Mauser yugo 48

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rush-2112

New member
I have a nice yugo m48, and I would like to change the chambering to a more intresting cartridge. I was thinking .257 roberts ackley improved. One of my questions is, do standard mauser 98 barrels thread in or is this gong to be an exersice in futility?
 
Your Mauser has 55 degree Witworth threads and yes a 60 degree thread will screw into the reciever. I would either have reciever tapped for 60 or barrel threaded for the 55 degree threads. This way you have more persentage of threads workinging in your favor. I'm a firm beliver that the threads on reciever and barrel should match ... Hope this has helped!
 
Brownell sells a tap for a 60 degree thread for the reciever and barrel blanks, or even short chambered barrels. If you have any machine shop skills one can grind his own 55 degree threader. You use the word aspiring smith, any smith with machining background shouldnt have any trouble, there is NO black magic to it. If one knows how to use measuring tool and keep measurements in tolerances then no problem. But, on the other hand if you dont know what your doing it can get you in trouble and even injury or death.
 
Changing the caliber would mean changing the barrel, this i hope you already know, and the 257 roberts is a good round!
Welcome to the forum!!!
 
Yes. 10 TPI Whitworth thread. Brownells sells the tap, but also sells 55° pre-ground lathe tool bits. An alternative is to buy a barrel pre-contoured with a roughed short chamber, so all you need to do is put the barrel on the receiver and finish ream it. That is about the only expedient course of action if you want to do it yourself and don't have a lathe. The final reaming to size can be done with a reamer on a T-handle through the bolt way. You will need the reamer, handle, and a headspace GO gauge to complete the task.
 
WOW!!! Thanks for all the information! I am going to try and do this over the winter and after the gun season.

Thanks
Ted
 
The Mausers i have barreled all had 12 threads per inch, never ran across any with 10 tpi, and it can be done without a lathe but what APITA that would be. Good tools = a good job!
 
I"m sure he did and i didnt mean to sound like an a$$, just that so far to that point i noticed no mention of the number of TPI, but i still say doing a barrel without equiptment would be a PITA!
 
threads

srtrax:
I had trouble with Brownells technical department (HA!) about Turkish model 38 Mausers.
They said they found one with an 11 1/2 thread! I told them that was a machining error (guy had his point in threading boss in the wrong hole) and they denied that. Upon my further badgering them on the Turk 38 they cerrosafed the action threads - 12TPI! They wrote me back saying, "I had humbled them." but they refused to correct their technical site - I don't have much respect for them now - yea I still order stuff but tech,' no! No!
Harry B.

Turk 38 thd. is .980 dia. X 12TPI.
 
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Well this is great gentleman! I appreciate all the infornation that was given. The next question is, does this seem to be a doable project for a very rookie smith? I did a very nice trigger job on it and a minor refinish on the wood. But, is a complete rebarrel job something for me to try?:confused:

Ted
 
conversion

Rush 2112:
I'm sure you can do this. And welcome to the Forum - home of all gun-nuts:)!
As you start just get on the forum and I'm sure some of the Mauser smiths will guide you through the process!

As a starter you'll need an action wrench: find a 3 foot 1" square bar and grind a groove that the recoil sholder of the action will fit into to get the bar in the center of the reciever ring and drill for a 3/8" U-bolt that just fits the reciever ring. Do not clamp overly tight but tight enough. If you don't want the old bbl. use a pipe wrench on the floor and with bolt inserted in action break loose the old bbl. It will come!

I think a "short chambered" bbl. will be best, but I really think I'd send your action to Douglas in Charleston W.Va, for the wildcat chamber work - I believe they chamber for your round (I'd say 25-06 instead of the improved) - they will check your action and do a wonderful job of fitting - you'll have enough to do after that!!
Harry B.
 
Harry: I had the same problem, lord its been over 10 yrs or better and at the moment dont recall what it was i asked them, something to do with a type of finish on a blueing job. O.K. the customer wanted a diamond in a goats ass finish and wanted some of there ultra fine polish to buff it out. I was to do the job, so called to ask a tech about getting that type of finish, he told me to leave that for the jewelery people and lets not put stuff like that on a gun. Told him it was a customers request, and that i was going to make a pretty penny for doing it, but got the same come back as before... so i hand polished to a goats finish using sandpaper and collected my money. I was happy and my customer was happy, but as far as techs go , that day i said fck them! I still buy also, but dont ask any questions for they are far smarter then I ;). 11 1/2 thd HeHEHEHE
 
Rush 2112: i've got to say doing a barrel job is much more involved then a trigger and stock job. But then i dont know you personaly and maybe you can do it. Read all you can find on barrel instalation and then youll know better yourself if you can do it or not. I learned in gunsmithing school so it was easy for me from the very first, well untill i got all my own machinery anyway! :rolleyes: Good Luck.
 
srtrax

srtrax:
Sir: when I started I had only a 9" Craftsman lathe. I used a steady rest and took measurements and used a 3 square file to adjust headspace on Mausers!
My first muzzle-loaders - I'd sometimes have to make three breech-plugs before I got one right. It was a nightmare. But, as they say, "poor folk has poor ways."
I now have a 12X36 Grizzly lathe and a large Grizzly mill - the three jaw runs out .0015 and the workpiece! the mill - .000 on collet and spindle. Good stuf!
Have a good day srtrax.
Harry B.
 
You do know that the M48 Mauser has a safety breech, right? Although some folks may rebarrel using standard Mauser prethreaded barrels, I prefer to cut that safety breech and extractor slot just as the originals were done. This involves setting the shoulder forward on a prethreaded barrel and cutting a boss about 0.045 inches deep on the breech end of the barrel. You can follow the essentials here:

http://mausercentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18807
http://mausercentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18808
http://mausercentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18809
http://mausercentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=18810

Good luck and let us know if we can help.

Clemson
 
Nice post Clemson, I was going to suggest the book- The Mauser M91 Through M98 Bolt Actions A Shop Manual...by Jerry Kuhnhausen because once you get that bug started you'll want to do more to the action, and this book cover it all! Ted, let us know how it turns out and enjoy!!! :)
 
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