Maintanance poll
- Thread starter Andrew
- Start date
Andrew - I use Hoppe's NO. 9 as my primary solvent, but have to admit that MPro7 is probably the better solvent. I just like the smell of the Hoppe's. 
I only use the Hoppe's if I need to get rid of heavy jacket or powder fouling.
By FAR the most used product in my kit is CLP.
On my AR's I use CLP, (light coating on the gas rings, as well as the bolt surface with just a dab behind the locking lugs, and then use an artists brush to brush a light coat on the bolt carrier, 2 drops in the carrier key, etc.)
I use Tetra grease on those surfaces subjected to more friction, and a drop of Tetra oil for pins, etc.
Cliff
--
"Giving money and power to government is like
giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys."
P.J. O'Rourke
I only use the Hoppe's if I need to get rid of heavy jacket or powder fouling.
By FAR the most used product in my kit is CLP.
On my AR's I use CLP, (light coating on the gas rings, as well as the bolt surface with just a dab behind the locking lugs, and then use an artists brush to brush a light coat on the bolt carrier, 2 drops in the carrier key, etc.)
I use Tetra grease on those surfaces subjected to more friction, and a drop of Tetra oil for pins, etc.
Cliff
--
"Giving money and power to government is like
giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys."
P.J. O'Rourke
Art Eatman
Staff in Memoriam
First off, I live in a dry climate, and our hunting seasons are in the drier time of the year. Rust is inherently less of a problem.
So, I just wipe down with WD40 on a patch, on an occasional basis, but every time I handle a gun. I use WD40 on a patch through the barrel, except that once or twice a year I'll use the copper-removing bore cleaner ala directions on the bottle.
Revolvers? Same old WD 40 unless I'm shooting lead. After pulling a Lewis Lead Remover through the barrel, it's back to WD 40.
I field strip my autos after shooting and use the Lead Remover if necessary, a toothbrush and WD 40.
I periodically will disassemble the bolt of any rifle I'm using, and do a thorough cleaning.
I've yet to have a scum buildup from WD 40, or any other reported problem.
I also love the smell of Hoppe's #9, and use it sometimes. All of them seem to work pretty well.
The main thing is that stuff is clean, and you leave a light oil film, at most, on the rubbing parts. Too much oil or grease and dust can accumulate. If you get in the habit of picking up long guns by the wood of the stock, it's amazing how they never rust.
I guess I started using WD 40 whenever they first started making it...Never had a problem. Sure, if you spray it into things and never actually disassemble and clean, you can wind up with mud...Just like any other spray-product...
FWIW, Art
So, I just wipe down with WD40 on a patch, on an occasional basis, but every time I handle a gun. I use WD40 on a patch through the barrel, except that once or twice a year I'll use the copper-removing bore cleaner ala directions on the bottle.
Revolvers? Same old WD 40 unless I'm shooting lead. After pulling a Lewis Lead Remover through the barrel, it's back to WD 40.
I field strip my autos after shooting and use the Lead Remover if necessary, a toothbrush and WD 40.
I periodically will disassemble the bolt of any rifle I'm using, and do a thorough cleaning.
I've yet to have a scum buildup from WD 40, or any other reported problem.
I also love the smell of Hoppe's #9, and use it sometimes. All of them seem to work pretty well.
The main thing is that stuff is clean, and you leave a light oil film, at most, on the rubbing parts. Too much oil or grease and dust can accumulate. If you get in the habit of picking up long guns by the wood of the stock, it's amazing how they never rust.
I guess I started using WD 40 whenever they first started making it...Never had a problem. Sure, if you spray it into things and never actually disassemble and clean, you can wind up with mud...Just like any other spray-product...
FWIW, Art