my new 29 has the heaviest hammer pull I've ever felt on a smith. to cock the hammer takes considerable effort, the gun is flawless other then that, I just bought it and all I know is it dosen't feel as light or as smooth as my other 29's. I assume I can order reduce power springs for it that would slove the problem? or these hard to install? and whats the lightiest weight I can safely go to? I know nothing about gun smithing a DA. so any help would be greatly appreciated, if it matters its a mod-3
M29 help
- Thread starter witmen
- Start date
It may need to be cleaned inside.
It may be worth checking the mainspring strai screrw on the front of the grip frame down low. You'll need to take the grips off. First check to see if it's tight and bottomed out. You can loosen this screw a little at a time to see if it helps, but I wouldn't go past 1 1/2 turns out at most, no matter how good it feels if you do more. Some suggest filing some metal off the tip of this screw. I've just backed it out a bit. I've never had one back out by itself when not bottomed out. Someone may have, but I haven't. You could use some blue locktite if worried about it. I feel that filing some of the screw off is a permanent solution that can be taken too far. Adjusting the screw works fine for me.
Sometimes when the screw is backed out it gets to a point that it actually makes the hammer harder to work. This is why I suggested seeing if it's tight first.
It may be worth checking the mainspring strai screrw on the front of the grip frame down low. You'll need to take the grips off. First check to see if it's tight and bottomed out. You can loosen this screw a little at a time to see if it helps, but I wouldn't go past 1 1/2 turns out at most, no matter how good it feels if you do more. Some suggest filing some metal off the tip of this screw. I've just backed it out a bit. I've never had one back out by itself when not bottomed out. Someone may have, but I haven't. You could use some blue locktite if worried about it. I feel that filing some of the screw off is a permanent solution that can be taken too far. Adjusting the screw works fine for me.
Sometimes when the screw is backed out it gets to a point that it actually makes the hammer harder to work. This is why I suggested seeing if it's tight first.
Sir William
New member
Clarification, is this a M29 or a new stainless 629?
old blue m29. sorry I did say new, but no it's just I newly bought it yesterday. sorry bout that.
I'm gonna do what you suggested today malamute, hopefully that is whats causeing it. if that dosen't solve the issue do they make lighter weight springs for it. my SA uberti cattlemen is full of reduce power springs makes a world of diffrence in the gun. but I've never had a smith be anything but perfect the way it sits so I don't know. thanks
I'm gonna do what you suggested today malamute, hopefully that is whats causeing it. if that dosen't solve the issue do they make lighter weight springs for it. my SA uberti cattlemen is full of reduce power springs makes a world of diffrence in the gun. but I've never had a smith be anything but perfect the way it sits so I don't know. thanks
A couple of things come to mind regarding your M29-3's heavy hammer pull.
Does the effort start off heavy and suddenly become lighter once past some arbitrary point in the hammer's motion? Or is it heavy through the entire hammer arc? Is the effort consistent between chambers of the cylinder?
Open the cylinder and hold the cylinder release latch rearwards and try cocking the hammer. If it remains heavy, it may be the mainspring tension as Malamute suggested. If lightening the tension doesn't appreciably change the cocking effort (with the cylinder open) then it's time for looksee under the sideplate.
If opening the cylinder & cocking the gun shows a marked improvement, have it checked out by a good gunsmith.
Does the effort start off heavy and suddenly become lighter once past some arbitrary point in the hammer's motion? Or is it heavy through the entire hammer arc? Is the effort consistent between chambers of the cylinder?
Open the cylinder and hold the cylinder release latch rearwards and try cocking the hammer. If it remains heavy, it may be the mainspring tension as Malamute suggested. If lightening the tension doesn't appreciably change the cocking effort (with the cylinder open) then it's time for looksee under the sideplate.
If opening the cylinder & cocking the gun shows a marked improvement, have it checked out by a good gunsmith.
That screw in not an adjusting screw !!!It should be tight.A proper trigger job first involves honing all the contact surfaces.Only then should springs be touched. The mainspring can be narrowed and the coil spring replaced with a lighter on but you have to know what you are doing otherwise don't touch it !
Something someone said made me think. I second the idea of checking it with the cylinder out. If it's good with the cylinder out of the frame (pull the cylinder latch back to get it to cycle with the cylinder out, as mentioned) then you may need to clean under the extractor star. Seems some people tend to neglect this particular item. I've seen some clean guns that were dirty under the star. This will have a very pronounced effect on hammer/trigger pul weight, as the cylinder is binding if theres crud under it. Some vigorous toothbrush action on the underside of the star, and in it's recess in the cylinder should do it. Should be a regular part of cleaning, and maybe the single most important thing to check for reliable operation of a DA revolver.
FWIW, I'd locate a qualified gunsmith. Tell him what you want done. I did that with my 686. Had him install the Wolffe spring kit, etc. Very smooth. I was however, having some FTF on DA. I think the hammer drop was alittle too light. He reinstall the factory main spring and that seemed to solve the problem. Like some, I've got the S&W gunsmith/repair books, but I'm not confident enough to mess with something that is suppose to go 'bang' each time you pull the trigger. Good luck.
FrankDrebin
Moderator
I'd have it cleaned....I've used a very nice ultrasonic solvent cleaner, and separate lubricant that works great without taking the gun apart. Do NOT monkey around with the mainspring screw. Like the other guy said, it's not for adjustments. A 15 year old tried to shoot me through a door once with a Model 27 with no grips....I wondered what that "click, click, click" was while trying to kick the door in. Found his gun with little dimples on the primers. Lucky for me, someone "adjusted" his mainspring.
Malamute has a good point. Checking under the star extractor for build up of debris.
Another check is to ensure the extractor rod is not loose. With the cylinder open, put thumb on cylinder to prevent rotation and try turning the end of the extractor rod. It should NOT unscrew (left-handed threads on most models now). If this is loose I'd be surprised your gun hasn't entirely locked up with the cylinder closed.
Also look for drag/scrape marks on the hammer or trigger where they move alongside the frame. There should be none.
Another check is to ensure the extractor rod is not loose. With the cylinder open, put thumb on cylinder to prevent rotation and try turning the end of the extractor rod. It should NOT unscrew (left-handed threads on most models now). If this is loose I'd be surprised your gun hasn't entirely locked up with the cylinder closed.
Also look for drag/scrape marks on the hammer or trigger where they move alongside the frame. There should be none.
Sir William
New member
Those are all possible. I had one recently that was rough and gritty. The sideplate was removed. The action was full of gunky lube and rust pitted action. I guess the former owner fell in some water. A good cleaning and tuned action parts solved the issue. I also had one with a broken hammer staked pin. It was rough to fire. When the sidepate came off, the hammer and pin fell out. I have seen that in a Colt also. There could be wear visible on the side of the hammer from frame rubbing. I have seen the hammer pin that catches the mainspring broken too. I would check with S&W and see if they would rebuild the revolver for you. A final check is to remove the grips and check them for wear and rubbing. Try dry firing without the grips and see if there is any difference in feel.