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Mauser bolt
- Thread starter salvadore
- Start date
SpringOWeiler
New member
So is the bolt in the locked and uncocked position? Like you just fired a round but your bolt is not in your rifle?
Last edited:
Another way(all that work are good)
Under the striker ,under the bolt sleeve,is the square lug that is the bolt sear surface.Hook that on a wood bench corner and pull the bolt forward.You will be pulling the striker back,compressing the striker spring.Should be about 20 lbs,+ or -.Holding it that way with one hand ,engage the safety with the other.
I suggest that wood bench corner,or something softer than steel,It is the sear surface you are engaging.
Under the striker ,under the bolt sleeve,is the square lug that is the bolt sear surface.Hook that on a wood bench corner and pull the bolt forward.You will be pulling the striker back,compressing the striker spring.Should be about 20 lbs,+ or -.Holding it that way with one hand ,engage the safety with the other.
I suggest that wood bench corner,or something softer than steel,It is the sear surface you are engaging.
Took the bolt out of my Yugo Mauser, forgot to put the safety up and began unscrewing until it locked up, now I can't figure out how to get it unstuck. Any help would be appreciated.
I know, everyone understands what you have posted, no one said "I am so confused", and I am sure you understand their responses.
Locked-up? Help me out, did you manage to remove any parts from the bolt before it locked up? there is a small detent on the left side of the bolt on the bolt sleeve that could require pushing back before removing the firing pin assemble.
Problem, the firing pin assemble can not be rotated in the fired position. to remove the firing pin assemble the bolt must be cocked, your rifle is a cock on open. To install the bolt the safety is engaged, without the safety6 the bolt assemble will be 'out of time' meaning the bolt will be in the fired position.
F. Guffey
You are correct,you would not have this problem had you put the safety on first.The safety holds the striker back in the cocked,spring compressed condition.
When you began to unscrew,you rotated the cocking piece/bolt body relationship to the "bolt locked,ok,fire"position.As there is no trigger sear in your hands,the striker went forward .The striker is forward in the cocking cam cam recess of the bolt body,so it cannot rotate.
To solve your problem,the striker...the firing pin,must be drawn back about 3/8 of an inch against the force of the spring,to the "cocked" position.Except it won't cock,as the trigger/sear are in the receiver.
Once it is drawn back,the safety will be able to rotate into the notch to hold the striker to the rear.
Look at your bolt,think about what I just told you,so you can see and understand where you are going.
Now,whether you use a vise as Gary suggested,or just hook the bench as I suggested,that rectangle block about 1/4 in wide under the striker needs to be pulled back compressing the spring.About 3/8 to 1/2 inch is how far it needs to be pulled back. Use one hand while the safety gets engaged with the other hand.Once you do that,you will be able to easily unscrew the striker/cocking piece assy.
Yes,you do have to remember that little detent button on the left side of the bolt sleeve.You found it once already.
I don't know what else to tell you.
When you began to unscrew,you rotated the cocking piece/bolt body relationship to the "bolt locked,ok,fire"position.As there is no trigger sear in your hands,the striker went forward .The striker is forward in the cocking cam cam recess of the bolt body,so it cannot rotate.
To solve your problem,the striker...the firing pin,must be drawn back about 3/8 of an inch against the force of the spring,to the "cocked" position.Except it won't cock,as the trigger/sear are in the receiver.
Once it is drawn back,the safety will be able to rotate into the notch to hold the striker to the rear.
Look at your bolt,think about what I just told you,so you can see and understand where you are going.
Now,whether you use a vise as Gary suggested,or just hook the bench as I suggested,that rectangle block about 1/4 in wide under the striker needs to be pulled back compressing the spring.About 3/8 to 1/2 inch is how far it needs to be pulled back. Use one hand while the safety gets engaged with the other hand.Once you do that,you will be able to easily unscrew the striker/cocking piece assy.
Yes,you do have to remember that little detent button on the left side of the bolt sleeve.You found it once already.
I don't know what else to tell you.
FrankenMauser
New member
Do as HiBC suggested.
But... don't be surprised if it takes much more force to draw the striker and "cocking piece" back. Most Yugo Mausers have 40-60 lb springs.
If you will be using the 'edge of a wooden bench' method, you'll need three hands:
One to hold the bolt body securely.
One to hold the bolt against the bench. (It REALLY wants to slip off, when you get 40+ lbs of force on the edge.)
One had to flip the safety lever, once the striker is drawn far enough rearward.
The job can be done solo, but it takes some careful hand placement and gratuitous profanity.
But... don't be surprised if it takes much more force to draw the striker and "cocking piece" back. Most Yugo Mausers have 40-60 lb springs.
If you will be using the 'edge of a wooden bench' method, you'll need three hands:
One to hold the bolt body securely.
One to hold the bolt against the bench. (It REALLY wants to slip off, when you get 40+ lbs of force on the edge.)
One had to flip the safety lever, once the striker is drawn far enough rearward.
The job can be done solo, but it takes some careful hand placement and gratuitous profanity.
If you will be using the 'edge of a wooden bench' method, you'll need three hands:
And for those that are handy there is another way, for owners of one Mauser type 98 bolt it does not pay to be handy.
F. Guffey
Yugo Bolt Priblems
Just bought a Yugo 24/47, nice rifle, good price. Gave it to a friend who said he would "sonic clean" the bolt. Anyway I got the bolt back, it's out of sync, won't fit back in. The tip of the firing pin is exposed, and trying to put the bolt into the rifle shows the safety is 180 out, on the bottom, towards the stock.
I'm a pistol guy, this is new to me. I've read the above post, and I don't know the correct terms of the bolt parts. Can someone please let me know where to go for info on how to correct this problem?
Thanks, guys I know I can't be the first with this. John
Just bought a Yugo 24/47, nice rifle, good price. Gave it to a friend who said he would "sonic clean" the bolt. Anyway I got the bolt back, it's out of sync, won't fit back in. The tip of the firing pin is exposed, and trying to put the bolt into the rifle shows the safety is 180 out, on the bottom, towards the stock.
I'm a pistol guy, this is new to me. I've read the above post, and I don't know the correct terms of the bolt parts. Can someone please let me know where to go for info on how to correct this problem?
Thanks, guys I know I can't be the first with this. John
If the firing pin is exposed, the bolt is in the "fired" position.
Easiest thing to do is put on some thick leather gloves, and twist the bolt shroud into the cocked position.
M98 mausers are cock on opening actions, so the bolt is always cocked on removal.
Search for a youtube video on how to cock a Mauser bolt outside of the rifle if you need a visual.
Jimro
Easiest thing to do is put on some thick leather gloves, and twist the bolt shroud into the cocked position.
M98 mausers are cock on opening actions, so the bolt is always cocked on removal.
Search for a youtube video on how to cock a Mauser bolt outside of the rifle if you need a visual.
Jimro