Lubing Lee Mold

K

kingemandigger

Inactive
Just a quick question,
I recently recieved my lee mold and after reading the instructions (believe it or not) found out the lubing key places is required for smooth running and longevity, a fact previousley unknown to me whilst ordering my reloading supplies. Now, due to the fact that I don't particularly desire to pay extra shipping for some bullet lube online, I have tried to find an alternative lube for the purpose that I already have at home. After reading a few blogs, I found that for most people, any wax based lubricant works well, even paraffin if worse comes to worse. One thing that I do have is lee sizing lube which is wax based. Will this lube work for me, and if not, what will? thanks
 
I have never lubed a Lee AL mould. I have some Lee AL moulds that are 30 years old and still work fine. I have a 429, 255gr double mould that I have cast perhaps 10K bullets & it still works.
I know the directions say to lube your mold. But I see no sense in it.
Steel moulds are a different story.
 
If you have motor oil it will work just fine. It will smoke a bit at first. I use Mobil 1 due to the fact that I use it in my truck, and have a quart handy. I have used hog lard as well. Note if using motor oil, or lard/vegetable oil preheat the mold then lube with a cotton swab, or pipe cleaner.
 
I don't have an aluminum mould I have steel. On mine I use anti-sieze that you can get from an auto part store. A little on the pins and sprue plate. A little goes a long way.
 
I use high temp disc brake lube on pins and sprue plate screw where it needs it. Good for over 1500 degrees. Only a small amount applied to hot mold with tip of screwdriver.
 
I use high temp disc brake lube on pins and sprue plate screw where it needs it. Good for over 1500 degrees. Only a small amount applied to hot mold with tip of screwdriver.
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This (I use a matchstick).
Any high-temperature grease is good enough. Don't get any grease or oil in the mold cavities.
 
I use beeswax. It is handy as I can touch the wax to the hot mold and see how far it spreads on the mold. Easy to tell how much and not too much. It don't take much.
 
sounds a lot like more of a subjective matter. ill try a few of y'alls suggestions and hopefully will find one that works. Perhaps STP oil treatment (handy for use in bullet lube) on a Q-tip or motor oil.
 
Just a touch of beeswax on the alignment pins when hot. It works on the sprue plate screw as well but I started using Bull Plate for that a while ago. Just a touch, you don't want oil or wax getting into the cavities or vent fins.
 
I would use standard motor oil before STP. It only takes enough to wet a q tip. Heat the mold up. (Make sure to degrease teh mold well before using it. I boiled mine in soapy water for a few minutes before rinsing with clean water. I then let it dry well.) Lube the contact points. Your mold should have a picture showing where to put the lube. Also lube the bottom of the sprue plate. It helps a lot.
 
I have never lubed a Lee AL mould. I have some Lee AL moulds that are 30 years old and still work fine. I have a 429, 255gr double mould that I have cast perhaps 10K bullets & it still works.
I know the directions say to lube your mold. But I see no sense in it.
Steel moulds are a different story.
Click to expand...

You lube the sprue plate, and yes it does help.

I use Alox. Paraffin would probably work just as well.
 
Synthetic 2 stroke oil. Apply sparingly with a cotton swab to hinges, pivot points and alignment pins. Also doesn't hurt to wipe down the bottom side of the sprue plate with it VERY sparingly, it will prevent lead smears, but...you don't want any in the mold cavities.
 
Synthetic 2 stroke oil. Apply sparingly with a cotton swab to hinges, pivot points and alignment pins. Also doesn't hurt to wipe down the bottom side of the sprue plate with it VERY sparingly, it will prevent lead smears, but...you don't want any in the mold cavities.
Click to expand...

Finally some good advice!

Oil, paraffin, other waxes, all burn and leave a nasty/sticky residue on mold surfaces. Anti seize usually has granulated copper in it, that will result in holding the mold halves apart.

The bullplate lube sold by bullshop, is simply synthetic 2 cycle oil. It's made to keep lubricating even at the very high temps inside a 2 cycle engine. SOOOooo it stays on the mold surfaces and does not oxidize or turn into gunk. It also does not migrate/spread like oil or wax does. That keeps it out of the cavities. A little goes a L-0-N-G way.

Alox 50/50 boolit lube is half bees wax, half alox rust preventative. It used to be IIRC #6138, but that is no longer made.

Another thing to ignore in the Lee instructions, is the smoke the mold cavities part. Smoke is for signalling other Indians. Keep it out of mold cavities.
 
I guess I am different. I have been casting bullets for 35years. I have never even lubed the sprue plate on an aluminum mould. I smoke my moulds when I flux my melt and that is only once before I start casting. I own 20 various Lee moulds.
When I used steel moulds, I lubed them after I finished a casting session with a light oil and only to prevent rust. I sold all of my cast iron moulds and now use aluminum exclusively. Aluminum mould are lighter, they heat/cool fast, and do not rust.
 
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