mauser project questions

S

Scratch

New member
I'd like to start a project rifle. I've heard a lot on this board and others that a mauser can be had fairly inexpensive and is a good start.
I know nothing about these rifles so I need all the basic. Where to look, what to look for, what I sould expect to pay, etc.
I'd like to end up with it chambered for a common cal. like 30' 06, 308, or others that the list might encourage me to.
I'd like something that I can shoot accurately at the range and maybe take deer hunting.
Is this a worth whiled project?
I know I may have opened a big can of worms here.Thank you everyone for your advice.
Scratch
 
Well, you picked a good starting point. It's probably easier to find parts to sporterize a Mauser than any other military rifle. At least, that's my impression - I keep tripping over them when I'm looking for parts to finish my M1917!

Midway is a good place to start. You can download their catalog and/or request they ship you one.
www.midwayusa.com

My advice - you know what you want it for, now decide what you're going to do to it. Get a picture of your finished rifle in your head. Then, make a list of all the parts you'll need, then compare all the options you can find (e.g. different stocks, scopes, scope mounts, safeties, triggers, etc.). That'll give you an idea of the cost before you factor in the cost of a good gunsmith to check everything over and do some finishing work (like crowning the barrel and/or accurizing work). Then, shop for your rifle (there are a lot of people who'll have better advice than I on what to look for in a Mauser).

But my biggest piece of advice is: Before you spend any time or money fixing the rifle you decide on, take it to a good gunsmith and have it checked out - it would be a shame to put a lot of time and money into a rifle that has a major problem.

Hey, it's a new experience to me, too - but I've learned a lot already!

Good Luck!
 
Hi, Scratch,

There are some pretty good Mauser 98s around today, if you can pick and get one that hasn't been dragged through too many mudholes.

For practical purposes, if you can find an 8mm (8x57, or 7.9) rifle with a good barrel, that caliber is as good as you can get for that general range of ammo. If you rebarrel, I would go with .308, as .30-'06 is too long and requires a lot of work on the magazine to get things right. Excellent barrels are available for the .30 caliber.

Unless you have a shop and equipment, you will want to locate a gunsmith who won't take forever or cost an arm and two legs. You can do some of the work yourself. A rundown:

Gunsmith:

Replace barrel, chamber and headspace.
Drill and tap for scope.
Forge bolt handle down (don't accept a weld-on)
Polish and blue whole gun.

You (perhaps):

Inlet stock, sand down and apply finish.
Install and fit after-market trigger and safety or
Keep original trigger, polish and fit low scope safety.

If the whole job is done by a good smith, the cost will exceed that of a brand new Remington 700 or equivalent.

But the rifle will be unique to you.

Jim
 
Above advice is excellent. I had most of this on a spread sheet- here are some prices.

Details of a previous winter Oberndorf style Mauser project:

FN milled Mauser action 80
7x57 Barrel installed 300
Stock, Fancy semi-inletted 100
Timney trigger 40
Neider buttplate 25
Front sights/rings/mounts 100
Mill and tap 5 holes 50
Forge bolt straight down 40
Sling/swivels/finish/bedding/blueing/Ebony forend tip (had to have that)

Turned into a spring and summer project too... Even with me doing alot of the work, it gets out of hand quickly. Especially when you can find used Rem 700s real cheap after hunting season around here. I saw one at the shop with engraving on the receiver for $500- sparked all kinds of rifle building fantasies... A good factory rifle is a bargain.

If you're just messing around, you should have no problem finding a suitable action. I must admit, even though the costs exceeded a production rifle, the gun is rock solid and looks great- about 2MOA best group, but it's an offhand shooter...
 
I just had an Argentine Mauser (1909 DWM)customized. The barreled action was $600,(.280 Rem.) finished in a matte blueing (almost black), stock was $250, The trapdoor buttplate and grip cap I already had from another rifle stock that was broken, gunsmith services including inletting the stock, checkering and final finish work $1400. (included new scope and mount)Final cost $2,200. Satisfaction value? Priceless.
Just as a suggestion, try and find a J.C. Higgins Model 50 at a gun show. These are made with commercial FN Mauser actions. They are most common in 30-06 and .270 Win. You can use it as is, reshape the stock to something less clubby, or go for a new stock. In my opinion, this is the least expensive way to go.
Paul B.
 
I have built several rifles on m98 actions.I like the czech vz-24 actions because they are good quality and easy to find. Check your local dealer he should be able to get one from a wholesale distributer.I normaly can pick them up for about $100.00. If you find one with a good barrel and like to roll your own consider rechambering to 8mm-06. check your horanady or speer manual for balistics.
 
There has been alot of good info given here. I need some more basics though. what do I look for in a mauser? what makes one better than another. What country manufactures are better than others etc. My local big 5 has some for $49 but I dought if these are the ones that I want.
Can some please enlighten me.
Thanks
Scratch
 
Hi, Scratch,

Assuming good condition, I would rate three makers tops on 98 Mausers - CZ (Czech) VZ-24, Belgian FN Model 24 commercial or Model 50 military (latter is .30-06), or German Mauser-made pre-war or early war. Polish WZ-24 is good also, but more valuable as a collectors item as they are scarce here.

I hate to "sporterize" a collectible, but there are many of these rifles that are so beat up they are really good only for the actions.

Jim
 
About a year ago a dealer friend ordered 10 CZECH VZ-24s for me from century arms.These were advertised as cracked stocks poor bores crests ground off.They were as advertised butt ugly with black bores.The actions were in excelent shape with only slight pitting below the wood line.The price was $50.00 each in lots of 5 with free shipping.I would not hesitate to rebarrel any one of them for 300 win mag.
 
Thanks Jim. what ones should be avoided? And when I go to look at one of these rifles what do I look for? I mostly shoot auto loaders in fact I have not one bolt rifle so again I know not what to look for.
Scratch
 
Jim, I don't understand why you are saying to steer clear of 30-06 type ctgs. when using a M-98 type action. While I have never put together a 30-06 on one I have done a 25-06 and several .280 Rems. It's been a while but I don't remember having to do much in the magazine area. I had an action handy and placed several 150 gr. factory rounds in the mag and everything looked ok to me. What have I forgotten?
Hank
 
I have several rifles built up on military Mauser actions. A .35 Whelan on an Oberndorf action, a .280 Rem. on a DWM, a .308 on a Steyr Mauser. The rest of my Mausers are on commercial FN actions.
If you get the feeling that I like mausers, you're right.
Paul B.
 
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