Making an over travel stop.

[Chainsaw.]

Is this as simple as drill and tap, find the correct length screw, adjust and lock?

Does it need to be a particular distance up or down the trigger?

Im torn between higher on the trigger where there is more material or lower down the trigger where there is leverage...

Thoughts?

 

[dahermit]

For gosh sake, whatever you do, do not tell us the make and model gun you are making the stop for.

 

[Chainsaw.]

Dont really see how thats important but ok.

Tanfoglio witness.

 

[Unclenick]

The model can make quite a bit of difference. For example, on a Ruger Redhawk, the bottom of the spring tunnel behind the trigger near the top is a perfect place to drill out and thread for an overtravel stop, and that's exactly what I did with mine. I doubt that convenient cut exists in your Witness.

In a 1911 it makes no difference where the screw goes on the trigger because the trigger moves straight back and the 1911 trigger stirrups are so thick you can skeletonize them to access the screw from the side, as a Goldcup overtravel screw does.

Your Witness has a thin trigger stirrup, so you can't put much screw length through it without it rubbing your trigger finger. Just looking at a photo on the importer's web site, the place I would be looking is the angled up flat spot at the top of the back of the trigger. It'll be easier to drill into that flat, and you won't have to worry about the screw ever reaching through to your finger. It will also let you use a flat head screw if the only available stopping surface is polymer rather than steel (I've never looked closely at a Witness and can't tell from the photo).

 

[Pahoo]

Good question

Dont really see how thats important but ok

Well it does make a difference and I do appreciate your post as I'm sure most of us can address this to their own forearm. I do a drill and tap as well as surface mounts. Have not done all that many but where there is a need, there is a way. …..

Be Safe !!!

 

[Chainsaw.]

Okay, okay. I can totally see how it makes a difference now, forgive me for posting before coffee!

Ill have to see if I can put a screw in the frame, the only only down side is drilling a tanfoglio frame, they are hard as can be!

 

[T. O'Heir]

"...as simple as drill and tap..." Depends on the pistol. So it being a Tanfoglio matters. Mostly about where and if you can D&T for a wee screw.
Which Tanfoglio Witness matters too. For the same reason.

 

[Jim Watson]

There is the proverbial "White trigger stop" just a glob of silicone sealant behind the trigger, trimmed to control aftertravel. Or a pencil eraser cemented in behind the trigger likewise. Don't laugh, the system was quite common on PPC revolvers at one time.

 

[Chainsaw.]

No kidding? Most difficult part of that would be finding a glue that would stick to the frame. Hmm.

 

[4V50 Gary]

I like the non-mechanical solution suggested by Jim. Next order can just peel it off and the gun isn't changed.

 

[Chainsaw.]

Welp. That aint happening. I've heard rumors that the steel frames of these guns are ultra hard. Well the triggers are too. I've done a bit of light machining in my time are this stuff is as hard as AR wear plate. Guess I'll order the $53 trigger....or an eraser...

 

[zukiphile]

There is the proverbial "White trigger stop" just a glob of silicone sealant behind the trigger, trimmed to control aftertravel. Or a pencil eraser cemented in behind the trigger likewise. Don't laugh, the system was quite common on PPC revolvers at one time.

I used to glue on pieces of rubber wash, but I've since found little glue on silicon hemispheres at Home Depo. I don't trust their adhesive, and use superglue to put them on. A fingernail file will wear them down to the correct depth.

 

[Scorch]

I've heard rumors that the steel frames of these guns are ultra hard.

EAA/Tanfoglio frames are not that hard. If they were, the Tanfoglio couldn't drill them easily either.

 

[JohnKSa]

For something a little more permanent than sealant or a rubber eraser, you should be able to use some JBWeld. It can be filed/sanded to fit and shape when it has cured and should stay in place just fine. I would rough up the spot where you want it to stick with some coarse sandpaper. It's also a grayish color so it shouldn't stand out too much compared to the color of the gun. If you want, once you've filed/sanded it to fit, you should be able to color it with an appropriate colored marker to make it less obtrusive.

Another option which is even more permanent, is to use a welder to put a small dot of metal on the back of the trigger. Then file it to the minimum height required for the trigger to release the sear.

Obviously these approaches could be used on either the triggerguard/frame or the trigger. I would recommend modifying the trigger since in the worst case you can buy a new trigger.

EAA/Tanfoglio frames are not that hard. If they were, the Tanfoglio couldn't drill them easily either.

Tanfoglio uses a surface hardening treatment on at least some of their frames--maybe all of them. I assume that they do the drilling/shaping before applying the treatment.