Marlin 336 Accuracy

C

Clevinger

New member
I recently picked up a Marlin 336 that was made in the early 1970s and lightly used. I wanted it to use as a brush gun and have other scoped rifles.

I was kind of wary of testing out its accuracy, given that it has open sights which aren't adjustable.

It is awesome. At about 50 yards I was getting awesome groups, and it was really fun to shoot.

What a great little rifle. :cool:
 
Pls define "awsome groups" as that is highly subjective.
I never saw a Marlin that didn't have adjustable sights.
I've owned several 336 marlins in 30-30 and one would group factory 170 grain ammo just under an inc at 100 yards.
It's pretty easy to get 2" groups from the Marlin at 100 yards with peep sights.
 
I shot a 336 in 444 marlin last month and it seemed the only accuracy problem it had was me. Sill two inch groups with questionable reloaded ammo.
 
Jm engraved Marlins are a dandy rifle to own. Sights can be adjusted simply with a brass punch. It called (drifting.) But it appears your rifle was already sighted-in for its best accuracy by the previous owner. Congrads on a great purchase Sir.
 
I had a scoped 444 that with a 265gr Hornady handload would put 3 shots under 3/4" at 100 yards.
 
I had a scoped 444 that with a 265gr Hornady handload would put 3 shots under 3/4" at 100 yards.
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I use the same bullet in my 1894S (.44 mag) and it clover leafs with iron sights at 50 yards...
 
My 336 in 35 rem is surprisingly accurate. No problem shooting 1.25-1.5 at 100 yards
 

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Year ago I got a 1.5" group out of my Marlin 336 in 30-30 using Federal ammo. Within its range, the 30-30 is plenty accurate. And if you don't know how to shoot scopes make little difference.
 
This will be my next rifle. Does anyone now the difference between a standard 336 and a 336W? Is it just cheaper wood for the stock?
 
This will be my next rifle. Does anyone now the difference between a standard 336 and a 336W? Is it just cheaper wood for the stock?
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The "W" is the Walmart model (literally).
It has cheaper wood, cheaper wood and metal finish, no Marlin bullseye in the stock, uses cheaper sights, and doesn't have the same quality standards as the regular production rifles/carbines.
It's the "bargain basement" model. ...And, as noted, the W does quite literally stand for 'Walmart'. The 336W was created to meet the price point demands of a Walmart contract, decades ago, and has been with us ever since; but, now, sometimes finds its way into the hands of other retailers, as well.


They're not bad rifles. I'm actually building a custom .444 on a 336W. They just aren't as good as the rest of the family. ;)
 
The best accuracy improving modification for the 336 is to replace the trigger. The 8 lb factory trigger that feels like two pieces of sand paper rubbing together does nothing to enhance accuracy.:rolleyes:
 
For those claiming MOA or sub MOA, just how many rounds did you shoot?



This was my best 10 shot group at 100 yards. Two MOA.



This was my second best 10 shot group at 100 yards, something between 2 MOA and 3 MOA



I had lots of groups around 4 MOA



One gunwriter was claiming MOA and sub MOA in his Marlin lever action article. He shot three shot groups and claimed that they were representative because sportsmen never shot more than three shots hunting. All he proved was the Texas Sharpshooter fallacy: “artificial order over natural random chance.”

Show me some ten shot MOA or sub MOA groups with these Marlin rifles.
 
Slamfire, the answer to how many rounds I shot is a complicated one. I do not shoot my 336 for group as I would one of my competition rifles. I shoot a target a couple of times to verify all Ok for hunting. I keep notes on where my rifles impact. Over a 6 year period, the sub MOA group is 34 shots. I seriously doubt the rifle would fire 5 shots in a 5 minute period of time that were sub-moa.
 
reynolds357, I have a Model 94 Winchester, I can go to the range and draw three circles on the target and hit all three. I know where the first shot is going, the same for the other two. My intention was to send it to Alabama with the grandsons and my old pick-up, with the rifle rack. Problem, I do not believe they heard a word I said after they heard the engine run., next trip.

F. Guffey
 
FrankenMauser said:
The "W" is the Walmart model (literally).
It has cheaper wood, cheaper wood and metal finish, no Marlin bullseye in the stock, uses cheaper sights, and doesn't have the same quality standards as the regular production rifles/carbines.
It's the "bargain basement" model. ...And, as noted, the W does quite literally stand for 'Walmart'. The 336W was created to meet the price point demands of a Walmart contract, decades ago, and has been with us ever since; but, now, sometimes finds its way into the hands of other retailers, as well.
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I sort of figured that's what the W was for, as I knew that this model was first sold at Walmart.

My Savage Axis was bought at Walmart and it has a different model# than the ones on the site, yet supposedly, when I called and asked, they said there were no differences. I question that, because if it were true, why the need for a different model number that's not even listed on the site? The gun was manufactured last year. Odd.
 
The best accuracy improving modification for the 336 is to replace the trigger. The 8 lb factory trigger that feels like two pieces of sand paper rubbing together does nothing to enhance accuracy.
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Just keep in mind that replacing the two-piece trigger with a one-piece negates one of the safety/reliability features of the rifle -- sear reset independent of trigger.

You do so at your own risk.

You're better off stoning the hammer and sear, than spending money on a one-piece trigger, only to find out that the hammer was 90% of the problem.
AND, you won't get a lighter pull weight unless you replace the trigger/trigger block spring with a lighter spring.

Lightening that spring, of course, compromises yet another safety feature -- ensuring the trigger can't be pulled with the locking bolt out of battery.

And, should you decide to follow the latest trends and also put a one-piece firing pin in the rifle, you eliminate another safety feature (some people argue that it's two): Another method of ensuring the rifle won't fire with the locking bolt out of battery. (And a 'drop safety' for people that think the spring-loaded rear firing pin works as such.)


Combining those 'by-passed' safety features, without the knowledge to do so properly, is not a recommended practice.

And ... well, if a one-piece firing pin, one-piece trigger, and smoother operation were what you were after... Why didn't you just buy a Winchester, to begin with? :rolleyes:
 
I have three of the Winchesters. I wanted a Marlin. I will be careful to not keep the one piece trigger depressed with my finger as I cycle the action.:rolleyes: The only way I believe I could make the 1 piece trigger dangerous is to cycle the action with my right hand and use my left hand to pull the trigger. I still believe the only safety feature that matters is "never point your muzzle at anything you are not willing to destroy." Even if you do get a "slam fire" in the 336, the bolt has to be locked to allow the hammer to strike the firing pin. The hammer following the bolt down will not fire the rifle.
 
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