Mauser actions

U

unforgiven

Inactive
Which Mauser actions are suitable for rebarreling? Is the Turkish 38 in 8X57 a good cantidate? or is a persian or Chech a better choice? Where does one find quality barrels? What is the biggest caliber that would be safe to use?
Thank you in advance.
 
Can answer part of your question.Leave the turk ones alone.Friend bought one and had to have it reheat treated.Too soft.The Check is good and the swedish is the best.


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Bob--- Age and deceit will overcome youth and speed.
I'm old and deceitful.
 
Best choice today is one of the Czech VZ-24's. They can be had wholesale with a cracked stock for around $50 right now. You'll have to bend the bolt handle, but otherwise they are sound, stout rifles. I bought three and kept two. I wanted to shoot them all and keep the best. Once I shot them all, I had a hard time parting with even one. I think they are fine as they are but, then again, I reload.
 
Presumably the Czech action being discussed is the Vz24 (Vzor = Model). It is an 1898 Mauser action, the best and strongest. Prseumably the Swedish action being discussed is the Model 1894/1896, which is the older Mauser action and is not as strong as the 1898 action. The Swedish rifles are very nice and well made, but I would not take one over a Vz24 all other things being equal.

Jim
 
I bought allot of Turks for $54 before I read Kuenhausen's book on Mausers. Now I spend $76 for VZ24s. The Czecks are worth the extra money for rebarreling. They are hard [heat treated]and they have the right threads [large ring barrel threads].
 
Some custom gunsmiths feel it is wise to reheat treat any action they are customizing. Others do not.
There should be no difference in heat treatment between Czech and Turkish Mausers. The Turks were made in Germany, not Turkey. The Czechs had nothing on the Germans in this respect, in fact they bought their technology from the Germans.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Herodotus:
The Czechs had nothing on the Germans in this respect, in fact they bought their technology from the Germans.[/quote]

Bite thy tongue, heathen. In truth, the Germans invaded and seized much of their technology from the Prussians, Austrians, and Czechs (does anybody get this?). Remember that Germany and the Czech Republic share a great deal of history and interaction. They both have quite the history of firearms manufacture and I'd place them both in the same category with respect to Mauser 98 actions.
 
Unforgiven, I too, would recommend the VZ-24 but the 03 and 38 Turks are large ring standard 98 Mausers made in Europe. Some were reworked by the Turks but they made none of their own. Most were made in Germany but some by Brno and some in Yugoslavia. I've rebarreled a bunch of these actions with no problems. The basic difference is that while they are large ring in size the barrel shank is the same size as a small ring 93 or 95 Mauser. But that is nominal. Measure your old shank before you buy a prethreaded barrel. George

[This message has been edited by George Stringer (edited August 28, 2000).]
 
Are any of you familiar with Century Arms? I have a .270 by them. The dealer that i purchased it from said it was a sporterized 98K. Would like to trace history on the action. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 
The rifle that is being built on reheated turk action is being built in Fred Wells shop.They checked the hardness and said it had to be heat treated,too soft.Another friend that builds a lot of 1/4 min angle rifles said the 6.5x55 action is the best one of the three.
I do trust these people and Fred has been in the bus longer then most people have been alive.

------------------
Bob--- Age and deceit will overcome youth and speed.
I'm old and deceitful.
 
George, I've tried doing that on the Harley Nolden forum w/minimal results but I'll give it one more shot. Here ya go.

On the back of the safety it has Mark II.

On the underside of the bolt its crudely engraved 11XX.

On the bolt release it has a46

On the action it has B 11XX B
Nn

Ok here on the recoil lug 3 o 5 3

and towards the action on the underside the stamps are randomly stamped. I tried reading them the best i could.

E
O
W
y x
V

I hope this didnt confuse you.
 
I think the CZ or VZ checs are the best for building, but no one answered Unforgivens post on what is the biggest caliber that can be chambered in a strong 98 action?could a
.458 mag?
 
Shortround, the safety is an aftermarket Dayton-Traister. The proof marks don't help me. They might someone else but I was hoping there might be a date on the receiver as well as markings on the left side of it. Kuhnhausen's Shop Manual might help you to identify it. It's available from Brownells. www.brownells.com

98 Mausers have been chambered for just about every cartridge out there. .375H&H, .416 Taylor, .458 Rem Mag etc. George

[This message has been edited by George Stringer (edited August 30, 2000).]
 
Thank you for all the replies!

I would still like to know what barrel's you would recommend and where to get them i have seen (lost the url) them for65$ up to 300$, and would like to know what differences there is between them!
Thanks again!!
 
Hi, Shortround73,

The B 11xx B is the serial number of the rifle. The 11xx electric pencilled on the bolt is the result of a bolt replacement. The new bolt had a different serial number so the old number was removed and the new number electric pencilled on so it would again match the receiver. Presumably, headspace and fit were checked at that time.

The other numbers, except for the trigger, are various inspection marks, probably from the original factory.

Jim
 
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