Lubes and Cleaners

K

Kodiac

New member
Okay - lets talk about some of these new products out on the market - I can't afford to try them all - or even keep track of them!
What's the best SLICKER UPPER and the best CLEANER UPPER?

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"There is no Spoon"
 
Kodiak. Try MP-7 as a cleaner. I got some at a gun show and it works real good. I have an old 30-30 made in 1910. The bore was very dark from improper cleaning of the corrosive residue. The rifle shot real well, but the black bore bugged hell out of me. I tried Hoppes #9, shooteres choice, JB bore paste, Bon Ami and water, nothing worked. Well I tried this MP-7 stuff. Wet the bore down, let it soak for about a half hour. Then I scrubbed it with a tight brush. Soaked it again for about another half hour, then swabbed it with tight patches. I then ran clean dry patches through the bore and dried it out. All I can say it is is now a light grey color, shoots just as well as before, and is something I can live with. The literature that came with this stuff said it was a non-toxic cleaner developed for the military. Let's face it, most of the gun cleaners today are toxic, due to the ammonia content. I have even heard rumors that the EPA wants to eliminate these cleaners from the market. They have an E-mail address, but I don't have it at hand. I'll look it up and get back to you.
Paul B.
 
Kodiak. I stand corrected. I don't have an E-mail address. However , if you can't find it locally here is their address and phone #:
Windfalls Distributing, Inc.
P.O. Box 54988
Phoenix, AZ 85078
Ph: 1-800-937-4677
I liked the stuff so well, I wrote them a testimonial, and said they could quote me. In fact, I have never, ever praised a product before, but what that stuff did to clean up the barrel of a family heirloom was amazing. They gave a demo at the show. If you were selling a gun, they'd ask if you cleaned it. Well just about everybody selling a gun cleans it, right? Well then they clean the bore with the MP-7, and you should see the dirt that other solvents don't get. It was impressive. I bought the quart size. I've used about half of it now. Next time I'll buy the gallon size. One thing though, you must oil the bore after using it, as the bore is totally dry.
Hope you find this usefull.
Paul B.
 
I like G96 Gun Treatment. It cleans well and leaves a light preservative film. It doesn't seem to affect any finish I have used it on (though it will, of course, soak into dry wood). I once saw a guy hose down a $75,000 Paterson Colt with it, so he at least didn't think it would harm the finish.
 
For my precision shooting Remington, I use a blend of Hoppe's and Ammonia 26. Let it set and shove the blue stuff out.

For other guns, Breakfree b/c I've got a lot of it and don't have to bother with lubricating.

Just tried Remington Bore Cleaner and it works great but it seems to have some gritty abrasive so I still have some reservations about it.

For blackpowder, I've finally settled on denatured alcohol (range use) for range use to keep the fouling down. It works great in preventing rusting if you have a long long drive home.
 
Once upon a time, I used Hoppe's #9 & 3in1, Browning, Remington, or Singer (yeah the sewing machine folks) oils. Now, I use only Break-Free CLP for powder residue & gilding metals and general surface protection. I use polyethylene grease for runners, rails, tracks and ride over points. I use dry teflon powder on polymer to polymer surfaces, such as inside my Orlite mags, where I don't want to take the chance of any penetrating solvent/carrier wreaking havoc with my primers.
 
About the newest stuff I've used is the Hoppe's #9 Benchrest Copper Solvent. I had been getting grumpy about group sizes from a couple of pet rifles. I followed the directions, and then went to the bench rest.

Shot two of the tightest groups I've ever shot...Good enough test for me.
 
About the 2 best sources of firearm & knive cleaning & protecting supplies are:

http://www.mp7.com

http://www.sentrysolutions.com

Both sets of products are far and away better than any others I have used. They are recommended by most major knife makers, many of the major firearms makers, and our own Special Forces.

AJ
 
Just FYI, we carry the full line of Sentry Solutions products, and IMO their Armorer's Kit is a very good buy. Check out our store section and see for yourself which products you like.

Spark

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Kevin Jon Schlossberg
SysOp and Administrator for BladeForums.com
www.bladeforums.com
 
Thanks...

But know one mentioned the SLICKEST Lube available... What do you use to get the the action moving the smoothest?


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"There is no Spoon"
 
Kodiac: I was talking with Mark Graham of ARS over the phone a month or so ago and he related that "...whatever you could get for free..." was probably the best...Mark also related that automotive lubricants work really well if you're not concerned about staining something. For me, TriFlo works fine in terms of SLICKING...Hoppes #9 for cleaning.
 
For my taste, Shooter's Choice/Kroil mixed 2:1 for cleaning, moly grease for bolt lugs, and Dillon's Snake Oil for the rest works better than any else I've tried.

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Shoot carefully... swifter...
 
I just started using MP-7 or M Pro 7 (their new name) and it works really well. I have used it room temperature, but they say you can also heat it up in the microwave and its performance is improved. You can also use it in an ultrasonic cleaner. As it is, it is the only thing that I found that can take the black off the front of the cylinder of my Model 66. I read in their literature that it is the only cleaner approved for the gun in the Apache helicopter. I also ordered their oil to try out, but can't give you any substinative results yet. I do like Gunslick lube, but that is just habit with me. Also for polishing, I have had great results with Flitz, from Germany, in the blue package. I tell you, the old Model 66 has never looked so good.
 
Kodiak; the slickest lube, according to what I have read, and will try soon, is the Thin Film Protection products. Smooth Kote is a thin liquid that you use to cover the clean degreased parts. You then sprinkle some powder, BP-2000, which is claimed to reduce friction another 20%. You only need to do this at rare intervals; they claim a Glock fired 40,000 rounds and still had a good coating. You can tell if the parts are coated by simply brushing them with a toothbrush. The dirt should come right out.

Yes, you say, but isn't PTFE the slickest stuff around. Answer is yep, it is, but the problem is getting it to stick to the surfaces. This is why Slick 50 didn't work; the PTFE just slipped right off the parts, it didn't bind with the metal for 50,000 miles as claimed.

ANY good lube will work; I would use a grease such as Shooter's Choice on very high stress areas such as slide rails, and disconnector hollow in slide (of 1911). The problem with conventional lubes is that they attract dirt. Dry, thin film lubes don't.

Check out the Sentry Armorer's kit. It is enough to lube and protect 30 guns, and costs $30 from Discount Knives, whose URL is:
http://www.discountknives.com/index.html

I am NEVER without a Sentry Tuf Cloth. It is a thin cloth you just wipe on to a firearm or knife, and it dries in 20-30 seconds to a thin, non tacky, nearly invisible film. It really works; one comes in the Armorer's kit, more are available from Discount Knives for about $6. Keep that bluing in fine shape, and those critical hammer/sear/trigger contact surfaces well lubricated. Hope this helps, Walt
 
I'll second Walt's recommendation on Sentry Solution products. I'm currently testing it on two 1911's, a .22 rifle, the Steyr Scout and a Remington 660. So far, I'm *really* impressed. (See the thread in the Gear Forum).

For those wishing to purchase, please check out our sister site at http://www.bladeforums.com . They carry the products in their online store. If the prices are competitive, I'd like to support these guys...they did a lot to help get TFL started.
Rich

[This message has been edited by Rich Lucibella (edited April 18, 1999).]
 
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