M29, hard to eject/scratches from one chamber

Q

qqq1

New member
I picked up a used 29-6 and have had it out to shoot twice. I've found that most times (not always), in one particular chamber, after firing a round it will be difficult to extract and will scratch on the way out. I can take that piece of brass and it will fit fine in the other chambers. Sooo... what do I do?
 
Sounds like a trip to the gunsmith or Smith & Wesson customer service might be in your revolver's future. Without looking at the pistol, my guess is that the offending chamber needs to be pollished.

Every time I see someone drop a cartridge (especially wax lubed .22 RF) into the dirt and then pick it up and put it into their weapon, I think of scratched chambers and bores.
 
Those are the same people who pick up cases from the dirt and reload without cleaning the cases !! The dirt especially the sand will scratch even Carbide dies !!
 
Amen to that Meta. I once lent my 308 match rifle sizing die (RCBS) to a friend and guess what? Yep, scratched all to hell when I got it back. Like knives and bullet molds, I no longer lend my dies to even good friends.

Qqq1, I would think that you could probably fix the former owner's fau paux with an Dremel Tool and some light polishing compound. Go slow though as you don't want to end up with an out-or-round chamber.
 
Before doing anything, take a good look at the case and at the chamber. Sometimes there is nothing but a tiny burr at the rear of the chamber that a swipe with fine emery cloth or a small file will clean up. Just don't get carried away.

Jim
 
Wrap some steel wool around a bore brush screw it to a cleaning rod them attatch it to a drill, stick it in that chamber and polish it yourself.

Or take it to a gunsmith and pay.
 
Thanks. I'll have to get a magnifying glass to get a good look and I'll try giving it a light polish myself.
 
It is possible that the chamber is bulged and that would make a rough charge hole an easy fix.

Bruce
 
So how do you fix a bulged charge hole without replacing the cylinder? I have one in the cylinder of my Model 36.

Tom
 
Tom,

I don't think that is fixable. Maybe a liner, but I'm pretty sure it would be easier to have S&W fit a new cylinder to your 36.

Did this hapen during your ownership of the pistol? If so, can you give us the details on the ammo used when it happened and where the bulge developed in the chamber?
 
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A----I would NOT run a drill or dremel on any firearm, especially one that may have to go back to Smith.
B----If you can, take a bore brush, some Mother's Mag polish and polish the charge hole of the cylinder by hand and see what that does before getting out the power tools.

I have done that to all my charge holes and have never had a sticky extraction. If you use a drill, dremel with with any kind of abasive, you run the risk of voiding any warranty or worse, making the charge hole too big and getting buldged cases. Just my thoughts.
 
Yep, it happened when I owned the handgun. +p Winchester 158 gr. lead semiwadcutters. (I didn't look at the box carefully before loading the gun.) :-( Bulge appears to be right in the middle of the chamber. . Empty case will partially extract and then won't budge. Have to drive out with a wood dowel. The revolver is 1982 vintage. S&W does not have replacement cylinders. Don't want to go to the expense of having a used blued cylinder installed because the whole gun would probably have to be reblued to get a match. Have thought about having a polished stainless Model 60 installed. I know there are lots of # 36's on the market, but I sort of have an attachment to this one. Bought it new for $185.

Any pics of a #36 with #60 cylinder?

Back to the OP...If the used brass will fit back into the other chambers, I'll bet that you do not have a bulged chamber. My used brass from the damaged chamber will not fit not into the other chambers. New brass slip in and out of all chambers.

Tom
 
Tom,

Thanks for the run down on your Model 36 from 1982. I have a Model 60 from 1980. I'd hate to see a bulge in its chamber, so your expericence will keep me shooting standard 38s in it.

Batman,

I hope you weren't thinking that I was suggesting a grinding wheel in that dremel tool! A soft polishing wheel with a light buffing compound will not damage the weapon and may smooth things up enough to mitigate the scratch.
 
The only fix I know of for a bulged cylinder is fitting a new cylinder. It's an expensive oops to rectify.

Bruce
 
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