This is a little tricky to talk about.
There are two issues.I have purchased new extractors where the actual hook was not ground very well.The shape of the actualhook,where it engages the brass,is one issue.It is not shaped well to engage the cartridge case.
The other,note the long claw extractor is mostly a spring.It attaches at the extractor collar.That is a fulcrum point.The long end of the extractor is curved,and applies spring pressure to the bolt body via the pad that rests on the bolt body at the rear of the extractor.That spring tension translates via the collar(fulcrum) to spring tension engaging the hook into the case rim relief,the groove.
These work in balance.The cartridge case must have a little "snap in" to retain it on the bolt face as the bolt is drawn back to the ejector.Too loose,and the case drops.It can cause ejection problems.
I cannot explain it all here,but there is a slight amount of subtle shaping/blending that helps the case head "funnel" up under the extractor as the case rocks up the bolt face.
If you have a Dremel type stone,put it in your die grinder or little drill press on high rpm and with a piece of carborundum or an old grinding wheel held as a rock,dress the stone to about .406 diameter.Like,.400 to .410.
Put it in your drill press,fast .You want your bolt body with extractor only installed.remove bolt sleeve,striker assy.
Set your table/spindle height so the tail end of the bolt rests on it,and your stone will engage the extractor hook,but not the bolt face.You want the bolt face to be safe.Glaasses on,turn the drill press on,high speed,Rest the tail of the bolt on the table,and carefully eyeball the extractor hook a few sparks at a time into the stone so it cuts the hook to match a piece of brass on the bolt face.Cut just a little,try a piece of brass.You are shaping the extractor hook to fit the brass with some "snap" as the brass centers in the bolt face.Not much,but some.
Then later,stone a small entry blend on the lower back face and bottom corner to help the brass feed in.
The other part of this is the bend in the long tail of the xtractor.You can just adjust the bend,a light bump with a plastic hammer is one way.Now,this "bump" looks like one you could do with the extractor installed.Imagine the rifle fully assembled and on your shoulder,the "bump" comes from 3 oclock,on the center of the bridge of the extractor tail..Don't get crazy.A little adj and try.
OK,now,look to all the steel you have in the forward outside of the hook,where you have your interference.Look at where the ink transfer says you have a problem,look into the receiver at what is the other obstruction,and judiciously grind a little for clearance.
One other thing to check,though.Your bolt has the two locking lugs plus the safety lug.I once saw a bolt/receiver combination where the safety lug engaged and held the bolt forward.Unlikely,but worth checking.
No telling what the mix of parts might be on an old Mauser.
Did you have to block the rear of the mag and shorten the follower? Just curious.