Marlin 336 covered in (spray?) paint

dakota.potts

New member
A co-worker of mine found out I was going to school for gunsmithing and asked me to look at a Marlin 336C he had bought used from a local gun shop. He said the action was getting sticky while shooting and he wanted me to pull it apart, clean it, and make sure it's in good functioning order. I have a little bit of experience dissecting Marlins so I took it off his hands to look at it a little bit. I didn't get a good look at the rifle until I got it home in the light and noticed that, rather than bluing, the entire gun was covered in a thick black paint. Appears to be some kind of Krylon or maybe even grill paint. All of the metal in the gun, save for the loading gate, appears to have been all spray painted simultaneously in one pass. The finger lever is coated entirely as well which means it would have had to have been taken out and painted.

My co-worker recognized buying it that was not blued but didn't realize it was apparently charcoal black spray paint and it started to flake off during the first box of ammunition. There are huge missing chunks of "finish" now on the finger lever as well as around the assembly screws and in other random spots around the rifle. The paint actually extends past the crown into the last half inch or so of the muzzle.

Upon learning all this and of the fact that it likely needs to be entirely stripped and re finished (preferably blued) and of the possible costs associated with it, said co-worker is no longer so gung ho about his purchase. We're talking about a purchase price. I have my fingers crossed as we're settling somewhere around $150 for the rifle, nearly worthless NCStar scope and some remaining ammunition purchased with the rifle.

I looked it up and it's a 1974 make. The wood still looks to be in pretty good condition and has a pretty nice aged patina where it may not be necessary to refinish that. The action is pretty slick, probably the result of being used as something like a deer rifle for 40 years, and I can only imagine it slicks up more with a good cleaning.

It does need a great amount of work but I think I have the resources to take it back to a classic rifle. Sell the $30 airsoft grade scope that's on it, strip the paint, remove and re-crown the barrel in a lathe, install a rear adjustable receiver mounted peep sight, and high polish blue the metal. Maybe even nitre color the trigger gold with blue screws and color case harden the finger lever/cocking lever if everything else goes well. Make it into a nice hog rifle, although in all actuality it will probably see only a shooting bench 99% of the time.

Hopefully it goes through. It actually has the potential to be a good little rifle I think. I don't have any centerfire manual repeaters other than my Mosin Nagant, so I think it would fill a good niche for me.

I would love to upload pictures of the rifle's current condition but don't feel good about that until the deal is sealed and the rifle is mine. The current owner didn't do it to the rifle but I still don't know if that's a classy thing to do.

Anybody have insight into why somebody would do this or what you've done to a rifle like this? It's clearly not factory
 
Some answers:

-Some people are not very smart.

-Some people just don't care.

-Some people consume too much alcohol and then reach for firearms (while holding a can of Krylon).

-Some people think spray paint is a good rust inhibitor.

-Some people....
You get the point.


Anyway....
A 1974 Marlin 336 should be a good starting point. It was a decent time period for build quality, and the rifle will (as you know) not have the cross-bolt safety.

My "base price" for Marlin 336s in .30-30 is $180 for something shootable but pretty well beaten. For your run-of-the-mill neglected rifles that few people are interested in, except as 'truck guns', I usually figure $220-275.

For $150... DO IT!!
If you don't want it, I will buy it! (Provided you are willing to share contact info. ;))

I've been working this one over lately ('69 336 in .30-30) -- I believe you saw a post about the lever in the gunsmithing forum.
I got it for an absolute steal at $176.
Backstory: It was put away with the rest of the tack after a rainy horse ride, and the rifle was forgotten in a wet leather scabbard.
Though the overall finish is much better than you might expect, and it shoots like a dream (after the barrel chop); the magazine tube, last 3 inches of barrel, barrel bands, and stocks were pretty well toast. (The stocks look fine from three feet; but as soon as you feel them or inspect them up close, you find major water damage.)

...Not that it matters. It's getting converted to a tip-cap style fore-end, getting a custom magazine tube plug, getting a custom finger lever (straight grip), getting some really nice Maple stocks with a crescent-style butt plate, getting the fore-stock cut for a custom-length, and getting topped with some good iron sights. The barrel has already been chopped to 16.25" (still requires some profiling on the outside edge), and a Marlin 1894 'Sporter' .44 Mag magazine was cut to 12-9/16" for just the right proportions.

(That's a 336W magazine, for 'scale'. I have a few people following this project on the MarlinOwners forums, and like to try to keep some form of proportion and scale in the photos.)
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Just one shot of some of the damage - after some one wire-wheeled the whole rifle to clean it up.
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$150 is an OK price, not great but OK. Marlin rifles are pretty straightforward to refinish nicely. Since you're a gunsmithing student, you can use it as a class project gun. The receiver flats get grained and polished, the top and bottom of the receiver get bead blasted, the barrel, barrel bands, and lever get polished, the hammer and trigger get bead blasted and the flats polished. Refinish the wood, polish the bolt. Voila! If it needs parts, most of the parts for them are pretty cheap.
 
Prices must be a little better where you're at. I think it would have to be an unintentional take down for a JM to go for that here.

I have a cheap NC Star myself. Mine lives on an SR-22 and other than having a funny coloured lens, it's been a really good little scope. Held it's zero, decent clarity and pulled off lots of good shots.
 
Why someone would spray paint a rifles metal parts? Probably because its a beater Marlin. No one dare be that cruel to a Savage 99. Never to a pre or post 64 model 94. But a uncased trunk riding under the bumper jack type of Marlin. "Why not." :D
Do something different with it. You could Brown its metal finish. Then your friend would have a sweet 30-30 one of a kind no-glare camo kind'a 336. :cool:
 
Any chance the flaking paint will come off easily and you'll find the original finish still intact?
Try a little weak paint remover and you could get lucky mebbe.
 
Why someone would spray paint a rifles metal parts?

Most of our troops fighting in the sandbox have been spray painting rifles worth $2000+ with camo finishes. I've done rattle can paint jobs on several rifles and shotguns over the years. No I wouldn't do it to a rare, collectable rile, but this is one of about 7 million rifles with no particular collector or sentimental value. Any type of refinish job will cost far more than the rifle is worth.

There is nothing wrong with painting a weapon as long as you don't gum up moving parts, especially if well done. I might try to remove paint from the action so it works properly and re-paint it.

Some examples

https://www.google.com/search?q=pai...2&ved=0ahUKEwi0yZKevsPNAhUFMSYKHWGRA4kQsAQIGw
 
This is a great learner !!
Total take apart and get down to bare metal .Inspect each piece carefully , repair or replace and get the gun in safe working condition. You'll get lots of experience and knowledge just from one gun.
I went to gunsmithing school years ago and there's so much learning to do ,don't pass on the opportunity !! :)
 
You could almost certainly remove every drop of that pain with a solvent in a parts washer such as mechanics use. MEK,acetone, other possibilities. Sandblast and cerakote, and you may be finished to make a functional and maybe reasonably decent looking rifle.

One time when I was about twenty, I saw a guy driving a beat up old truck. The thing had the worst black paint job I had ever seen.

No look, seriously, you've got to believe this. He was one of those dudes that sealed driveways. One night, he and his buddies had gone through too many twelve packs. One of them remarked that his truck was butt ugly, and that he was embarrassed to be seen in it. (Good God,this bunch of losers would make a purple painted pig look kissable.)

So the hero of the story grabbed his broom, opened a couple buckets of tar, and painted his truck.

Funny thing, it did look a little better. It was at least all one color.
 
If it is just spray paint then it's not a big deal to remove it.

I've used a spray orange paint stripper a couple of times, let it sit a while then with a brush and some steel wool it comes off reasonably easy. Rinse it off with water.

No damage to the underlying bluing in my cases. It's not an enjoyable process but it's not brain surgery either.
 
I don't believe I'll find any finish underneath. Maybe in certain areas of the gun (certainly the inside of the muzzle I hope will be one). In certain areas it will come off very thick and I can see bare metal. I understand some use paints for various reasons but this is just a terrible job in my opinion.

I think I will try stripping it with solvent and a hard plastic carding brush. I understand the suggestions to have it re painted with a high temp epoxy paint, but I have access to hot caustic bluing and rust bluing equipment as part of my tuition and I think I can bring it back to a real classic finish that way. I hardly ever hunt or do any work on agricultural property where I would need a beater truck gun (and I would probably pick my VZ58 if I did) so I think I'm going to invest the time to make it look nice
 
All this talk about painting rifles leads me to ask what DIY paint do you like to use the most. I've got an old Winchester 190 that has no blueing left on it whatsoever, and the receiver on these old guns is aluminum and originally painted. This gun is not really worth anything, but a great project and it'll probably be the .22 my son learns to shoot with.

I want a semi gloss on the metal because I have already refinished the stocks and sealed them in a high gloss finish. I build furniture on the side so woodwork is a passion for me and my wife.

Just want to know who has used what and what has held up the best.

Mike
 
You keep thinking in terms of buying stuff to keep. Think in terms of buying stuff to re-sell.
Removing paint isn't a big deal. Especially since it's flaking off. Means it wasn't applied correctly. I'd take off the stock and drop the rest into a vat of mineral spirits for a day or two. Then use a brass wire wheel in a bench grinder.
Be sure and give the innards a close inspection for errant paint too.
"...a parts washer..." Usually used with degreasing solvents. Worked servicing the machines briefly long ago. Doesn't mean paint solvent can't be used in 'em though, but it has to be your's.
What makes you think it needs re-crowning? Only do that if it's necessary.
"...action is pretty slick..." Marlin's are like that. Way smoother than a Win 94.
 
Buying stuff to resell, especially after performing work on it, is too much of a grey area for me to be comfortable with it. It comes awfully close to gunsmithing/dealing in the business of firearms without a license
 
I would rust blue it, eliminating the need for polishing. Just smooth it up with 320 grit and you are ready to start the bluing process.
 
Well, we agreed on a sale this evening at work. $160 with the rifle, scope, and whatever ammunition is left (estimated to be 80-100 rounds). Considering the cost of the ammo alone, I think I did alright.
 
Yep. That's a win.
Let us know how things proceed with the project.

Buying stuff to resell, especially after performing work on it, is too much of a grey area for me to be comfortable with it. It comes awfully close to gunsmithing/dealing in the business of firearms without a license
I build for myself, but keep a mindful eye on the expenses in case I end up deciding to sell the project once it is finished (aside from being on a limited budget). I only build for myself, never for anyone else. But my mind has changed, more than once, between the time I started a project and the time that I "finished" it.
But if I end up selling it... so be it. It was never my intention from the outset, and it's not like it's a common occurrence.

I did end up selling one project earlier this year, after a year of ownership taught me that I wanted something very similar but just a little bit different (lighter, 1.75" shorter barrel, and trivially larger caliber).
 
I will post pictures (probably in a new thread) updating on the project.

I do keep an eye on projects that I can re-sell later (especially since I will likely need some capital for whatever ventures I take on after school). That's different than buying something now with the intent to work on it and flip it. Buying a piece for educational and portfolio uses now and enjoying it now while maybe selling it to pursue a different venture later is different in intent than trying to use it now to raise some cash. That's just my opinion on it though. For now my focus is on growing and displaying some restoration skills.
 
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