Mauser staight bolt question

L

(Long Action 86)

Inactive
A few days ago I puchased a 8mm mauser from a friend for little or nothing from what I gathered its a 1938 german or turkish mauser. Its got the k.kale stamp. Well anyways, my question is, I'm looking at possibly mounting a scope on it and I was wondering if I could bend the bolt with heat or tweek a newer mauser style bolt to be able to clear the rings. Or if anyone knew of and product that may help me with this problem. ATI makes a handle but I don't know about cutting, drilling and tapping my bolt. I may be willing to try this product if I knew where to find a replacement bolt. I want to be sure that the bolt handle will clear before I drill and tap my action. We'll any input or advise is welcolmed thanks.
 
There have been several solutions to the "bent bolt" problem. The one I always used, and prefer, is to use a set of bending blocks and a heat sink, heat the bolt with a torch and bend it down with a big hammer. Sounds awful, but the job (done right) turns out looking nice and of course the handle can never come off. The bolt knob can be shaped or checkered as the customer wants.

The way preferred by many gunsmiths is to cut off the handle and weld on one of the bolt handles available through Brownells and other suppliers. This has the advantage that a longer handle can be used without a lot of stretching and if the job is done right, the handle is going to stay on. (Unfortunately, some are not "done right" and I have seen them come off.)

The third way involves cutting off the handle, drillling and tapping the stub, then screwing on a handle with a hole in it for the screw. I know others will disagree, but IMHO, the result is unattractive and the screw may or may not stay in place. Again, IMHO, it is the least appealing method, though it may be the cheapest and the easiest for a home workshop.

Note that any bolt that is turned down enough to clear a scope will require cutting away not just part of the stock but also cutting a notch in the receiver.

Jim
 
Thanks. I'm going to shop around for those bending blocks, my welding is not good enough to atempt the cut and weld method. And appreciate the advise on the cut and tap method I had my doubts that a small screw would hold up in the application. But does anyone know where I can find mil surplus bolts that will work in my action id like to have a backup in case something went wrong. Thanks
 
A fourth way would be to not D/T the action or bend/weld the bolt handle.

A "no gunsmithing" scope mount is available from B-Square, that replaces the rear barrel sight leaf, so the shooter can utilize either a pistol or "scout" scope with no other mods.

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I looked into the b square bases they had a lot of bad reviews not for quality but for ease of installation. A lot of ppl had to do modifications to this base to make it fit. My problem is that I'm not sure what my mauser is classified as the barrel is stamped 1938 german 8mm the action has a lot of stamps including k.kale which through my research tells me that its was turkish. But is it a large ring 98, 38 or some other model? I'm stumped on this issue. I'm not sure that it matters with the b square base the manufacture didn't have a lot of info on this subject on the few places I looked. Midway brole it down in the various models of mauser each with different product codes. I want to know for sure what model myy mauser is before purchasing the wrong thing.
 
Before you spend money on bending blocks etc talk to your local machine shop. You probably can get a cut and weld job for $30, especially if you do your own polishing of the weld afterward.
 
Your post implied that you wanted a replacement bolt in the event that you ruined the one that you were trying to convert. Are you aware that bolts are not interchangeable in that a replacement bolt may or may not result in correct head-space?
 
If you have a non-gunsmith do ANY welding on the bolt/handle - BE SURE to insist upon the use of the proper, good, heat sinks in & around the heated area(s).

If heat sinks aren't used (properly) the chances will be very high that the heat-treat/temper of the cocking cam (near the root of the bolt handle) will be lost, causing the camming surface to gall after a little use, leading to hard cocking/bolt lift.

Since you seem nervous about experimenting, why not speak to B-Square's customer service, and ask if you can return the mount if it doesn't fit your rifle's sight base ?

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I have modified three Mausers that had bolt clearance issues.

The first (Yugo M48 - has a "wide-arc bent bolt that won't clear a normal rear mounted scope). I went the expensive route and it sent to Ken Farrell Industries. Ken cut off the bolt handle and welded on another; drilled and tapped the receiver and mounted one of his custom steel bases with Picatinny (MILSPEC 1913) spacing. It is rock solid and shoots 1 MOA with my reloads. Ken bases are excellent but your rifle needs to be drilled and tapped and have a bent bolt. He also makes them for almost any modern sporting rifle.

The second (Yugo 24/7 - a straight bolt) I left the bolt alone and ordered a scout base from S&K Scope Mounts, a little outfit run by a husband and wife that make their own design scout-type bases for various surplus rifles. They probably have one that will fit your Mauser. These bases are aluminum "weaver type" and the "slots" on them are NOT Picatinny spaced (there is a difference). The base installs in less than ten minutes and replaces the rear leaf sight. They use two attachment points and additionally have two set screws for gross elevation adjustment. I also ordered their bases for a Mosin-Nagant 91/30 and a 1903 A1. Contact them S&K Scope Mounts 800-578-9862 and view the bases online at scopemounts.com.

The third (Yugo 48A - also a wide arc bolt), I also left the bolt alone and installed an after market Picatinny spaced scout base that I found at a gunshow and haven't been able to determine the brand. It is aluminum and has only one attachment point and two set screws (one forward; one aft of the attachment screw on the rear sight leaf). Although it seemed to be a solid installation it loosens slightly after several rounds fired at the range. I have twice tried different ways of solving the loosening and hope yesterday's attempt will fix it.

If you use a scout mount you will need a Long Eye Relief scope, either handgun or LER/EER (Extended Eye Relief). If you don't plan on shooting small targets at 100 yds or hunting large game beyond 100 yds you might consider a red dot or holographic sight.

Hope this helps and good luck with the project.

Jim
 
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Thanks everyone for your input I've decided to go with a scout scope mount over any mods to the handle for the time being. Don't want to have to much into a rifle that may be doing good to shoot 2in MOA. Ill post pics of final product. Once again thanks for all your help and advise. Seasons greatings.
 
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