Mind boggling..

Gunslick

New member
Okay so I have been fitting parts from my Harrison order the past couple nights taking my time on the trigger right now that has the set screw permanatly attatched..here is my concern..

Looking at the factory sear, is it normal to have wear on the sear, from the nose down about half way as if there is not enough over-travel (which doesn't make sense because the factory trigger does not have an adjustment screw) there is galing or deap marks just shinney and the finish worn off as if the hammer hooks are rubbing a bit after each shot is fired. No malfunctions yet.

So I have installed all the Harrison ignition set and trigger after I fit it to the frame and filed off most of the set screw because I had to to get the disconnector to disconnect AND to not feel any rubbing as I let the hammer down with the MSH pulled down (just enough to put pressure on the sear spring) and then I took a couple more strokes off, I colored the Harrison sear with black sharpy and there is minimal contact. Shouldn't there be zero contact or is a little okay? I am almost done, just have to fit the thumb safety.

It is strange to me, with the Harrison ignition set in and a Colt sear spring that I have adjusted-I adjust the sear and disconnector spring forward a bit and they are almost equal because it was too light for my taste for carry-what is strange is that with my 23lb main spring, the Harrison ignition set or hammer rather seems to have a little more tension when cocking it that the factory hammer with the same weight spring. I know I am close. Main concern is the wear on the sear from apparently the hammer rubbing as the hammer falls normal to some degree?
 
Mind Boggling??

Yes, your post certainly is.

You are asking about what is normal wear, and fitting parts (from a maker I've never heard of in a gun that you DO NOT NAME.

It SOUNDS like you are talking about a 1911 pattern gun, but nowhere do you state exactly what gun it is you are working on, so how are we supposed to judge what is "normal"????

as if there is not enough over-travel

"as if" means you do not know, for certain

"not enough overtravel" - I don't see how ANY wear can come from "not enough" overtravel, because when there is not enough overtravel, the gun will not fire!!!

I adjust the sear and disconnector spring.......because it was too light for my taste for carry-...

you are adjusting springs to suit your personal taste about what is too light (or too heavy, one would assume), you don't state what they personal taste IS, for comparison, THEN you ask if a certain wear pattern is "normal" on parts in a gun we don't know, with "adjustments" done to it, that we don't know what they are, other than your brief description.

yes, trying to make sense of your post and give a valid answer to your questions is mind boggling!

Good Luck with your gunsmithing project. Seems to me like you'll need it...;)
 
Its the same pistol ive been working on. Harrison design ignition parts in a 1911. Springfield. No ils. Is it normal to have wear on the sear below the nose. Like finish wear from the hammer dropping. 1911a1. Oem trigger.
 
I think if possible you return you pistol to factory stock . You are not ready to do the mods you want to do. You are not a gunsmith . Nor do you have the knowledge or skills to perform the tasks. You set out to do.

That's what it seems like to me any way. Sorry if that offends you. But thats way I see it from all of your posts .
 
OK, now that we know for sure what pistol you are talking about, the answer to this, is..

Is it normal to have wear on the sear below the nose. Like finish wear from the hammer dropping.

No one can tell you. I know that's not the answer you want, but its the honest answer. You are using a frame from one maker, parts from another(s), we can't see how these specific parts fit together, or know what the tolerances are in all their different aspects. What is normal in a GI spec gun may not be in some other maker's gun, and kit guns using a variety of parts are almost guaranteed to vary from GI spec in some ways, sometimes important ways.

Do you use a jig to determine the correct angles and amount of engagement between fire control group parts? HAS that jig (if you have one) been verified to be the same (precise) measurements as the actual frame you are working on???

The "field" version is to use the frame itself. Put the parts on the outside of the frame, lined up, and insert the pins, This will easily show you how things are positioned and what rubs on what, where, and how much.

When you get away from milspec GI guns (which includes Colt commercial govt. models, pre-series 70) when you use ANY kind of parts that require fitting, there is no "normal" with certainty.

Wear marks from rubbing on the rear face of the sear would not be normal in a GI spec gun. The same marks in a gun made to someone else's idea of what the proper specs should be, could be normal, you have to ask the maker, I suppose. Wear on custom/aftermarket parts, fitted to a frame by you, I have no idea what "normal" would be...
 
When you set the hammer at half-cock, is there any trigger travel (take-up)?
If you have "any" trigger travel at half-cock, and there is no contact between the half-cock and the sear nose when the hammer drops, you should have enough overtravel.
I wouldn't compare the factory parts to the aftermarket parts (that is, don't necessarily worry that you don't have rub marks on the Harrison sear because you have them on the Springfield sear).
The sear spring is pushing the sear against the hammer, so I might expect to see evidence of rubbing of the hammer on the lower, inner face of the sear.
 
RickB said:
The sear spring is pushing the sear against the hammer, so I might expect to see evidence of rubbing of the hammer on the lower, inner face of the sear.
The sear spring pushes the sear against the hammer when at rest in the cocked position, but the gun fires by the trigger rotating the sear far enough to move the sear tip outboard of the hammer hooks. The shape of the sear should be such that, if the tip is far enough out to allow the hammer to fall, the hammer hooks should not rub on the portion of the sear below the tip.

But ... with foreign parts, who knows? This is apparently an older Springfield 1911, so it was probably made in Brazil. Maybe Imbel's tolerances are (were) a bit off the mark.

The real question is -- does it matter? As long as the gun fires reliably, I don't see any harm from this rubbing. And, at this point, it seems that Gunslick has replaced the offemding parts anyway, so it's a brand new ball game.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RickB
The sear spring is pushing the sear against the hammer, so I might expect to see evidence of rubbing of the hammer on the lower, inner face of the sear.

The sear spring pushes the sear against the hammer when at rest in the cocked position, but the gun fires by the trigger rotating the sear far enough to move the sear tip outboard of the hammer hooks. The shape of the sear should be such that, if the tip is far enough out to allow the hammer to fall, the hammer hooks should not rub on the portion of the sear below the tip.

Yeah, but any time you manually cock the hammer, or rack the slide from hammer-down, the sear spring will be pushing the sear against the hammer, and there will eventually be some "wear", if only to the finish.
 
I finally finished fitting all my harrison parts with great success and it helped me understand the 1911 interworkings a lot better. Only thing is, I ordered the colt sear spring he sells, Im not after a light pull so by hand I have been adjusting the center leg forward to kind of match the stock trigger pull and I cant quite get it or I am just affraid of adjusting the spring too much maybe. I know the stock Springfield sear spring works great but i am not sure if i can use it. Both springs safety checked and function checked perfect and I shot it with the colt sear spring but its not seeming to hold the bend I give it. I want to use the stock sear spring if it is okay to. It gives it a 4.5-5lb pull with the stock sear spring.
 
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