Marlin model 90 help

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ww2freak27

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Is anybody out there familiar with the 12 guage marlin model 90 over-under shotgun? I just want to be able to take the buttstock and forearm off of the metal parts. On the bottom side of the forearm (where your palm touches), there are two screws. When I take them out, it seems like there is a lot of resistance that keeps me from pulling it off. Do I need to pull down or towards the muzzle to get the handguard off or is there a special method used to get it off? Then on the buttstock, there is a screw at the back of the trigger guard and another one below the break-barrel lever but at the same time above the safety lever. It's right in between those two parts. Is this what you loosen to pull the buttstock off or is there another way that I'm not aware of? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry I couldn't figure it out on my own, I'm more of a mil surp rifle guy and I couldn't find a take-down manual anywhere for the gun. Thanks again in advance for any assistance:)
 
As with most shotguns, there's a stock bolt that's accessed via a hole found under the butt pad. Here's a parts illustration and instructions:

Marlin90ST1.jpg
Marlin90ST_2.jpg
 
Thanks a lot Zippy! So now the only question is how do I remove the forearm? When I remove the two screws, do I pull forward? Also, I have the double trigger version (dt). Is there any difference between this model and the single trigger model in terms of how I disassemble the gun?
 
I've got one sitting in pieces in my garage now. I took it apart to refinish the stock but never got around to putting it back together. Yes, the forarm should slide slightly forward then separate downward from the barrels. Mine is the double trigger also. I didn't have any problems getting it apart.

There are two very small parts that are likely to come off and get lost, so be careful. The first is the automatic safety bar. Toss that away. They only get bent and stick and you are far better off without it. The second piece that is likely to pop out if you aren't careful us a tiny pin. I forget which one it is on the chart, but I had to pick up a replacement for mine at the hardware store.

Here is a better chart from Numrich:
http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Products.aspx?catid=11806
 
Sorry, I don't have Model 90 to study -- I just posted the old American Rifleman extract. From the parts diagram, it appears that the two screws in question are the key. With them removed, as you suggested, it seems the wood slides forward. If it resists, don't force it -- it's 50+ years old. The wood removal should be the same between single and dual trigger models. The actual dual triggers are similar, see below (the auto safety has been removed from the single). You can see, the M-90 doesn't have traditional hammers, but employs striker-type firing pins. With the wood off (which may not be easy), you should be able to do a thorough cleaning and lube without any further disassembly. From your OP, I'm guessing you're considering refinishing or replacing the wood.

triggers.jpg
 
Hey guys, thanks for all the advice! I am trying to take the buttstock off so that I can get to the internals to clean and inspect. It is an old gun and I want to make sure that I give it a thorough cleaning. The forearm, I want to take off so that I can clean the barrels covered up by the wood and do some blue touch up where needed (BTW suprisingly the gun has been taken pretty well care of as the wood is in almost pristine shape. I need to do some touch up blueing because some moron took what looks like steel wool to the barrels and the blotches look pretty horrendous:mad::eek::barf:. I may just end up fully re-blueing the barrels if I can't get the look I desire by just touch up.) Thanks again for all the help :)
 
Umm. Have you pulled the take down latch under the forarm to remove from the barrels? If an older model with out the take down latch it may have a spring loaded latch. If so simply pull the for arm down away from the barrels. The two screws attach the mounting iron, LEAVE it alone! The butt stock is attached via a thru bolt that you access under the butt plate. Best advice is to leave it alone if not schooled in gunsmithing.
 
Oops… I may have led you astray. I just realized you didn't have the forearm off of the gun, yet.
Paul s, is correct: Don't remove the forearm screws until after the forearm is removed from the gun. Typically they have a take-down catch (like the 90 ST) or just snap off (with the gun empty, cocked and on safe, pull down on the front of the forearm). If the forearm or butt stock are at all stubborn, see a gunsmith. Whatever you do, don't use an poor fitting screw screw driver in an attempt to remove the stock screw. Get a new one and/or grind one to exactly fit (actually, this applies to all gun screws). If you mess up the stock screw head you're in for a world of woe. Taking old guns apart is not a task for the impatient.
 
The Model 90 frame is made from a malleable iron. The iron alloy used will turn a purple color over time when blued using conventional methods. I suggest you post on the 16 ga. Society web site requesting recommendations on re-bluing Model 90 frames and barrels. There are a number of folks who frequent that site who have successfully re-blued Model 90's.
 
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