MIM Parts - What's the Problem?

Who makes the best "out of the box" 1911 today?

  • Colt

    Votes: 10 18.5%

  • Springfield Armory

    Votes: 8 14.8%

  • Kimber

    Votes: 34 63.0%

  • Auto Ordinance

    Votes: 2 3.7%
  • Total voters
    54
A

Anthony

New member
Hello Everyone,

It is my understanding that Kimber uses parts produced using the MIM process in their 1911s. I understand the process, but others have told me that such parts are pure trash and wear out quickly. Others have said they are fine, but do not lend themselves to honing and tuning from a gunsmith the way forged parts do.

What is the truth?

Has anyone actually worn these MIM parts out? If yes, how long did it take?

Opinion?

- Anthony
 
I voted Colt because I like the traditional base and building up from there; putting on parts I like and truly customizing the gun to MY specs :D
 
The problem with MIM parts is that once they are form, they are hardened to make them suitable for use in firearms. If you try to stone such a part, the hardened layer is not very thick and its really easy to remove it completely. If you removed the hardened layer, they tend to break upon first use.
 
MIM -- metal injection moulding. It seems to serve a lot of uses well on various guns. However, Kimber uses it for things like trigger and sear that require a precise, hard edge and great durability. Also many top smiths won't work on MIM parts... if you want a trigger job you've got to replace this stuff.

MIM parts that break on Kimbers include take down levers, slide stops, Safety controls and rear sights.

Yo
 
Take down lever = slide stop.

Too many companies use the MIM process for parts that could be machined just as fast and easily. I could never understand MIM firing pins, for example, when a good screw machine could turn them out faster and, perhaps, better.
 
I feel like I'm pretty well equipped to talk about this, even though I'm a firearms newbie, because my other hobbies have similar issues.

In electric guitars, some people are obsessed with how many pieces of wood the guitar body is made of ("mine's two; yours is three...yours sucks"), or whether a certain finish sucks the tone out of the guitar ("I would never play a Strat with a poly finish!"). Then there are real musicians who actually play for a living; they couldn't tell you about that stuff or care less.

In pocket knives, some people (myself included...) will debate for years about the best kind of stainless steel ("How could you use 440-C on a recurved, flat-grind knife?"). If you think gun folks are concerned about the materials that go into their toys, check out knife nuts like me...I can tell you what the washers are made of in every one of my knives, and why each one has the blade chromium content that it does. And then there are folks who use knives every day for a living, and they couldn't tell you about that stuff or care less.

Pool cues: I have a Predator 314 shaft with a stainless joint (I sure do like those wood-to-wood joints, though). It's made of 10 separate pie-shaped pieces, fitted together to make a perfect shaft that flexes the same in every direction. I'm good, but there are lots of people out there who can clean the table with my sorry ass, playing with a house cue.

I could go on, of course. The point is that there's always an upgrade, no matter how upgraded you are. But well before you run out of upgrades, you hit a point where you're not really adding any functionality. I have a basic Kimber. The only thing I'm going to do is add match grips. When it's time for a trigger job (it would be nice to have a 2.5-pound trigger...), I won't mind replacing a sear or whatnot. For now, that sear is never going to keep my gun from going off.
 
Who makes the best "out of the box" 1911 today?
Click to expand...
Watch out for the 1911 Medallion Series from Armscor. It'll take your breath away! No, they won't be another Charles Daly model, since Armscor's sticking their neck out on this one by printing their own logo to it. Too bad i haven't got the $550 they're asking for the blued model (the deepest blueing i've seen) at the last gunshow. It could have been my first 1911. Their top of the line model is only at $950 but it has the complete package: adjustable rear sight, quality serrations at grip and slide top (pachmayr if you want), front and back slide serrations, match trigger, beavertail grip safety, magwell, stainless finish, fiber optic front sight, rounded edges, all handfitted to perfection. The model in display is the gun of our national police chief, and that says quite a lot!

oh, wait a minute...

I'm drooling...:cool:

New_comer
 
Last edited:
Hello all.

I don't know if Kimber uses MIM parts or not. I don't know if they are better or worse.

What I can tell you is the only Kimber I've owned has better than 35,000 rounds through it in the year and a half that I've owned it. I detail stripped it about three weeks ago in order to put it in the ultrasonic cleaner, and although there is some wear on some of the parts, it is in great shape!

Nothing in this gun has been replaced except for the recoil spring (twice) and the grips.

I know there are those who say that the "MIM" parts need to be replaced instantly and you can't trust them to even fire once. They've worked really well for me!

Casey
 
I have to admit that I've never understood this whole MIM controversy. I've put thousands of rounds through my Kimbers and never had anything break. I've had a gunsmith do a trigger job on one, and the factory do a trigger job on the other. The gunsmith never complained about MIM parts being soft, and the trigger job has held up quite well.

I've had problems with my early ParaOrdnance P14, but never my Kimbers.

M1911
 
The Complete Bootlegged MIM Tutorial
winksbuddie.gif
 
Yeah, I would have to say kimber. It comes the closest of any 1911 to working right "out of the box", but that's only because Kimber has done most of the things that you have to have a custom shop do to any 1911 to get it to work right... at the factory!!!! Still pay for it though!!! Sheesh, $1400 for a pistol!!! (Kimber Custom Carry) I'll keep my G36. Thank you very much!!!:D
 
Shmackey, I know what you mean. I'm a photographer, and people are constantly saying "what's the best camera to buy? So-and-so say's it's the XYZ model." My answer is always the same: I don't know, but this camera has always worked for me.

I've never owned a 1911 other than a Kimber, so I can't speak to this issue except to say that no parts on mine have broken and they shoot great.
 
My kimber is still nice and tight with no breakage. It's been about 5 years and at least 10,000 rounds. Shot it today, great gun. Mark
 
Jim V - It was a rehtorical question, but thanks anyway.

Monkeyleg - The best camera is a Nikon. Everybody knows that.;) :D
 
Nikon?!? I could take better pictures with my Spyderco Military, with CPM-440V steel and nested liners in the G10!

Besides, Leicas and Hasselblads are better. Let the camera snobbery begin!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top