Marlin 1895G 45-70

O

Old 454

New member
Was at the gun store with a friend and he picked up a new Marlin 1895G 45-70 and whe also bought an limb saver recoil pad for it.

Now I am considering and thinking about one.

Can you all tell me about

Reliability

accuracy

recoil

Any think else you can think of whould be a great help
 
Depends on your load....

Most common commercial loads (Rem, Winchester, Federal, etc.) are not that bad especially since the gun weighs about 10 pounds. Even when you step up to a slighly hotter round like the Hornady Leverevolution it is not painful, but noticable.

J
 
With good ammo, it is a very accurate rifle at least out to 200 yards. I find Leverevolution 325 gr. ammo to work very well out of them. You should get about 1900 fps from the ammo.

I am not as good as my buddy who put a 4x or 6x scope on his, but he managed to shoot a group at 200 yards that was less than 2" across using the Leverevolution ammo. At 100 yards, I can sometimes make them cloverleaf if all the planets are properly aligned and my biorhythms are in sync and I just have a lot of good luck. Otherwise, 1-2" at 100 is probably MY norm from the bench and using a red dot optic (no magnification).

The limb saver may or may not be necessary. Recoil is less than a 12 ga. shotgun. If you are standing while firing, then recoil shouldn't be a problem in regards to pain. Your body can move and absorb the recoil just fine. Off of a bench tends to be a different story and if you plan on sighting your gun in off the bench, it can get a bit painful after a few rounds.

I have 2 1895s. One has the limb saver pad and the other just has the rubber on the stock that it came with.
 
I had one a while back. the build quality was excellent and it was a gorgeous gun. The only knock i had on it was the the trigger pull was heavy and slightly gritty. I think it would make a hell of a deer gun for shots under 150 yards. I was in a hunting camp with a guy last season and i knew when he shot that thing 3/4 mile away, very distinctive report from those guns.
 
Thank you all for the info....looks like this will make an exellent hog gun.....will be going on my first hog hunt this summer.

I think this is a straight cased cartridge so will be easy to reload......ammo is a bit pricy for 20 rounds
 
yes unfortunitly I have read a few storys about ejection problems......but it seems to be able to be remedied by polishing the internals.....


How does one go about doing that?

Can you just use flitz to do it or would I need a buffing wheel and some lite lapping compound?
 
Old,
You should not try to do the "polishing" yourself, you obviously (no insult intended) have no idea of how to go about it. :)

Relative to firearms polishing, there are two types: external to look pretty, and internal to decrease friction and smooth up the interface between parts that slide across each other.

Flitz & a buffing wheel....:eek:
That's for the outside.
Lapping compound has some use in firearms, but I would not consider it on a Marlin action.

Polishing of internal parts is typically done with fine abrasive stones, and done slowly so as not to remove too much material, alter critical dimensions, or round off square corners & turn straight lines into waves.
Very fine abrasive cloth has its uses, occasionally a fine grit paper. But- you need to know where & when they're indicated.

Do not take anything out of that gun & let it near a buffing wheel!

If you're not particularly mechanically inclined, which includes being able to look at the relationship between the various parts and do some troubleshooting analysis, and don't know much about how the Marlin operates, YOU SHOULD NOT TRY TO FIDDLE WITH IT!

This is one of those cases where if you have to ask, you probably should have a pro look at any problems that arise.
There's nothing wrong or embarrassing about not understanding the Marlin guts, the embarrassment would attach later on when you come back to start a "OK, Took The Buffing Wheel To Everything Inside The Gun, Now Nothing Runs Right" post. :)

Denis
 
No insult taken my friend....bettor to ask questions then really screew something up.

My personal belief is there are no stupid questions only stupid answers!

You gave good info....I am mech. inclined, but I have never taken a rifle apart.

I have taken down diffrent revolvers and just cleaned the hell out of them removing, grit,dirt and old gumed up oil and reassembled them, but never polished the internals.

And the more I read about the Remmington/Marlin 1895 carbines, seems there is alot of problems with misfiting parts and burrs left on the metal pieces.

Has any one bought a Marline 1895G after Remmington took over and gotten a good one?.....don't seem like there to many with all the complaints.
 
Well it appears that he got a good one.

we put 25 rounds of Hornady through it, no jams no crushed cartridges and no feed issues. 25 in and 25 out!

I will now just do a good cleaning and lube on and it will be good to go!

Thank you to every one for infor.
 
I had one of the regular 1895s for decades. It was one of the first gen guns with the crossbolt safety (which I never used) but I didn't hold that against it.

The gun was fine, smooth working, fair trigger, & accurate. Recoil was entirely dependent on what you shot out of it. Regular 405gr factory was a mild shove. Hot 385gr copper plated hardcast RN moving at about 1900fps was a vicious smack.

Had a 2.5x post scope on it and one young fellow tried it out with hot loads and earned himself a "Weatherby eyebrow". ME, I never had a problem, but it was too much, too soon for that young man.:D

I traded it off a couple years back, surplus to my needs (kept the scope;)). I'd say if you go for one of the older ones, you'll have a pretty good rifle, if not as short and handy (and currently popularly trendy) as the Guide gun.

I have not been hearing much good about the Marlins made in the last couple years. Apparently QC problems are letting too much improper work leave the shop floor. Actually a bit understandable in these times, when (after worker safety) quality control is the first thing that gets cut when money is tight.

I note that I said I understood, not that I approved.

If I were in the market for a guide gun, and wanted the best I could get, I would scour the shops and the usual suspects for an older 1895, one with a good price due to finish wear, but with solid internals. Then I would have it worked to guide gun specs (or as close as I wanted for the money) and a refinish. I think it could be done for near the price (or maybe just a bit more) of a new guide gun of questionable factory quality. But that's just me.:D
 
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