle grease tip was attached to the hose capable of 3,000 psi, but the regulator was set down to 1,800 psi. The ram rod was resting against obstruction to visualize any movement. Pressure was applied by throttling the air flow with valve. No movement until valve was opened fully as the connection was poor, leaking air around needle fitting. When the obstruction moved it was a rapid movement with ramrod and ball exiting barrel and were caught in the trap set up 4' from muzzle.
Cowabunga!
This is the ball, ball jag and rod tip after it was pneumatically removed from barrel. The small ball jag was what I initially tried to pull this ball with. It stripped out.
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