Making a hybrid holster for my S&W 640

RadekSkylark

New member
Hallo guys.

Some of you may know that I live in Latvia and recently purchased my first handgun - Smith & Wesson 640-1. For specifics on why this handgun particularly - check my thread at the general handgun section.

Revolvers are not popular in Latvia, so there are no holster option available (IWB at least). Because of the price of shipping for Crossbreed holsters as well as a VAT of 21% for imported goods I decided not to order a Crossbreed Qwikclip holster (which I though would be what I need, as I want to try to carry appendix) which would've costed me around 155$ (I paid 400$ for my handgun being on a tight buy stretchy budget, so that seems a lot to me). Instead I checked "father" youtube and "mother" google to see if there are any tutorials on holster making from kydex - I found some with lots of details. After understanding what I need to make a DIY Crossbreed Qwikclip holster I decided to go for it.

Kydex is not available locally so I though to order 0,08" kydex from "knifekits", which would've cost me around 17$/sqft if I would've ordered 2 sqft (I would need to order 2 sqft just to disperse the price of shipping). From roughly measuring my revolver I think I would actually would need only 1/6 of a sqft for my holster, if of course I get it right the first time.

Fortunately for me it seems that I've found a shop in Europe which sells 0,08" kydex for 17,5$/sqft and I can actually order only 1 sqft, which I really like (also shipping should be faster). This shop also has some rivets and screws for sale - will have to check that out later.

I will also check around for options on hooks for the holster, but for now I think I will order from Crossbreed as they seem to ship those hooks (up to 3 it seems) free of charge even to Latvia.

The last bit is the leather. Found one shop in my town (which I think is the only specialized store here in Latvia) and went to check it out. Came home with a peace of cowhide which is around 0,2" thick (as I understand 12,5 to 14 oz) and 20" x 8" wide/long. This was the smallest peace they would sell me and cost me 13$. As I understand it is basically raw - I will need to process it with some oils or stuff (what is used for leather so it wont soak in moisture etc). This peace of cowhide is quite stiff. I wasn't sure on how stiff I would need it but this seemed appropriate - other options where quite softer and I though they wouldn't be able to handle the weight of the gun etc, I could be wrong though. Here is a picture of my gun and the cowhide I bought:

My S&W 640-1:
20160702_002559.jpg


Cowhide from "front":
20160702_002632.jpg


Cowhide from "back":
20160702_002654.jpg


Sorry for quality of pictures.

I think that the peace of cowhide I bought will definitely be enough for at least two holsters (if I ever make another one for myself or for anyone else).

As for tools: I have an old kitchen oven laying around somewhere so I'll use that to heat up kydex. I will try to get an infrared thermometer from someone and if I won't be able to - I'll buy one for myself - saw the cheapest one sold in "knifekits" for around 20$ here locally.

I'll have to order one (as I understand for Crossbreed type of kydex holster molding I only need one, as the other molding surface has to be solid) 8" x 12" foam sheet that is sold at "knifekits" - although I'll order from that European shop mentioned previously - they also have them - costs the same.

As for the press - I'll just make one with plywood and those giant calipers (or how they're called) - seems to work fine for many people.

I plan on molding around my actual revolver. Maybe I'll wrap it in the plastic wrap, although I'm not sure will it really sustain contact with a hot kydex.

As for grinding an stuff - I plan to use hand held type of belt sander and grinding machine - anyhow I have so tools available so I think I'll get by.

So from what it looks now I think my price list goes as this:
*Cowhide = 13$;
*Kydex = 17,5$;
*Infrared thermometer = 20$;
*Foam = 17$;
*Hooks from Crossbreed = 10-15$;
*Rivets & screws = 5-10$.
**Possibly some kind of materials for processing the leather so it won't absorb moisture, although I'll think about this if those materials will cost a lot.

So from (*) it seems that I'll end up with a price tag of ~100$, which includes a laser thermometer. It seems that I'll be able to get a laser thermometer from a friend so the actual calculated price of materials needed for single holster (taking into account the fact that I have cowhide for at least two if not three little holsters, that I'll have kydex for at least 3 holsters and I should be able to use that foam for at least three holsters as well) is around 40$, not counting the materials for processing the leather.

In this thread I plan to keep you posted on how I'm doing and possibly you'll be able to help me with some advice.

Best of luck to everyone!
 
It sounds like for about 60% of the cost of buying one, you can make your own, with enough material left over to make a couple of others. You may be able to sell them to recoup your costs. Even if it takes a couple of tries you still we be money ahead and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
Takes roughly 2 square feet of 8 ounce leather to make a holster. 8 oz. leather is roughly 1/8"(3.2mm) thick and kind of stiff. 12 ounce is about 3/16"(4.8mm) thick. Really a bit too thick for a Smith 640. It'll do though.
12 ounce leather makes exceptionally good gun belts if you have the length you need. The belt is as important as the holster for holding a firearm in place.
Go here for tutorial. https://www.tandyleather.com/en/leather-buying-guide.html
"...leather so it won't absorb moisture..." Regular(for here. No idea about Latvia. Can't image there not being shoe polish there, but I have no idea what's in it, there.) shoe polish will do that. Has waxes in it that will water proof a holster and make is pretty. Applied just like you do for a shoe. Usually needs several coats though.
Regular wood stain can be used to dye leather. Black usually comes out the most evenly coloured. Dye everything inside and out before you sew it together.
Wet forming is how you molding around your revolver. Tap water is fine. Wet the leather so it's wet, but not dripping. Stick the gun in and let it dry over night. No heat or hair dryers or anything else.
Pictures are fine, but make 'em smaller if you can.
 
Wet forming is how you molding around your revolver.
I thought he was interested in making a "hybrid" holster...a holster with a flat leather back and a formed kydex part to hold the gun. If that be what he wants, wet forming the leather to the gun is unnecessary...or did I miss something?
 
Dahermit, I think you're correct; the leather is just backing and the kydex will be formed to fit according to RadekSkylark's post.
 
Yes guys, I'll be making hybrid (Crossbreed type) holster which has flat leather backing and a molded kydex part which holds the gun.

P.S. T. O'Heir - do I understand you correctly - usual wood stain for dying leather black and regular shoe wax for making it waterproof - is that correct? Also, will that shoe wax be a permanent solution or will I need to re-apply it monthly/weekly?

Thanks everyone!
 
Also, will that shoe wax be a permanent solution or will I need to re-apply it monthly/weekly?
Just like shoes, it needs be re-applied from time to time to keep it shiny. Most of my homemade holsters are black. Once the stain is applied and a coat of black is applied and buffed, from that point on I use neutral shoe polish to prevent coming off and staining clothing. The neutral shoe polish does not impart any more color, but keeps the leather looking new.
Here is a full-flap holster I made for my .32 S&W Long Hand Ejector.
flap_zpscqyf6dct.jpg
 
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So I could use regular wood stain to dye the leather black and then use clear shoe wax to make it moisture resistant?

P.S. Are there any other ways to make it permanently moisture resistant?

Thanks
 
So I could use regular wood stain to dye the leather black and then use clear shoe wax to make it moisture resistant?

P.S. Are there any other ways to make it permanently moisture resistant?
Just as with leather shoes, wax based shoe polish will make them moisture resistant, but will not make leather waterproof...leather will eventually get wet when enough moisture is in contact for long enough. If you perspire, you will need to routinely tend the leather. You might want to consider sewing a fleece liner on the body side of the leather.
 
Hey guys.

I found that the European shop that has those 0,08" kydex sheets for sale also has leather dyes, oils, waxes etc. Wanted to post links to these pages and maybe someone could tell me which dye should I use for dyeing my leather and which of the wax and oil products (if any of them) could be used to make my leather permanently moisture proof.

Here are the links:

http://www.jatagan.eu/en/leather-dye/

http://www.jatagan.eu/en/make-a-knife/oils-waxes-varnishes/

Thanks guys!
 
RadekSkylark: I have had a S&W 640-1 for several years , that I use for my CCG that I carry every day. I put Crimson Trace Laser Grips on this gun, and carry it in a OSW Fobus Holster made of Kydex. And also in the front pocket of cargo type shorts or pants or in a field Jacket pocket made by DeSantis Holster Company. Both work extremely well for me and I have used both of them for several years. IMHO the S&W 640-1 is a great pistol, and I believe You made a great choice in choosing one.
ken
 
Hallo guys.

I found silicone rubber for sale at one shop and was wondering - could this be used for a vacuum former? I was thinking maybe instead of buying a foam for a kydex press I would be better of with buying that silicone and making a simple vacuum cleaner operated vacuum former (I can get my hand on a large industrial bosch vacuum cleaner - the ones that are used in construction - I think it should have enough grunt)?

Here are the specifications I got on that silicone rubber:

- Elastomer: kSil GP60
- Standard manufacturing length: 1 200 mm
- Hardness: 60 °Sh
- Density: 1,19 g/cm3
- Tensile strength: 7,9 MPa
- Elongation at rupture: 340 %
- Working temperature: -60 °C/+230 °C (shortly 250 °C)

And here is a picture:

20160711_094831.jpg


What do you guys think?

Thanks
 
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