M44 Bayonet Accuracy

T

TacticalSamurai

Inactive
I recently purchased an M44 (1953 Polish, not importation marks awesome shape BTW). 1st thing I did, remove bayonet, go to range, and its hitting WAY right.
"Oh well" I wanted to make a scout carbine anyway. Order S&K weaver scout mount, put optic on gun, back to range, still WAY right. Can't move the red dot anymore to the left to get it anywhere near center.
I come home look online a bit and see that by folding and unfolding the bayonet the harmonics of the barrel are changed.
Hmmmm. Now, does this mean that because I removed the bayonet I messed up my accuracy and that by replacing it, which I have already done, I can get my M44 to stop hitting WAY right, and back toward center?
Curious to see if anyone can help me, might be a week before I can get back to the range to find out for myself wanted to know if I was on the right track.
 
What you are describing is NOT a barrel harmonics problem. Do you have or can you borrow a laser boresighter? Check it out with that. It is possible that you either have a mistimed or bent barrel. If it is either of those, send it back and ask for a replacement or your money back.
 
completely normal. my m44 did the same thing. by removing the bayonet you did effect the accuracy, but the precision is still there (by this i mean that it will not hit the spot the sights are aligned on but it will hit the same point consistently) you will just need to find a way to zero the scope.
 
Is your scope new or used ? If used you may have to re-center it on both adjustments. Click the adjustment screws to the end - dont force it further. Then while counting clicks ,turn to the other end of adjustment. Turn in half your click count on both horz & vert and your reticle will be centered. Then shoot for zero again. That may do it. I have encountered your exact problem on scopes that I swapped off to another rifle. The hazzard is that you may go brain dead counting all the clicks accuratly without interuption. Luck to ya.
 
Thanks guys, I really hope its the bayonet, obviously cuz it'll be the easiest fix, but I know how my luck is.
Actually it wasn't a scope, but a Pro Point I put on.
And I removed the bayonet all together. As in I removed it from the gun.
 
You're confusing accuracy with point of impact. Your rifle may still be accurate, you're just not aligning your sights with the point of impact.

What range are you shooting at when zeroing your sights? Try 50 yards 1st just to see if you can get on paper. And bring a mallet and a punch to move your front sight. Once you're on paper, then move out to 100 yards (or beyond). With the bayonet removed, it should only move the point of impact a few inches at 50 yards from what the factory zero was set to with the bayonet on (and probably mounted). It could move the point of aim/impact quite a bit at 100, though. If you get on at 50, you should only need to fine tune at 100.

Are you shooting from a rest? If not, try that. Even if it's some cheapo bipod, just to steady your aim. http://www.amazon.com/UTG-TL-BP70-S...SJWA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1302232954&sr=8-6


I second the suggestion of using a laser bore sighter, if you have one. Even a cheap one can help, though don't expect them to work out to 100 yards. I use mine at 25 yards at home before I go to the range. That always has me within a couple inches from the get-go if I've been tinkering with my sights. Also, if you're like me, I'll bet you're adjusting your scope wrong. I do it every time. I think I'm adjusting to the left and it's moving more to the right. It seems the scope adjustment is the exact opposite of how I think it should be. I start thinking my scope is trash, and then I move it in the opposite direction and suddenly I'm back in black.
 
Problem is rifle. Once bayonet was re-attached, rifle still fires so far right scope cannot compensate for it.
Removed mount, replaced open sights, and now have a $70 s&k scope mount that I cannot use.
I'll just have to adjust that front sight and will not be able to have an optic.
Thank you Polish Armory.
 
The bayonet effects the accuracy by almost a foot at 100 yards in my experience. The front sight is on a dove tail. Just take a brass punch and a hammer and drift it in the opposite direction that you want the bullet impact to go. It doesn't take much of an adjustment. I sighted mine with the bayonet folded in.
 
My experienced milsurp friends claim that with a bright bore/nice rifling, they are supposed to be among the very best MN 44s.

Different MN 44s require a certain type of surplus ammo, unless you want to spend more money on new ammo.

Some 44s work better with the oldest Bulgarian (gray cans), others with Czech, Hungarian, Polish or maybe Russian x54R.
Lots of guys bought some small batches of different origins for their experiments.

If it's any consolation, the nicer condition Enfield #4 Longbranch rifle with 2-groove bores can make bad 'keyholes' at 100 yards, IF using boat tail (BT) bullets. BTs have too much taper (surface area) to allow bullets to spin up enough in many of these bores.
There is so much to know about old milsurps, but no AR-15 has even 10% of the character.
 
this is one of those questions ive seen a million times. And for every 100 people ive seen answer that the bayonet DOES affect accuracy, 100 people answer that it dosent......best bet is jus try it out on your own rifle and see what type of results you get.
 
My M44 has the same point of impact with bayo out or folded.:cool:

Are you using light ball? Try some heavy ball and see if the bullet point of impact is more consistent.
 
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