This is an older post, but I think my information could still be helpful.
For reference, I do have a Marlin 795 and I do get Light Primer Strikes, and I am using CCI ammunition.
First you kinked the Spring and bent the Pin, those need to be replaced. It a bit difficult to get the Spring/Pin back in place, but it can and is done every day. This is not a job for the Ham-Fisted. It takes some finesse. So, the Spring and the Pin need to be replaced, though that is not the sole source of your problem.
Al the parts are available for the Marlin 795 including Firing Pin, Recoil Spring, and Recoil Pin. Here is one place that has them all but in searching I found other places too. A simply Google search is all it took.
https://www.brownells.com/parts/Marlin/795/index.htm?f_a=1
I do notice that the Bolt Face does get crudded up pretty easily, so if you have a lot of oil on the Firing Pin, it is possible the blend of crud and oil are restricting its movement.
Here are a couple of general videos that might be helpful, and there are other videos on YouTube addressing General Misfires and specifically Light Primer Strikes with the 795.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-MEUWw1G-I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bd9WaUEeJTA
Years ago, I did have a Marlin 60, which is pretty much the same gun, and never really had a problem with that, but my NEW Marlin might be a bit more sensitive to Light Strikes.
Though I too did make a mistake. I used an Aluminum Dummy Round as a Snap Cap so I could take Spring Tension of the Hammer Spring while the gun was stored for the Winter. That probably did not help the condition of the Firing Pin. I think in the future, I will just use Spent Shells to Dry Fire the Gun.
But replacing the Firing Pin does not seem that complex. It seems to be held in by a single Pin. Cost for a Firing Pin = $8.99 -
https://www.brownells.com/rifle-par...n-prod8343.aspx?avs|Make~~Model_1=Marlin__795
Though I have not tried it, and I will investigate pretty deeply before I do, I wonder if I slightly expanded the hole in the Firing Pin to allow it to move a bit farther forward.
I don't know if the Firing Pin is stamped, but if it has any rough edges, it might be best to smooth those off.
Needless to say, keep Dry Firing to the absolute minimum, and if possible down to ZERO. There are a few modern guns that are designed to allow Dry Firing, but even with one of those guns, I would still resist. And the Marlin 60 and Marlin 795 are not among those guns designed for Dry Fire. Get a Snap Cap or use a spent round if you want to Dry Fire before long term storage.
Also, how much Oil Residue do you leave on your guns. Generally, while you oil the parts, you then should wipe the oil off; as close to dry as you can get them. Any areas exposed to Blow-Back Gas, are going to fowl pretty quickly if they have a residue of oil on them.
This next video isn't much help, but read the text under it. This guy had lots of Dry Fires and replaced the Firing Pin Return Spring and the Firing Pin itself, and that seemed to solve the problem. If you look at the link above, the cost of the parts are pretty trivial.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8l61eS4vSE
Though this Thread was started in 2016, it would have been nice if the Original Poster has followed up can told us what the resolution to his problem was. I noticed he posted in other Gun Forums, and didn't seem to follow up there.
Having the solution in print would have helped many other people with similar problems.
Even though the post was old, hopefully, I have still contributed something.
Steve/Bluewizard