Lubricating a Revolver and Lead Removal

M

Macoute

Inactive
I just got a S&w revolver and the owner's manual was somewhat vague on lubrication. Where do you place oil on a revolver to lubricate it? Also what have you found to be the best solvent/method to remove leading from the bore and forcing cone? Thanks.
 
Macoute, occasionally you can remove the side plate and put a drop of oil on the parts if it's needed but unless you're comfortable with disassembly/assembly of the pistol I wouldn't recommend it. The easiest thing to do is to keep the outside, the bore and chambers clean and lightly oiled. Then about every six months to a year, depending on how much you shoot, take it too your local smith for a detailed clean and oil. He'll completely disassemble the pistol and clean it. The best thing I've found for leaded bores and forcing cones is the Lewis Lead Remover. You might find one at Wal-Mart. If not, surely your local gun shop will have or be able to get one for you. George
 
Other than cleaning the bore and cylinder, I put a drop of lube on the two spring loaded detents that hold the cylinder in on the S&W. and wipe the gun down with a silicone cloth. My S&Ws look like new after years of use.

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Yankee Doodle
 
All you need do with a S&W revolver in the way of lubrication is:

1. Make sure gun is not loaded.
2. With cylinder closed, cock hammer.
3. Drop 4-5 drops of oil into the space ahead of the hammer.
4. Drop 3-4 drops of oil into the space ahead of the trigger (bottom of frame)
5. Uncock hammer and open cylinder, push back extractor, drop 2 drops of oil on extractor shaft, working back and forth.
6. Drop 2-3 drops of oil on ratchet.
7. Drop 1 drop of oil in end of ejector rod.

That's it - a couple of minutes.

As for leading, that is another problem. FWIW, I think the best lead remover for revolver barrels and cylinders is the old Lewis lead remover. There are all kinds of chemicals and even an (expensive) electronic gadget. Most of these are fine, although some of the chemical cleaners are pretty useless and ones with ammonia can really wreck nickel plate if it can get at the copper undercladding.

Again FWIW, I use G96 Gun Treatment, which cleans and leaves a protective film.

Jim
 
A thought on lead removal: Get a Chore Girl, or other brass pot scrubber. Cut into it with tinsnips/wire cutter so you can pull the individual strands out. Wrap some of these strands around a bore brush, preferably a worn one... And scrub hell outa the bore with your choice of solvent. Cheaper than the LLR, at least as effective, and adaptable to all calibers.
Don't overoil, and don't use teflon oils in the bore.

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Shoot carefully... swifter...
 
Good thinking, Swifter.

I might also note that the brass and copper pot scrubbers are great for removing surface rust and provide a good surface for cold blue to boot.

Jim
 
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