Jeyray,
Make up a dummy round (no primer or powder) and use a Magic Marker to darken the tapered side of the extractor groove on its case. Cycle it through the gun manually, and then look at the Magic marker to see if you can find a mark from the nose of the extractor scuffing the ink off of it. If so, that isn't normal. It means that when you fire the gun and the case is forced back against the breech face in the slide, it is pushing hard against the extractor before it gets there. When you fire, the case is pushed really hard against the extractor, creating the indentation. This will not only wear or break the extractor prematurely, it will prevent the case head from being squarely in contact with the breech face when you fire a round, which can cause an accuracy problem.
To correct that, the extractor tip may need to be reduced with diamond hones, the extractor may need to be replaced, or it may be the slide recess for it is not correctly located. I would recommend factory service to correct it. You should need only to send them the slide and barrel assembly and not the frame, which requires expensive shipping.
But if you get no mark on the round, remove the slide with the dummy in the chamber and look at it from the bottom. If you see the dummy making square contact with the breech face, then the mark is likely due to the case striking the corner of a cut in the slide during ejection. In that case, you need to locate where the strike is occurring. Brass cases that are not plated are better for that as the color of brass on the slide is easier to spot. You can reduce and smooth the contact point and refinish it or you can look at changing recoil springs or modifying the ejector to change the direction of ejection a little. Lots of possibilities there and many gunsmiths are able to do them.