I've done hot bluing, regular slow rust bluing with good results in the past. I have a rifle that I am going to strip down and blue. I have been looking at the Mark Lee Express blue at Brownellsa and I am debating trying it. Does anyone have a gun that has this applied to and how does it compare to trus slow rust bluing as far as durability? I'm not looking for cheap cold blue stuff, but if i'm reading correctly is it basically a true rust blue? I don't mind putting time in doing it slow but if Mark Lee stuff is decent I wouldn't mind shaving off some days. Read on some old posts here it seems to work well, but I want something that will last and protect, not a cheapo cover up job that comes off .
Mark Lee Blue
- Thread starter Nodak1858
- Start date
I have used the Mark Lee browning solution ,one Brownells tank with a weed burner under it for hot water. I'm very happy with the resuts I'd do it again.
I had refitted a Browning 92 .44 mag lever gun to a tapered octagon bbl rifle.
I already had the brown solution and I had no concern about matching scope rings,etc. My results weren't brown,but espresso black. Its a deep,strong finish.
You first degrease,then your parts heat up in hot water.You swab an even coat of solution on,and dunk it.Underwater,a coat of rust will quickly grow.The rust turns to blue,or brown/black when you card it off with the stainless brush.Repeat till you get what you want.
Do plug your bore both ends,tght,tapered hardwood pegs will do.You do not want this process inside your barrel
I suggest doing a beater single shot shotgun or an old 22 or something first gun for experience.
Because I had both,I got some beeswax to somewhat dissolve in turpentine.It worked OK for a sealer.A microcrystalline wax in any solvent that will cut it might be better.
IMO,this process probably is not as good for making money as the hot salts methods.But the hobbyist can get a darn nice blue,more "old school"
Its nothing like cold blue.
I had refitted a Browning 92 .44 mag lever gun to a tapered octagon bbl rifle.
I already had the brown solution and I had no concern about matching scope rings,etc. My results weren't brown,but espresso black. Its a deep,strong finish.
You first degrease,then your parts heat up in hot water.You swab an even coat of solution on,and dunk it.Underwater,a coat of rust will quickly grow.The rust turns to blue,or brown/black when you card it off with the stainless brush.Repeat till you get what you want.
Do plug your bore both ends,tght,tapered hardwood pegs will do.You do not want this process inside your barrel
I suggest doing a beater single shot shotgun or an old 22 or something first gun for experience.
Because I had both,I got some beeswax to somewhat dissolve in turpentine.It worked OK for a sealer.A microcrystalline wax in any solvent that will cut it might be better.
IMO,this process probably is not as good for making money as the hot salts methods.But the hobbyist can get a darn nice blue,more "old school"
Its nothing like cold blue.
arquebus357
New member
Here's an example of a Mark Lee Express Bluing job. I've done 3 handguns with this product.
