I recently bought a Mauser mod. 98 from 1944 that on all the parts has matching serial numbers, so I supposed all parts are original minus the fact it wasn't on its original stock. It has a different safety than other Mausers I see pictures of. And it locks when safety is engaged (not what Mauser bolts normally do). And because of that, it makes disassembly near impossible because I have to push that one peice up to turn it, if the safety would let me open the bolt when engaged it would let me twist it off just fine (anyone who knows a lot about mausers will know what I'm talking about). Do I have a replaced safety? Another thing, my safety goes down to the right (Mauser safeties typically go down to the left). If so what am I supposed to do to dissemble my bolt? Or am I better off just buying a whole new bolt that works like original? Any thing you can tell me will be appreciated and I'll try to figure out how to post pictures on this things.
mauser bolt disassembly help.
- Thread starter Prothe2nd
- Start date
Looks like a safety made for scope use.
Not a problem however.
Take a set of vice grips and grab the cocking piece as it sticks out the rear of the bolt shroud. Clamp down so the jaws are against the bolt shroud and make it tight enough to not slip.
Now, there is a small button that is the bold shroud lock on the side of the shroud. Push it in as you unscrew the shroud itself. Go about 6 turns and the whole thing will come out.
Next let go with the vice grips and the cocking piece will snap in to it's forward position along with the firing pin.
Grab the bolt shroud in your fist and hold the pin down like you would an ice pick.
Press the pin down against something firm like a block of wood and the cocking piece will protrude out of the shroud. Turn it 90 degrees and lift it off. Then relax the pressure and the pin and spring will life the shroud off the pin.
The last 2 things to remove will be the safety and the bolt shroud lock itself.
The safety simply rotates to the unlocked position and slides out the rear.
The bolt shroud lock has to be pressed in to the point the locator pin can be rotated out of it's slot with a slim nail or pin.
That's it.
Not a problem however.
Take a set of vice grips and grab the cocking piece as it sticks out the rear of the bolt shroud. Clamp down so the jaws are against the bolt shroud and make it tight enough to not slip.
Now, there is a small button that is the bold shroud lock on the side of the shroud. Push it in as you unscrew the shroud itself. Go about 6 turns and the whole thing will come out.
Next let go with the vice grips and the cocking piece will snap in to it's forward position along with the firing pin.
Grab the bolt shroud in your fist and hold the pin down like you would an ice pick.
Press the pin down against something firm like a block of wood and the cocking piece will protrude out of the shroud. Turn it 90 degrees and lift it off. Then relax the pressure and the pin and spring will life the shroud off the pin.
The last 2 things to remove will be the safety and the bolt shroud lock itself.
The safety simply rotates to the unlocked position and slides out the rear.
The bolt shroud lock has to be pressed in to the point the locator pin can be rotated out of it's slot with a slim nail or pin.
That's it.
"Take a set of vice grips and grab the cocking piece as it sticks out the rear of the bolt shroud. Clamp down so the jaws are against the bolt shroud and make it tight enough to not slip."
Absolutely guaranteed to leave a mark unless some sort of padding material is used.
BTW OP, your safety is not the original military safety.
Absolutely guaranteed to leave a mark unless some sort of padding material is used.
BTW OP, your safety is not the original military safety.
Well let me make this as delicate as I can.
I have been making custom Mauser now for 48 years
The cocking piece on most are case hardened. I have probably disassembled 2000 of them in my life and I personal own 7 rifles of my own making all based on Mauser 98s. one 25-06, two 270s, two 30-06s one 300 H&H and one 375H&H
"Absolutely guaranteed to leave a mark"..... ?
Really?
Here....look at some of these pictures and see if you can find the mark made by the vice grips. I wish the pics were better, but if you look closely you'll see nothing but bright steel.
In 48 years of making them I have not "marked' one yet.
As I said in the 1st post you need to tighten the vice grips enough to hold but you are not trying to grab it like a $10,000,000 Loto ticket.
Don't worry about marking it. It won't. Just use a bit of common sense
I have been making custom Mauser now for 48 years
The cocking piece on most are case hardened. I have probably disassembled 2000 of them in my life and I personal own 7 rifles of my own making all based on Mauser 98s. one 25-06, two 270s, two 30-06s one 300 H&H and one 375H&H
"Absolutely guaranteed to leave a mark"..... ?
Really?
Here....look at some of these pictures and see if you can find the mark made by the vice grips. I wish the pics were better, but if you look closely you'll see nothing but bright steel.
In 48 years of making them I have not "marked' one yet.
As I said in the 1st post you need to tighten the vice grips enough to hold but you are not trying to grab it like a $10,000,000 Loto ticket.
Don't worry about marking it. It won't. Just use a bit of common sense