Making my own holster... and have questions

M

Moosie

Inactive
Hi!

I'm making my own holster and have some questions... ok a lot of questions! anyone nice enough to help me out? I'd appreciate it. I've got the basic process down, but need some more details.

* Preferred thread type, size, and color
* What are you using to install snaps, rivets?
* Do you dye before or after boning / before or after assembly?
* Where can I find the typical cant for various holsters?
* Is it ok to proceed with 5 spi on just about anything? Anytime I should adjust that?
* Type of dye that's preferred

THANKS!! I greatly appreciate your time!

Moosie
 
* I use "natural" colored or dark brown waxed nylon thread. Nylon thread is stronger than cotton thread and does not fray as easily. Waxed thread is easier to clean after stitching than unwaxed.
* I double-needle saddle stitch rather than lock stitch. This produces flatter seams but is harder to do.
* Rivets are set with a rivet setter, a hammer, and an anvil.
* Snaps are set with a snap setter, a hammer, and an anvil.
* Dye before assembly and boning. I wax the outside of the holster with Johnson's paste wax after boning and drying.
* About 5 degrees cant for strong side belt holsters, 20 degree for cross-draw, vertical for shoulder holsters is easiest, but you can make whatever you want as long as it works. In the past 30 years I have made vertical strong-side holsters, horizontal shoulder holsters, and 45 degree cross-draws, FWIW.
* I typically sew at 8 stitches per inch, 5 seems like really big stitches.

And yes, Tandy does have leatherworking training and supplies, even patterns for when you are first starting out.
 
I'd say 8 stitches per inch is rather overzealous. The norm is 6. Common overtsitch wheels typically come with wheels in 5, 6, and 7.

Regarding dye, spirit dye is your best bet for lasting permanent results. I'd stay as far away from water-based as you can. Also, I finish mine in an acrylic sealer.
 
moosie, 2/22/09

I was in a similar position as you about a year ago. I got tired of the six-month wait times for a quality holster and the difficulty of finding a maker for some of the out-of-production pistols available on the used market. I have done about five holsters now, all IWB, after a bit of research and practice. The problem is that it is so much fun that I make holsters for pistols that already have acceptable holsters. Maybe I need to buy new pistols.

There are some excellent internet sites showing details of leatherworking and holster making. They are listed below.

www.leatherworker.net Go to the forum section.
www.jdlawhon.com/beltslide
www.unblinkingeye.com/guns/holsters... best wishes- oldandslow
 
Thanks!!

Thanks for all of the replies.

If this goes anywhere, I'll be sure to post some pics for critique!

Thanks,

Rebecca
 
* Preferred thread type, size, and color

Waxed Nylon, in white and black

* What are you using to install snaps, rivets?

A setter kit

* Do you dye before or after boning / before or after assembly?

Dye and finish are my last steps

* Where can I find the typical cant for various holsters?

That's up to you, maker. Make them to what fits & works.

* Is it ok to proceed with 5 spi on just about anything? Anytime I should adjust that?

Leather weight will dictate stitches per inch. For gun leather I use 5spi as that's the stitch wheel size that came with my kit years ago

* Type of dye that's preferred

Depends on what you're making and what's available. Also of great influence is the brand of leather you use and your build process. I've had good results with EcoFlo (waterbased) but I'm anticipating a switch to Angelus. I will say that your technique and product for the topcoat is what really matters. I prefer full strength Resolene. Any dye can and will bleed if it is not finished properly.
 
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