Mauser k98 ammo
- Thread starter Prothe2nd
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Cheapshooter
New member
Just make sure you clean your rifle well. Hot water, and detergent like a black powder gun. That is the most recomended method. Or a mixture of household ammonia and water. Follow up with another cleaning with solvent, or a CLP product. Then agoodcoating in and outwith aprote tiveoil.
The ammo youhave most likelyuses corrosive primers, and a rifle can rapidly become a bucket of rust without proper cleaning.
The ammo youhave most likelyuses corrosive primers, and a rifle can rapidly become a bucket of rust without proper cleaning.
It is longer because it is a heavier bullet. The Yugo is ~198gr, same as the 1934 German load. The Hotshot is 170 grain.
Never heard that, and never had an issue with split cases. The 50s Yugo stuff does tend to have hard primers, and may need a heavier firing pin spring (about 5$ last time I looked). Or just recock and give them a second hit, that normally works.
All you need to clean after firing corrosive ammo is water. It is "corrosive" because the primers leave salt residue after firing, all you need to do is wash away the salts, and the easiest thing to do that is water.
Like emcon5 says, hot water is all that is necessary for flushing after shooting corrosive ammo, then a regular cleaning. Ammonia and soap, etc. does nothing but stink.
Corrosively primed ammo isn't going to rust your barrel instantly either. Mind you, if you flush and don't clean soonest, the water can cause rust. Still not instantly, but soon.
Corrosively primed ammo isn't going to rust your barrel instantly either. Mind you, if you flush and don't clean soonest, the water can cause rust. Still not instantly, but soon.
Cheapshooter
New member
I wouldn't say "all". You may have other procedures, but I don't leave any gun without some sort of anti corrosion coating. A very light coating, but something between metal, especially the bare metal of the bore, and the hunidity in the air.
The cases shown by Mk VII show splits caused by internal corrosion, nothing to do with the rifle in which they were fired.
That kind of "split" is almost always the result of corrosion from inside the case, caused by acid that was not completely removed from the powder when it was made. It is pretty common in wartime ammo when production is speeded up and the ammo is not expected to be in storage long.
Jim
That kind of "split" is almost always the result of corrosion from inside the case, caused by acid that was not completely removed from the powder when it was made. It is pretty common in wartime ammo when production is speeded up and the ammo is not expected to be in storage long.
Jim
I figured that went without saying, but yeah. I pour hot water down the bore, followed by WD40 to get rid of the water, followed by a shot of break free, and a couple patches. I also swirl the bolt head around in a cup of hot water, followed by WD40 and a shot of Break Free.
Depending on where you live, you may not need to clean immediately after shooting. I live in the desert, I could probably go a couple weeks without seeing rust, the humidity is so low. I never do, the longest I delay is the next morning, and even that is rare, but I could.
If you live in the south where it is humid, clean as soon as practical.
Huffmanite
New member
FWIW, Own several K98 mauser rifles.
Bought a box of the 170 gr FMJ ball 8mm mauser steel case ammo sold by Sportsmans Guide about 8 months ago. It is new manufacture made in Romania by Mechanical Plant Sadu and imported by PW Arms, Inc. Still have about 1/2 a box of it that would not chamber in my rifles. Those that I could close the bolt on and shoot, required some hard pressure on the bolt handle. As I recall, the shoulder on this new manufacture ammo seemed to be incorrect.
Bought a box of the 170 gr FMJ ball 8mm mauser steel case ammo sold by Sportsmans Guide about 8 months ago. It is new manufacture made in Romania by Mechanical Plant Sadu and imported by PW Arms, Inc. Still have about 1/2 a box of it that would not chamber in my rifles. Those that I could close the bolt on and shoot, required some hard pressure on the bolt handle. As I recall, the shoulder on this new manufacture ammo seemed to be incorrect.
Guys have argued over post-corrosive ammo shooting cleaning just like "what oil is the best" or "9mm or .45" ? Warm water, Windex either works fine, both will neutralize the salt corrosion process. I've used both on my Yugo M98 and my AK-47 either works fine. More importantly IMO is post water/windex rust prevention. I too swab with WD-40 , then a final swab with Mobil 1 syn oil. I don't shoot corrosive ammo much but I do have some. I store my M98 ad my AK47 with the mindset that I might not shoot them again for years so I want maximum rust prevention.
Yes, it is.
I am of the opinion that surplus ammunition is on the market because an Ammunition Technician went through the stuff and determined it was unsafe to issue and unsafe to store. This is assuming that the previous military was a professional military and has procedures for testing and removing old ammunition. These are examples of American policy:
Ammunition Surveillance Procedures SB 742-1
https://acc.dau.mil/adl/en-US/238111/file/68728/SB 742-1 AIN47-13A.pdf
Chapter 13 Propellant and Propelling Charges ,
page 13-1
WARNING
Nitrocellulose-based propellant can become thermally unstable as the age. The normal aging process of the propellants involves deterioration of the nitrocellulose with an accompanying generation of heat. At some point, the propellant may reach a state where heat is generated faster than it can be dissipated. The accumulation of heat can lead to combustion (autoignition). Chemical stabilizers are added to propellants to slow the aging process. In time, the stabilizer levels will drop to a point where the remaining effective stabilizer (RES) is not sufficient to prevent an accelerating rate of decomposition. When this point is reached, the propellant may autoigniet, with possible catastrophic results to property and life. Monitoring the stability level of each propellant lot is essential for continued safe storage.
Page 13-5 , Table 13.2 Propellant Stability Codes.
Stability Category A 0.30 or more Percent Effective Stabilizer
Acceptable stabilizer loss: safe for continued storage
C 0.29-0.20 Percent Effective Stabilizer
Significant stabilizer loss. Lot does not represent an immediate hazard, but is approaching a potentially hazardous stability condition. Loss of stabilizer does adversely affect function in an uploaded configuration. Disposition instructions will be furnished by NAR. All stability category “C” assests on the installation must be reported in writing…
One year after becoming stability category “C” a sample of the bulk propellant lot or the bulk-packed component lot will be retested. If the lot has not deteriorated to category “D”, it will be retested each year until it has been expended, or it has deteriorated to category “D”, at which point it will be demilitarized within 60 days.
D Less than 0.20 Percent Effective Stabilizer
Unacceptable stabilizer loss. Lots identified as stability category “D” present a potential safety hazard and are unsafe for continued storage as bulk, bulk-packed components , or as separate loading propellant chargers. Bulk propellant, bulk –packed components and separate loading propelling charges will be demilitarized within 60 days after notification of category “D” status.
Malfunction and Defect Reporting, Why it matters: Fall 2014 USMC Ammunition Quarterly
It is impossible to predict with any exactness just when gunpowder goes bad. It will go bad in decades and be bad before a century is gone. Sometimes powders go bad in less than a decade. IMR 4007 was introduced in 2007 and some powder lots are so dangerous that IMR has paid for these recall notices to be issued:
http://www.ssusa.org/articles/2015/9/2/product-recall-notice-imr-4007-ssc-powder/
by SSUSA Staff - Wednesday, September 2, 2015
Product Recall Notice: IMR 4007 SSC Powder
When gunpowder breaks down it outgasses nitric acid gas, among other nasty compounds. I believe the picture of the case split, is an example of what happens when nitric acid gas attacks brass. Nitric acid gas will cause brass embrittlement, typically you see it in case neck cracks or body cracks, because the brass is thinner in these sections. However given a brass flaw further down the case, and it is very possible to have a case head crack. This is dangerous and would blow the receiver ring on very old military rifles made out of weak materials.
Old surplus ammunition was removed from inventory because it was just at the point of instability. No one should expect that its lifetime is going be longer forward, than it was in the past. It has reached its shelf life and was discarded. Old surplus ammunition should be shot up as soon as possible. If pressure problems are encountered, it should not be fired, instead the bullets should be pulled, the powder dumped, and the cases examined for internal corrosion. If the cases were not cracking before they may be structurally good enough to use again with nice new gunpowder. If pressure problems are encountered, such as pierced primers, sticking bolt lift, this is a serious issue because pressures rise with old gunpowder and many firearms have been blown up with old ammunition.
This thread is worth reading if not just for the pictures:
.http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?230264-When-milsurp-ammo-goes-bad
When milsurp ammo goes bad........