M1 Garand Detail strip Q (easy)

C

Coronach

New member
1. Yes, I have read the wonderful detail strip/reassembly page on the web at classic places (or whatever its called) and the stuff from the CMP. It answered every Q I have so far except:

2. Once you have the forward hand guard off, how do you seperate the wood from the metal 'insert' that runs the length of the handguard? I can see two 'ears' of metal at each end, and I'm guessing you kinda push those in or pry them off, and after that the insert will be loose...but which end do you do it from and what technique do you use?

Thanks!

Mike
 
Mike,

Separating the front handguard "ferrule" and "liner" from the wood can be tricky, as one can crack the handguard if care is not used. The method I like best (and has the least chance of damaging the wood) is the following:

Carefully pry the REAR tabs (the ones that engage the wood) inward from the wood. Usually, this results in the liner "sidewalls" bending inward for some distance down the length of the liner. Don't worry, we fix that later.

Then, once the tabs are clear of the wood, push the liner (and the ferrule at the front) forward. The liner acts as a pusher to drive the ferrule off.

Once the liner/ferrule assembly is free of the wood, the walls of the liner can be straightened, and the tabs at the back can be equally straightened, in preparation for reinstallation.

Sometimes the tabs at the back crack when bending straight. That's not the end of the world, as the ferrule and liner can be epoxied to the wood to hold them in place if necessary. (Match rifles do this anyhow, to limit handguard motion and improve accuracy.)

Just don't put a lot of squeezing pressure on the wood handguard during the installtion process, 'cuz that's how they get cracked.

Good luck.
 
By my clock, that took exactly 15 minutes. Jeeze, this place is good. :D

What method do you recommend to press the tabs inward? Just looking at it, I was thinking a pair of needlenose plyers, one top on each tab. Yea, nay?

Thanks,
Mike
 
I use a small screwdriver on the end of the tab to start it, and then the needle nose to take over. Just don't use the wood as a fulcrum, as it can lead to trouble.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top