Major Repair on an OLD Revolver Question.

Hand_Rifle_Guy

New member
I have aquired a Smith & Wesson M&P revolver Model of 1902, 2nd change, 32-20 cal, with a four digit serial number. Got it for a whopping $140. Research indicates this gun was in fact built in 1902. It has a five-inch barrel with a straight taper, like a Colt, and a round-butt grip with the checkering worn off from much handling. It has the remains of deep, mirror-bright bluing, but the right side has much finish lost because at some point the gun got moist while living in a holster. This gun has TINY LITTLE sights, with a notch so small you can barely see it, much less through it. The gun has a substantial heft to it, much more than comparable Colts of the time. I can't Imagine this gun chambered in .38 S&W, the only other caliber offered other than the .38 Special. It'd be like an "N" frame in .38 special: big gun, winky caliber.

The problem is bullets keyhole out of it! :eek:

On closer examination, a ring bulge at about the end of the ejector rod has revealed itself. Someone, during this revolver's LONG history, managed to stick a bullet in the bore and put another one into it.

I can't figure out when this happened, as this revolver displays a LOT of use. In addition to the worn checkering, the forcing cone shows severe erosion, there are anular blast rings etched into the face of the cylinder, and there is a neat blast cut in the topstrap, a la .357 maximum revolvers from a few years back. (An interesting point is the cut neatly misses the dish in the topstrap put there just for that purpose. .32-20 is longer than the .38 Special that premiered in this gun. The first mag-length cylinder, but no mag for 33 more years!) It certainly looks like this gun has digested a great deal of ammunition, something I find hard to reconcile with keyholing bullets. Note; it doesn't keyhole ALL of them, but who's counting once you find out?

The point of all this is that I really like this gun just the way it looks now. I've never seen another Smith with this barrel profile before, so I'm leery of having the gun re-barreled. In addition, the finish wouldn't match, and I love this gun's "lived in" character. I also don't want to change the caliber, as .32-20 in a handgun makes for a great shooter for a guy with a username like mine. It's not quite a .30 carbine, but it's more impressive than a .38 Spl.

Mechanically, the internal mechanism is in great shape, although it's a little weird-looking compared to the guts of more modern Smiths, and the ratchet and bolt stop notches are all in good condition. The trigger pull is pretty heavy, but only in D.A.. I don't plan on using this as a defense gun, just as another antique plinker, a class of gun my collection overflows with.

So I guess what I want to know is if it's possible to have the barrel removed, relined, and re-installed, and the face of the cylinder fixed, without it costing an arm, a leg, and my first-born child. That old bluing is amazing! I really want to preserve what's left of it. ( 75% or so) Eddie Janis of Peacemaker Specialties likes to work on old guns without re-finishing them, but I suspect old Smiths are not his usual fair. Does anyone know of any gunsmiths who might be willing to work on my 100-year-old revolver? I don't want to restore it, just make it work right again. A D.A. 32-20 is a pretty rare bird, and this one's a lot of fun to shoot, when it bothers to send the bullets to the right place.

I was going to buy this Colt Police Positive Special in .32-20, along with a six-inch barreled top-break Iver-Johnson in .38 S&W, but one-gun-a-month plus the stupid drop test idiocy put the kibosh on THAT plan...stupid state.:(

It really is a Smith & Wesson, as one hundred years ago no-one made stupid agreements with the Kriminal..er...Klinton administration to earn the designation of Sellout & Worthless.:p
 
"It really is a Smith & Wesson" Most likely but isn't that in the time frame where the Spanish were makin dupes of S&W, correct right down to the logo?

I am thinkin the ring might not be the keyhole culprit. Lot of very late Smiths show a ring even with the front of the frame from overtorqueing....mostly in stainless models. doesn't seem to hurt their accuracy. I realize your ring is further down the barrel but maby try some other things before pullin the barrel. Maby clean up the cone........and check the muzzle crown very closely.

Nuther thought......if only keyholin a few random rounds, might be lockin up a little weired at times.

And play with different loads, it might be picky.

I have your guns little sister.....32 hand ejector Model 1903, 2nd change. Hoot to shoot.

Sam...I don't have to collect antique plinkers, I are one.
 
Correct down to every little mark. Classic S&W round-butt grips. Serial number is correct for type and features. Workmanship is absolutely top-notch.

Muzzle crown shows no damage, no dents anywhere for that matter. 'Well used but not abused' is how I see it. Aside from a good-sized ring-bulge, that is.

The mechanism seems to be perfect, and the internal parts show very little/no wear. I've only shot it once, but it seemed to keyhole one or two bullets out of every cylinder-full.

the cone is BAD. Eroded on the face where it meets the cylinder. Eroded inside the cone surface itself. The rifling, however, is not so bad once you get past the cone. After firing, the rough cone surface showed no excessive lead buildup. Could a rough forcing cone tear up a bullet enough that the rifling wouldn't stabilize it?

BTW, shot it with Winchester factory loads. Is there precedent for .32-20 handguns having problems with some loads? Never heard of such, but I've only been doing this (guns, that is) for eight years.

I think I'll take it to the range and see what it does, whilst paying more attention to which chamber keyholes, if there's any consistency. Taking my brother shooting friday, (our once-a-year ritual, he doesn't own a gun. Yet.;) ) I'll try it then.

P.S. I don't handload (yet), so I don't get to try different loads. Rats!:(
 
Top notch workmanship inside is a dead giveaway....gotta be the real thing.

Chamber mouth smaller than bore will cause leading AND sucky accuracy. I would think that raspy cone area would blow the accuracy consistantly but not lead to occaisional keyholing.

Be interesting to see if it is doin it consistantly out of certain chambers.

Please keep us posted.

Sam
 
I also have trouble believing the barrel ring would cause keyholing. A possible fix is to have a first-class smith set your barrel back and recut the forcing cone. That might just fix everything.

If not, I would then try handloading longer bullets. Of course your twist will limit just how high you can go, but the idea is to span both ends of that ring so that its like it wasn't there.
 
AC.......interestipating thought. Good cone and gap could well help bad chamber or two shoot a lot better. I like your thinkin.

H.R.C......if that all sounds like too much bother, email me and I will send you address to ship it to. My little one and your big one would be happy together in my place.

Sam:D
 
I'm a fool for old Smith & Wesson and Colt revolvers, I have a pile of them in my collection. For example, I have a particularily nice Colt Army Special in 32-20 WCF that's still as tight as the day that it left Hartford.


7th
 
Well, the barrel set-back idea is a good one. That's gotta happen anyway, cuz the cone is SHOT. I'll check the chamber throats, and let you know.

C.R. Sam: Me? Sell a gun? That's funny. A downright gut-busting belly laugh! I can't even convince myself to carry one in this area just because of the off-chance I might have to surrender the darn thing to some un-feeling jerk of an LEO. (They're not all jerks, I know, so please don't yell at me. I LIKE cops, mostly. They're on MY side.) This applies even to guns I bought specifically for this purpose that didn't cost much, like my A.D.C .45 auto derringer, my East German Makarov, my 'sleeper' Taurus 82, and my Heritage Stealth. I am a hardcore collector. The idea of parting company with a gun once I've got my grubby little paws on it doesn't even make it into my universe.

That even includes outright junk like my Clerke First .32, which I got for free! Of course that gun I inherited from my grandfather, along with a full box of ammo from, like, 30 years ago. Remington "Kleanbore" in the old style green box. I think it had never been fired. I put 5 rounds through it and it threw them all over the landscape. A true Saturday Night Special. With sentimental value. And nice-feeling grips. Rats! Why couldn't my grandpa have gotten something good?

Interesting side note: The Clerke cylinder is long enough for .32 ACP's, but I'm not going to shoot those in it. Or anything else, for that matter.

Back on topic, anybody got a theory as to why it might be keyholing at all? Don't know much about that style of problem beyond innapropriate twist rate.

I could also use a good gunsmith reference, as I usually do my own work, but this will require tools and expertise I don't have. Doesn't need to be in Kaliforny, I'm not averse to shipping it someplace.

Thanks everyone, this is helping, and I'll keeep you posted as to what happens friday.
 
Ok, we went to the range. Took a couple of my brother's friends along, too. Made a shooter out of bro's friend's GF with a .44 mag! She liked the boomers. She's a good shot, too. Thanked me profusely for taking her shooting. I told her if she wants to make me happy, buy a gun! She said she's going to, score one for our side!

Anywho, the old beast digested a whole box of ammo. Shoots adequate groups at fifty feet. (6 inches or so, those miniature sights don't help anything.)

Keyholed all of ONE bullet.

But I think I now know why. I discovered that sometimes the cylinder wasn't locking all the way. Sometimes. When it felt like it. Just BARELY. It would take the tiniest little touch on the cylinder, and it would reward me with a little "click" as the bolt dropped in. No consistency as to which chamber it would do this on, that I could discover.

No more keyholes once I started making sure the cylinder rotated completely. Aha! It was so close, it fooled me last time. It wasn't shaving chunks off the bullets, either.

Found out why it's binding up, too. Sometime in this gun's long life, the ejector rod spring got mangled. Some of it's coils are artful little ovals instead of clean circles. Makes the cylinder bind slightly in the direction that matters, not at all in the one that doesn't. That spring is really thin wire, too. How it got twisted is a mystery to me, as the spring is completely buried in the mechanism.

So it looks like my mystery is solved, for the most part. I like that. The flash-gap on this gun is pretty big. When it's fired, big sheets of white fire bloom in a halo around it. Loud crack! Attracted lots of attention at the indoor range with the noise and the flash-bulb effects.No spitting, though. I like it!:)

Now all I need is a new ejector spring. That's the immediate, cheap fix. This spring looks pretty odd, as I've never seen one made from such thin wire. where do you suppose I could find one? Brownell's? Numrich? I'm open to suggestions, as this gun's a fairly obscure permutation, and it's design features were changing rapidly at the time.

I'd still like to fix the cone, so I'm still in the market for a 'smith who is willing to take on a one hundred year old gun.

Thanks for the input, everyone!
 
Since ejector rod spring is not critical as to strength........The biggie will be findin one with physical dimensions that work without binding. ID and OD and length. If you don't have sumpin in your 20 year box, my next try would be Numrich. Old gun store with lots of unidentified springy things in a box. Or even a good hobby store.

While you are springin in it, might take a hard look at the cylinder stop spring.

Also sounds like your hand is a tiny bit short (or star worn) or it would have locked up anyway. Hand stretchin is a magic art. I must have a spare on hand before I try it. If have spare, original behaves. If no spare, original breaks. Sammy's law of parts breakage. If have spare, never need it.

Sam
 
Glad it worked out with no real problem.

BTW, you would not be able to set that barrel back anyway, since that gun has a front extractor rod lock.

Actually, bulged barrels usually don't much affect shooting, either for stabilizing the bullet or for practical accuracy. The bullet may expand a bit into the bulge, but it gets squeezed back down and goes on its way.

Jim
 
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