metal target for handguns

C

carp

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Has anyone here ever built metal gong target for handguns? I would like to weld some up but i don't know how thick the steel need to be and if i need to use harden steel or what. I have a 9mm but a friend has a 40 so i would like to build it for both.

Then if i do get one built is it ok to shoot fmj at it or will i need to use a different kink of round.
 
Careful with steel and handguns. If you use hardened steel it may cause serious ricochets. If you use soft steel you may end up just turning it to swiss cheese (albeit that's preferable to bullets flying back at you or in a dangerous direction).

If I'm making my own gongs for handguns I go for 1/16" thick mild steel plates. Weld them to rings and chain them up to a brace. That way they're heavy enough to make a good ring but fmj from most service calibers will shoot through them at closer ranges so there won't be a ricochet.

If you want something you can shoot at that will be more durable get some AR500 plates and hang them up. Be careful though that anything a bullet won't pass through CAN cause ricochets. That said if you hang the plates properly (with a slight downward angle to the face) you shouldn't have any problems.
 
Hard/soft does make a difference in how the bullet impacting reacts. But, it is not a factor in safety.
All that matters is that the targets are supported in a manner that does not direct spatter back towards the shooter.
Standing targets should have bases only heavy enough to hold the target upright.
Swinging targets must swing easily.
Hanging targets must hang freely so as to allow spatter to go downwards.
I used to manufacture steel sillhouette targets and learned some lessons the hard way.
My rule is to never shoot steel closer than 25 yards. But, I have broken that rule many times with swinging mano-o-mano dueling trees. As long as the plate swings the spatter will go to the side.
Still do take precautions, safety glasses are a must.
Type of steel is usualy determined by local availability and your budget.
Most steels at 3/8" will hold up fairly well until someone shows up with loaded to the max-max 300 gr bullet in a .44 mag. or a Causull, etc.
1/2" hard face will last a long time.
 
Believe it or not, a piece of steel I-beam works great for handguns. PING!

Drill four holes at the top and run some rope through for a handle. Fold the rope down first so it doesn't get cut from the bullets.
 
I have a ipsc/idpa steel target for pistols and rifles. Its 3/8" ar500 steel. Purchased from artenzen.com for around $270, including the stand.

Its hard enough to take rifle fire at distance, or pistols as close as 20ft. It hangs at about a 10 degree angle to deflect the splatter down to the ground. I have use it for over a year now and never had a single round come back.

Take my advise buy one. Its safer.

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk
 
Careful about building

Building a target is a great way to get into steel targets but you run a higher risk of something going wrong if you build it on your own. Consider purchasing from a reputable source to increase the safety of using steel to shoot at. Check out Action Target's line of steel targets. They offer AR500/550 targets that have been used by law enforcement and military agencies for a long time. actiontarget.com/store
 
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