Metalurgy quality of the Canik TP9?

R

Recoil spring

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I once owned 4 Taurus handguns in the 1990's they were OK as shooters, but sold them off when I noticed that the metal quality was not good, soft steel and their customer service was known to be bad. Heard the Bersa pistols are also soft, but people like them as shooters for the low price.

Was thinking of getting the Canuck TP9 series of pistols, would use it for more for recreational shooting and possible house gun, how is the steel quality on the slides of those guns, anyone do a detailed check of how well they hold up wear wise?


I had also considered the Taurus G2 pistol, but saw a detailed online review where the owner had 2 of them and showed all the stuff you can do to improve them, however, he had detailed photos of how the slide was wearing very fast, poor metallurgy. I suppose they would be OK for a house gun where you don't shoot them much.
 
Metallurgy and means of manufacture (including heat treatment) are both important in the durability of a firearm. It's something gun writers don't write about or ask the manufacturer about in preparing their articles. It's one reason why I gave up on gunrags and rather ask people at TFL or THR.
 
All I know is that I have seen some being shot in competition, which runs up the round count. I suggest you buy one, they are not very expensive, and put some miles on it. If it holds up, you can then look at the "series".
 
The CANIK TP9 is made in Turkey (not Canada). The Turks actually have a fairly robust steel industry and a roibust history in firearms manufacturing. Without reliable information to the contrary, there is no reason to believe that the Canik suffers from poor matalurgy.
 
Made by the elves you know.

There is a lot more in a firearm likely to go wrong than the metallurgy in my experience.

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I don't know what steel they use, but 4140 is typical and cheap! Easy to machine. For the OP: What was the hardness number of your pistol's steel? Rockwell or Brinell, either will do.
 
TISAS BHP mfg in TURKEY

look what happened with this TURK BR9 "Browning HP copy" mfg by TISAS in Turkey

slide cracked, extractor broke on a new pistol, not very good metalurgy in my opinion, I would stay away from TURK guns, worse than TAURUS.

https://forums.1911forum.com/showthread.php?t=997660

TISAS-TURK-BHP.jpg


TURK-BHP.jpg
 
It's the phosphate with a cerakote finish I don't care for.

As the TP9 series copies either a P99 or a PPQ, the 100 dollar difference is worth it for the metal treatment that Walther does.
 
Don't know about he metallurgy, but my TP9SA is a great shooter. Also has a very nice trigger from the factory. Almost as good as the Walther PPQ trigger IMO.

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The only way that you will learn about the metallurgy of a particular gun is to buy one and shoot it.

It's also useful to know that knowing something about the metallurgy doesn't necessarily tell you about how a gun is built or how durable it may be.

If you do want to gather opinions on the Canuk it might be better to simply post a question on multiple gun forums "What is your experience with Canuk pistols?" and see the replys. Doing that might provide you with some more useful information, or not, but it will be differing opinions.

tipoc
 
The BHP was not designed to have a dovetailed rear sight.
Moving the sight back just a little probably would have prevented that crack.
 
As far as steel hardness goes, there should be an appropriate range for hardness for the application. Softer steel is good for areas that might flex, hard steel for those that shouldn't (like a bolt). I keep a small collection of upper end kitchen knives. Hard steel chips or breaks. Soft steel bends or warps.

Getting the hardest steel is not necessarily the best option.

That said not all steels are equal at the measured hardness level, as it is just a measurement. Quality and purity of the steel is as important as hardness. And different parts need different levels of hardness. Example: springs vs bolts.
 
To echo the above:

The strongest metal chain is Grade 120. Nothing lifts heavier.

Is it the best security chain? Nope because it is more brittle.

I get your point though. No. People haven't been reporting Canik slides breaking.

I will report their finish is about the worst out there.

It's so bad, I would say you are getting a worse deal with a Canik than buying the more expensive Walther Canik copies. The Walther has a harder exterior finish but also has a true metal finish.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
The BHP was not designed to have a dovetailed rear sight.
Moving the sight back just a little probably would have prevented that crack.
Click to expand...
My guess is you mean front. And the Mk IIIs do have a dovetailed front sight. Their dovetails aren't as big as seen on the Regent.

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4V50 Gary said:
Metallurgy and means of manufacture (including heat treatment) are both important in the durability of a firearm. It's something gun writers don't write about or ask the manufacturer about in preparing their articles. It's one reason why I gave up on gunrags and rather ask people at TFL or THR.
Click to expand...

Yep. It's hard to get that sort of detailed manufacturing and materials knowledge from some of the usual reps and sales people, anyway. It's not uncommon for that sort of detailed production info not to have been shared with them by engineers, anyway.

Even finding out if a slide or barrel is zone tempered or fully "through" tempered can be a difficult thing to learn, and you might get different answers from different "factory" folks at different times. BTDT for different manufacturers.

Now, the Canik firearms website lists some respectable quality/specs, and I'd not see any reason to doubt them.

I don't have any first-hand experience with their pistols, though, as they aren't really something you see in LE holsters, and I've not attended an armorer class for them. I don't believe they're even on the CA state Roster, so they might be like hen's teeth on the private owner market (unless sold here as used guns by a cop owner, or someone having moved here from out-of-state with one?).

Anything based on the 99 platform, if done with comparable engineering and materials, would seem to be a decent risk to try, I'd think (hope).

If I still had my peace officer exemption I'd probably order and try one, especially since I'm an armorer (and longtime owner/user) of the original 99's.
 
tipoc said:
The only way that you will learn about the metallurgy of a particular gun is to buy one and shoot it.

It's also useful to know that knowing something about the metallurgy doesn't necessarily tell you about how a gun is built or how durable it may be.

If you do want to gather opinions on the Canuk it might be better to simply post a question on multiple gun forums "What is your experience with Canuk pistols?" and see the replys. Doing that might provide you with some more useful information, or not, but it will be differing opinions.

tipoc
Click to expand...
Um i think you meant Canik there tipdoc and not Canuk, eh.:)
 
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