Marlin 1895 Scout Questions

R

Ranger1

Inactive
Hello to all,
I just purchased a new 1895ss 45/70 with the intention of building a scout. I have been looking at the various options/mods available from both Wild West & Brockman.

So far, I am considering the following from Wild West...
1. Big loop lever
2. Ghost ring rear??, fiber optic front.
3. Action tuning.

And from Brockman..
1. Extended magazine. He states that he can cut/crown the barrel to 20", install his extended magazine tube and increase capacity to 6 rounds.

My questions are these.
1. What do I truly gain with this rifle/caliber combo by going to the Scout Scope set-up as opposed to using high visibility peep sights?

2.Who builds the better Scout Scope mounting system, Brockman (steel)or WW (aluminum)? I would use the Leupold scope.

3.For those of you who have seen both, do I gain much by using a WW ghost ring sight as opposed to using a Lyman or Williams receiver mounted peep with the aperature removed?

4.Does anyone have any suggestions for a source of matte black or gray epoxy paint. I was thinking of recontouring the stock & forearm.

5.Any comments about the companies themselves or the quality of their work?

In closing, I have no concerns about spending the $ if there is a definite need. I hope someone has seen some of these mods and can advise me.
Thanks,
Harry
 
About the only thing I can comment on here is the big loop lever. Don't do it. I may look good but it almost doubles the space the rifle takes up. More importantly, it will beat your knuckles up when trying for fast follow up shots. I had one one a Winchester Trapper I bought. It didn't take long for me to change it to a standard lever.
 
I think Jim West offers the large loop for us folks here in Alaska who might be running around with a big set of mits on (the kind with the little slits to get your trigger finger out).
I don't think they serve any other practical purpose.
As for the ghost rings vs scout scope vs Lyman peep sights, it all depends on what you intend to use the rifle for.
IMHO, with that caliber, with that rifle, the Ghost rings will do everything you need them to do. The Marlins are not tack drivers that will compete with long range BP cartridge guns so forget the Lyman aperture sights.

If you really prefer scopes then get the Leupold scout scope and a Burris mount (I have that setup on a Ruger #1). The only drawback with the scope is that it is a bit more delicate and since you're probably not intending any long range shooting....

------------------
Keith
The Bears and Bear Maulings Page: members.xoom.com/keithrogan
 
My own bias, but I dislike aluminum mounts. I've had a Williams sight drift on me when I was bear hunting. Thankfully I never got close enough to take a shot. From what I've read by the Chandler Brothers (Death From Afar series & Whitefeather), aluminum walks.
 
Gary,

Wild Wests mounts won't drift. Its a massive thing. Its also expensive though, and I doubt it does anything that the Burris or any other less expensive steel mount won't do.
Come to think of it though, WW's scout mounts are designed specifically for Marlin 1895's. It may be cheaper to buy his than to pay the smithing fee to have another mount fitted to the rifle...

------------------
Keith
The Bears and Bear Maulings Page: members.xoom.com/keithrogan
 
Keith,

"Wild Wests mounts won't drift. Its a massive thing. Its also expensive though, and I doubt it does anything that the Burris or any other less expensive steel mount won't do."

The mounts Jim put on my co-pilot are QD's and they are fantastic! The scope comes off quickly and the blade of the iron site snaps up ready for action. In reverse the scope locks back in place with the flip of the mount levers and still retains it's zero.

John - NRA - Lifer

<img src=http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Flats/6328/bear.gif>
 
Alfadog,

"John, where did you get that great animated bear graphic?"

It is a Paintshop 5.0 animation, not sure just where I copied it from as I visit a lot of free download sites. Feel free to copy and use it as it is shareware. (If you are not using Win95 or Win98 just email me and I can send you a copy as a file attachment)

John - NRA - Lifer

<img src=http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Flats/6328/skull2.gif>
 
Hello to all,
I thought I would update the group on my finalized project, now completed.

1. Initially, I felt that the addition of a compensator was unnecessary. However,I found a local man who had a Mag-Na-Brake on a .458 and I was very suprised as to its efficency. I sent the rifle to Mag-Na-Port, had the barrel cut to 18.5" and had the compensator installed so the barrel is 20" OAL. I was very impressed with MNP's quality. They were also priced much more reasonably than Wild West.

2. I installed the Williams "Fire" fiber optic front sight. I also ventilated the front sight hood so as to allow more light to get to the fiber.

3. Installed the Wild West rear sight. Very heavy made and very fast.

4. Installed the Wild West scout scope mount. I used the Leupold Torx screws on the base. Currently, I have the Aimpoint 3000 mounted in standard Weaver rings, low height. This is alot faster than the iron sights! I also have a Leupold 2.5 Scout Scope on order and am trying to decide between Warne or Leupold QD rings. At this point in time, I am also thinking of simply staying with the Weavers, they are the lowest on the market, strong and easily detatchable. I have also had good luck with returnability to zero. Any advice from any users?

5. I stoned the entire action, just enough to remove any burrs and rough surfaces. It made a big difference.

6. Does anyone have any advice on Laser Cast bullets? Thinking of using either 350 or 405GR.
Good shooting,
Harry
Benefactor member, NRA
 
Ranger,

I just acquired a Marlin Guide Gun and am in the same position you were when you started this thread - wondering what mods to have done.

As for the laser cast bullets... Its my understanding that with the "Micro-Groove" rifling, cast bullets are not recommended. Marlin recently switched to Ballard type, cut rifling which will handle cast and jacketed bullets equally well. My rifle appears to have the Micro-Groove type so I plan on using jacketed bullets.

I'm going to order the Wild West Ghost Ring and Fiber Optic sights right off. This winter when I'm not carrying the rifle I'll send it off to be Black T'd and any other mods I decide on.
I'll not get the scope because this rifle is not for hunting, its a pure bear defense rifle (I live in Kodiak, Alaska and like to fish a lot). The Ghost Rings will serve me best.



------------------
Keith
The Bears and Bear Maulings Page: members.xoom.com/keithrogan
 
I've had great luck with the Oregon Trail bullets and recommend that you try them out. If you're nervous about getting stuck with a full 500, e-mail them and ask about getting a lot of 100.
 
Keith. I have one of the first "reborn" New Model Marlin 95's. It is definitly Micro-groove. It shoots cast bullets with no problems, as long as you follow a few rules. The bullet should be relatively hard. It should be sized at least .002 over bore diameter.
I shoot Lymans 457122 bullet, a 330 grain hollowpoint. It casts to .460, and I size it to .459. It does about 2 inches at 100 yards from my rifle, using a peep sight. That's about as well as I can do with any peep sighted rifle. I also have Lymans 457191, a 300 grain bullet designed originally for the 45-60. It only casts out to .457 in. which is too small and leads like hell. It might not be bad if I could get it to cast larger, but it won't even do it with linotype, which usually casts larger than wheel weights. I also have a 400 gr. mold that I haven't tried yet.
Also, use a good bullet lube. The NRA Alox-beeswax mix will work, but it is a bit messy. Lymans Orange Magic is better, but is a hard lube, and you must use a heater on your luber-sizer.
My load? All I will say is it does about 1850 fps from a 22 inch barrel. It is a charge of IMR 4759 with a cream of wheat filler. I got it from the book, 40 YEARS WITH THE 45-70, by Paul Matthews. A great read, by the way. Another of his books, 60 YEARS OF RIFLES is also interesting reading. In some cases, he puts Elmer Keith to shame when it comes to hunting game with big guns.
In 40 YEARS, he has copies of correspondence he got from Elmer Keith, Jack O'Conner and other late greats of the shooting world. They are eye openers.
Paul B.
 
Does anyone make a protected peep sight for the Marlin. Ashley ghost rings sit too high on the gun and look silly to me. The Williams doesn't do it for me either. I want some thing on the order of an M1 sight that is nestled between two posts/flanges at the rear. Or maybe a vernier sight. I want to keep the gun in 19th cent. character if I can.
 
Paul,

I'm sure I'll have a definite opinion on the cast bullets - micro-groove rifling question before long. I have over a hundred handloads already done for another rifle and I'll not be breaking them down. I'll shoot them through the Marlin.
Surely, even if theres a loss in accuracy its probably not very important at the ranges these rifles are designed for.

I've got around 500 soft cast 405 grain bullets which I'll probably load down as practice rounds. I've got several hundred more extremely hard cast 350 grain rounds with the copper base (what the hell do they call that - my mind has gone to mush since I turned forty) that mike out at .458.
Anyway if as you say, the hard cast bullets will work well, then I've got plenty.



------------------
Keith
The Bears and Bear Maulings Page: members.xoom.com/keithrogan
 
Keith. In my experience, using cast lead in the Micro-groove barrels, the important thing seems to be sizing, sizing, sizing. Those you have of .458 diameter mat work, but I'd bet they lead a bit. The peoblem with micro-groove rifling is the rifling is much shallower than conventional rifling. Using 30 caliber as an example, bore diameter is .300. Groove diameter is .308. In the Micro-groove barrel, bore diameter is about .302 and groove diameter .308. There is less rifling to grip the bullet. So I use a bullet at least .002 over groove diameter. The big problem is leading caused by the bullet stripping. Once that happens, accuracy goes to hell. For Marlins, I find that the diameter over the grease groove should be .459, and the nose diameter should be whatever makes it snug in the rifling.
Take your cast bullets and try to fit the nose of the bullet into the muzzle. If it is snug, you have a good chanced of decent accuracy, as long as the diameter at the grease grooves is appropriate. If it is loose, IE you get some minor or worse wobble, accuracy may not be too good. In fact I would bet that it would be lousy, but sometimes, rarely, they shoot well.
Good luck. let me know how they work out.
Paul B.
 
Fal - Gas Checks, yes. Thank you.

Paul,

I just stuck a round of the hard gas-checked bullets in the muzzle and its so snug it will not go in past the ring below the nose.

It appears to be of the LBT truncated cone type round and the box says it has a brinnell hardness of "22". The seller told me these were about as hard as cast bullets get so I think they'll serve.



------------------
Keith
The Bears and Bear Maulings Page: members.xoom.com/keithrogan
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top