Lyman scale ?

rebs

New member
I bought a used Lyman beam scale. Where the pointer is there is the zero in the center and horizontal lines above and below the zero, what do they represent, are they 1/10 of a grain ?
 
Always seemed that way. Don't count on it working. I advise you to center your scale before use, and weigh your loads on that center. That's the way it's meant to be done. I remember in the past seeing scales with nothing but the center index mark.

Btw, it certainly wouldn't hurt to do some testing. As little as a grain can mean the difference between a safe load and a potential disaster. Taking sets of ten bullets in several weights, weighing them, a nd comparing the average weight to the specified weight is a good start for that, but you really should get a set of calibration weights, especially if you are someone who presses the limits of a load, or runs everything at max loads. A set of calibration weights cost only a few dollars, and you really ought to check every time you set a load. Amazon has a ten dollar set.

One problem, I don't know how easy it will be to find one cali b rated in grains, but it's simple to put together a card with converted numbers.
 
RCBS has a set of check weights; available on Amazon for about $30. I'm sure other brands offer the same thing
 
I don't press the limits of any load, I found I can get excellent accuracy loading under max. I was just curious about those marks.
 
AFAIK, all the beam balance scales sold for reloading except the Lee are made by Ohaus for branding by the sellers on an OEM basis. Should be as good as any other of that type.

The graduations on the pointer scale of any beam balance are meant to equal the least significant setting value on the counterpoise beam(s). For powder scales that it 0.1 grains. If 0.1 grain doesn't move the beam that far, then there may be damage to the knife edge or it may need cleaning. I believe these can be sent for repair, if necessary.
 
Thank you unclenick that is waht I was looking for.
so if I weigh a charge with the setting of 4.5 and when I put the charge on the scale and the pointer goes up 2 lines that would mean that charge is 2/10th over right ? 2 lines lower would be -2/10th so that charge is under by 2/10 right ?
 
I also have a Lyman beam scale. I check the weight calibration after centering using a 150 gr bullet that has been weighed on other scales to confirm that it truly is 150 gr.

I always shoot for on the 0 on my loads.

This method hasn't let me down, but only because I use a test weight of known amount.

Mike
 
so if I weigh a charge with the setting of 4.5 and when I put the charge on the scale and the pointer goes up 2 lines that would mean that charge is 2/10th over right ? 2 lines lower would be -2/10th so that charge is under by 2/10 right ?
Correct.

FWIW-1: While the scale is settling, tap the table it's sitting on w/ your finger (as in drumming your fingers).
It will then settle to true balance, and do so very quickly.

FWIW-2: ±0.1gr for all but the very, very (very) lightest charges will never affect the end results one whit.
(This speeds up life considerably) ;)
 
Well, it might be 0.1 whits. But not normally other variables are greater and cause more velocity variation. Not seating primers perfectly will do more. Not deburring your flash holes will do more with some slower powders, in particular.
 
If a person allowed himself to get wrapped up in all of the dozens of minor to major things, from the big ones like heavy military brass or all copper bullets down to primer choice, some people, such as me, would be ready to give up.

That's why I tend to hang at the low end of the scales. I've heard of people loading to maximum in winter testing, and then having extreme heat send pressures up.
 
Yep those hash marks represent .1 (1/10) of a grain. I have 3 powder scales (I can't pass up a deal) and my favorite is a Lyman/Ohaus D5.

There are many "theories" involved in reloading but most are best handled with plain old logic. Luckily I started "pre-web" when life was much slower/safer and for reloading, not a lot of the "necessities" were well known. I met excellent handgun marksmen/reloaders that never trimmed a case nor tumbled any brass. Today that would be unthinkable. There are many "new" methods/processes available with a few key strokes and it can be confusing. But I believe in "Easy Does It" and "There's only one way to eat an elephant, that's one bite at a time"...:rolleyes:

Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
 
Of the several things that you should do when using any scale be it beam or electronic I found the one thing that made a difference was having them on a very solid base. I have a piece of 1/2" X 12" X 18" tempered glass that I have put whatever scale I'm using on.
 
Back
Top