Lyman De-Capping Pin

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bigclubs

Inactive
Hello fellow reloaders, I have a Lyman .308 Win 2-die set and while processing some mixed 308 win and 7.62 Nato brass, I broke my de-capping pin. I found several sites that have pins, but packaged in quantities of 10. At this point I only need 1 replacement pin. Does anybody have an extra pin they are willing to part with. Lyman pins have a flat on one end, so RCBS pins may or may not work, which most stores in my area carry.
 
By flat I assume you mean looking something like a flat knob. If so I have several of two varieties, one or both will probably work. I just sent a Personal Message to that effect. Can have them in the mail tomorrow if they sound like what you need.
 
Yes, that would describe the head on the Lyman pin. Similar to the head on a finishing nail. I looked through a few web searches and one guy actually used a finishing nail as a temporary fix, but finishing nails are hardened, so I was not really wanting to go that method. Thanks for your reply Condor Bravo.
 
Those pins only broke for one of the following reasons:
a) Loose decapping rod causing misalignment or misaligned rod;
b) Loose decapping pin assembly;
c) Berdan case.

Before reloading I always ensure that the decapping pin assembly is locked tight. Then I check visually that the decapping rod is in the middel of the die. After decapping the first case, I keep the case in the die and then tightens the decapping rod. By doing this you ensure that the rod is 100% center to the flash hole of the case.
 
I too, have used RCBS and Lyman interchangeably. Finish nail are NOT hardened and I have used one in a pinch. If they were it would be a bonus.
 
Lee has a hardy De-Capping die with a one piece rod/ pin assembly , universal die body 22cal - 45 cal. If memory serves. I Like the lee collet that holds the rod, if you come across a military crimp or Berdan primed case, it usually will push the rod up through the collet before bending. Thus indicating either a crimped primer pocket or a berdaned primer pocket. On the crimped pockets I just tap the protruding rod with a small ballpien hammer and ease the primer out, and swage it. You will feel the tension on the press arm and will learn when you have come across a crimped case.

I decap all my brass first, then wet tumble to clean.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk
 
I have used Lyman and RCBS pins interchangeably.
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This will NOT work 100% of the time. In fact, I'm not sure when it will work, as it has never been possible for me. ;)

Lyman dies from the 70s use a headed pin. RCBS dies use a straight pin. RCBS pin will NOT work in Lyman dies, nor vice versa, at least with decapper assys. from the 70s, and 80s. In newer dies it might work, I don't know, I don't have any.

Don't cheap out, buy the 10pack of pins, its only a couple bucks, and trust me, if you have broken one pin, you will break another, though it may be a decade or more later! :D

I use the Lee punch and base set(s) for decapping GI brass. Sure, its slow, but it only needs be done once, and the punch is also useful for opening bent case mouths back up. ALSO, you inserting the punch by hand, feeling for the flash hole means you won't try to decap a Berdan case.
 
Well I received 3 decapping pins from Condor Bravo and tried them out. The outcome was not great. The actual Lyman pin snapped while very slowly raising the 308 case into the die. The shell did not make it to the complete seating in the die when I could feel the pin break. The second pin (slightly tapered) was just a straight pin with no head and bent, I was thinking maybe a tiny bit loose or did not seat right in the expander. The last pin was maybe .010 larger in diameter than the original Lyman pin. Fit through the primer hole with no problem on another processed shell. The flat head was too large, so I used a drill and sharping stone to reduce the diameter to fit the expander and had to increase the hole slightly in the expander nut. LoL took about 20 minutes, this was a HARDENED pin.

Tried this pin on the shell and could not get the shell to fully seat in the die. At this point I am thinking these last 2 shells were Berdan primed and that was the whole problem. Took 1 of my empty shells and loaded a primer the tested my die with the new pin. Worked fine... If I have problems later, then its time to bite the bullet and order another expander nut and 10 pack of pins from Lyman. Since 90% of my 308 brass is Winchester brass, may be a while before I come across another Berdan shell. Thanks for the comments.
 
I am thinking these last 2 shells were Berdan primed and that was the whole problem
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Berdan cases will absolutely give you decapping pin problems.

However, I am concerned about what you wrote, you should not be "thinking" they were Berdan, you should KNOW!!!

All it takes is looking. Ok, in a good light, but just looking in the case will tell you. Boxer priming uses one centrally located flash hole. Very convenient for knocking out the spent primer.

Berdan uses 2 (sometimes 3) smaller holes, spaced around (non in) the center of the case head. CANNOT be decapped with Boxer tools (the common standard.)

the best thing you can do with Berdan cases (in common calibers) is toss them in the brass recycle bin, right when you find them.

If you aren't visually inspecting EVERY case before you put it in the press, you should be.
 
I have an over-abundance of the smaller Lyman pins that bottomed out and broke so will send another should you need it (with additional envelope padding). Hoping it will still fit snugly enough since you had to enlarge the expander button opening some for the large pin.
 
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Thanks Condor, I sent your a private message. Yes 44 Amp, I do know berdan are not reloadable and I always toss them after target shooting. I have been using up the several boxes of 7.62 nato rounds I purchased ages ago and if the boxes were labeled Berdan, I toss them. This 1 or 2 rounds I missed, I tried looking inside the shell case, guess I will have to pick up a better light or smaller light to see inside the shell better.

Everybody has to experience a broken pin at some time. Took me over 2000 various caliber rounds to finally break one, so I must be doing something wrong. LoL

Thanks for the comments.
 
"...Finish nail are NOT hardened..." Makes no difference anyway. Finishing nails make great decapping pins. However, a decapping pin is a decapping pin. Assuming you have other Lyman dies, you can take a pin out of one and put it in another.
In any case, suggest you buy the 10 pack. Decapping pins are supposed to break before you damage the rest of the die.
"...pick up a better light or smaller light to see inside the shell..." Bore light. Mind you, the nuclear spotlight in the sky works well too. snicker.
 
Right on bigclubs; two of the smaller Lyman pins are in the mail. Good to find some additional use for these. Not sure how I ended up with so many; Lyman must have just sent along a few extra on the possibility I might be trying to deprime too many berdan primed cases. And did that one time also.
 
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Berdan cases are a pain in the butt, but they aren't the only things to bend and or break pins. Grossly off center flash holes will do it, too, and they aren't totally unknown. Also, if the expander ball (or cap in pistol or straight case dies) gets loose, the pin can "wiggle" and if its out of alignment then bent or broken pin.

The ironic thing about primer pocket systems is that the Berdan system, used in Europe was invented by an American, and the Boxer system, used in the US was invented by a European (Englishman, if I remember right).

Berdan cases CAN be reloaded, but it takes special methods and tools, and Berdan primers haven't been easily available in the US for ages.

Unless you have one of the rare guns like some English double rifles, where cases are running several dollars apiece since they haven't been made in years, reloading Berdan brass simply isn't even remotely cost effective, if even possible.
 
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