Mauser K98 in 6mm remington

kalland1985

Inactive
Hello there, I am new to these forums and have recently put on layaway at my local gun shop a Mauser K98 sporter rifle clambered in 6mm Remington ... it has a German army Reichmark on the receiver and has the receiver markings of 17313 g, a Monte Carlo stock, old looking Burris scope mounts and a Burris euro style post reticle scope. I was wondering if anybody could give me any information on this rifle and I will be able to get more information and some pictures on Tuesday.
 
One of the original Mauser battle cartridges is the 7x57.The 6 mm Remington is the 7x57 case with the neck sized down to 6 mm.The cartridge should function quite properly through the action.

The ww2 German marking would mean it was a battle rifle converted to a sporter by a gunsmith.This was common in the past.

That can mean it is a fine,well crafted rifle,or it can mean something less than that.Done right,it can be a fine hunting rifle.Not all of them were done right.

If you have a local gunsmith,you might try to negotiate a sale contingent on a headspace check,and safe function of the trigger and safety.

Early Burris can be OK,though I have found the bases may not be precisely machined where they mate to the rifle.Yours may fit fine.

The way the market is,with the exception of very fine custom rifles,I would hope you get it for a reasonable price...there is a little joke about getting a $125 Mauser and spending $2000 to build a $400 rifle..cold,but there is some truth.
 
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Although I don't currently own a 6mm, I've loaded for and shot several in the past. I feel the 6mm is a better cartridge for the Mauser conversions-it fits the magazine space and shape of the feed lips better than something like the 243/308.
You really should check the rifling twist or at least do some accuracy testing before deciding on an ammo type. In the past, I found that the Hornady 87 grain SP bullet fit the "do everything" category quite well.
 
I was thinking the same thing about it being a converted 7mm Mauser some time in the 60's and as for the quality of the conversion, I couldn't tell it was a sporter conversion until I really picked it up and took a good look at it. It is in slightly worn, used, and loved condition but wasn't abused. As for the Burris scope and mounts, they seem to be a good fit and the glass is very clear. My local shop had the rifle on clearance for $220 and I put it on layaway for $50. The rifling is also very pronounced for an older rifle and shows no sign of rust or pitting.
 
For $220 there is not a great risk factor.You say the workmanship looks professional.Yes.,determine twist rate,but sounds like a good deal.Enjoy!
 
Yeah I thought it was a great deal as well thank you. How does a person go about figuring out the twist rate on a rifle? Also is there anybody out there may be able to give me any information based on the receiver code?
 
it has a German army Reichmark on the receiver and has the receiver markings of 17313 g

It has money on it? ;)

Does it have a Nazi Eagle with swastika, or a Weimar eagles?

Photo of Weimar eagles and early Waffenamts here: http://www.empirearms.com/5600b.jpg

Does it have Waffenamt marks that the numbers are legible?

Of all places, Wikipedia has a good list of Waffenamt codes
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waffenamt_codes

The number is probably a serial number, but without the receiver code it is not all that helpful, and if it has a scope, the receiver code is probably covered by the front base.

The number you list also looks like it has too many numbers. Most Nazi era K98s has a 4 digit serial number, with a letter suffix. When they ran out of numbers, they went to the next letter. 1-9999, followed by 1-9999a, then 1-9999b, etc.

Now some of the factories used 5 digit S/Ns, I don't think any went that high.

There is a list of factory codes and serial number ranges here: http://mauser98k.internetdsl.pl/kodyen.html

For an unmarked barrel, the way to measure is a tight fitting patch on a cleaning rod.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdoCNZBlRGQ
 
Great action, great cartridge, if the rifle is in good shape and the sporterizing was well done, I'd be all over it.

I currently have a sporterized k98 in the original 8x57 cartridge that will be rebarreled to 6mm rem and given a bit of a makeover whenever I get all my 8mm ammo shot up.

If you are unhappy with the rifle send it to me for a full refund ;)
 
Oops, my bad on the misnomer there, it has the eagle and swastika on the receiver and no apparent waffenampts when I did my first cursory lookover before I put it on layaway. I do plan on getting more details and some picture today when I head over to my gun shop.
 
The 6mm Rem needs a full length action to get the best from it so that bullets can be loaded out.
The short actions prevent best ballistics.
Jerry
 
Sounds like you struck gold ! That deal is a no brainer . Buy it , try it , and if you don't like it , sell it for a profit !
 
The 6mm Rem needs a full length action to get the best from it so that bullets can be loaded out.
The short actions prevent best ballistics.
Jerry

I doubt he will have any problems with the 6mm in a Mauser action seeing as how the 6mm rem is essentially a necked down 7x57 Mauser. Should feed just fine as well
 
The 6mm Rem needs a full length action to get the best from it so that bullets can be loaded out.
The short actions prevent best ballistics.
Jerry

:confused: What short action you talking about?

K98 Magazine is about 3.3" long. The loading port is a little longer, about 3.4"
The 6mm Remington case is 2.23" long, as is the parent case, the 7mm Mauser.
A .243 90 gr Berger HPBT is a little over an inch long.

The published max OAL for the 6mm Remington is 2.825.

He will be fine.
 
Looks like Steve beat me to it on my last post.

FYI, don't sweat it if you can't find much in the way of markings, the Nazi Eagle means it was made after 1937 (and obviously no later than 1945)

me said:
The number you list also looks like it has too many numbers. Most Nazi era K98s has a 4 digit serial number, with a letter suffix. When they ran out of numbers, they went to the next letter. 1-9999, followed by 1-9999a, then 1-9999b, etc.

Now some of the factories used 5 digit S/Ns, I don't think any went that high.

There is a list of factory codes and serial number ranges here: http://mauser98k.internetdsl.pl/kodyen.html

I did some poking around, and it looks like I (and that link) are wrong. I found a photo reference sticky on k98forums of a 1944 "K" block BYF (Mauser Oberndorf) rifle with a 5 digit S/N, higher than what you posted. If I was a betting man, I bet that is what you have.
 
Very good deal if It is in good condition, and looks professionally done. I have one that I had built from a K98 Mauser action over forty years ago. Back before the GCA of 1968 anybody could order surplus rifles, or in this case just the complete action from mail order houses. I sent the action off, and had a Douglas heavy varmint weight 26" barrel in 6MM Remington installed. Then had a local smith do the bolt, trigger, drill & tap work, and bluing. I ordered a Fajen Custom Varmentor stock, and had the inletting, checkering, and finish done by a local stock maker.
Turned out to be a very accurate long range chuck and crow buster.
 
Well I went yesterday to my local shop and took a couple of pictures but they are failing to upload so here are links to them.

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag29/kalland01/CAM00027_zpsd383a6a1.jpg

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag29/kalland01/CAM00026_zps6be55a74.jpg

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag29/kalland01/CAM00024_zpsc646f558.jpg

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag29/kalland01/CAM00023_zps590c4271.jpg

http://i1297.photobucket.com/albums/ag29/kalland01/CAM00020_zps46b7116f.jpg

I realize that the number that I stated in my earlier posts was one digit off but I am proud that I was able to remember that much of it personally lol.

The eagle and swastika are not that clear but there it is along with all other significant markings found on the rifle. There is no cartridge indicator marking on the barrel or any markings on the barrel at all but 6mm Rem brass fits without resistance.
 
And, yes, I also realize that the scope and scope mounts are both Weaver ... again that is a symptom of my memory ... or more precisely the lack of it. Either way the glass is clear and the reticle is pronounced. Would anybody have any info on this scope? Also, I just noticed that the barrel in the pictures looks relatively large for the caliber ...
 
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Determining the twist rate: Use a patch on the cleaning rod that is tight enough that the rod turns when pushed through the barrel.

After starting the patch down the barrel from the muzzle, about four inches in or thereabouts, mark the rod at the muzzle. Pentel pen or just a piece of tape wrapped around.

Make another mark along the length of the rod a little over a foot away from the muzzle.

Push the rod on down the barrel until the index mark makes one full revolution. Mark that spot on the rod, at the muzzle.

The distance between the two marks is the twist rate. One turn in X inches.
 
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