As others have said, non-tumble lube boolits can be lubed using lee's liquid allox,(LLA), but MAY have to be sized. The actual diameter they will drop from the mold at can be too big to seat in a case, and still chamber freely. This has to do with how big the mold cavity is and also which alloy you're using.
Then you have to size. Back when I still used an oil based lube on boolits, I bought the lee sizers, which are simple push through sizers that screw into a reloading press like a reloading die. They work!!! The round container they come in serves as a receptacle for the sized boolits allowing them to accumulate after they are pushed through the die.
Powder coating is another whole 'nuther subject. There's a couple of different coatings, and several methods of applying the coating. Some just call it paint so the listener sort-of understands. Hi-tech has a lot of users, but the chemicals are harsh and you usually need two coats .
Powder coatings come in many colors, and can even be mixed to give spectacular effects. It usually results in a mottled combination of the 2 colors, not a true mix like liquid paint. Application has 2 different processes. 1, Tumbling the boolits in a plastic bowl generates static electricity to make the powdered paint stick to the boolits . Then they are baked in an oven to make the powder turn into a liquid, coating the boolits.
2, A spray gun that comes as an electrostatic unit. It requires a compressor or other source of pressurized air. There are units available that do NOT require a compressor, but results are poor. ES,(electrostatic spray), results in a much more uniform coating and a smooth shiny surface. Powder coating,(PC), results in a bigger boolit, IE outside diameter is bigger. This means 2 things. 1. If the boolit was already at the desired size/diameter, then the additional 2-3 thousandths will have to be sized back down. 2. However if the boolit was undersized, you will add diameter so It won't have to be sized.
1. The powder coating is quite hard. 2. It is also very slippery, IE it slides easily down the barrel. 3. It also has no oil in it, so much less smoke. 4. Clean-up of the barrel is quick and easy as there's no leading. 5. It's tough stuff and sticks to the boolit like glue. One test is called a smash test, literately pounding with a hammer on a steel plate to see the powder coat still sticking to the boolit. 6. recovered boolits show the PC still sticking and the rifling simply pressed/engraved into the boolit.
I have quit lubing ALL my boolits with grease. I may even sell my 2 Lyman 450 sizers and all the lube I have for them. Powder coating is the future of lead boolit casting
My equipment consists of the Harbor Freight,(HF), ES PC gun, An inexpensiveHF vibrator compressor,(3 gallon), and a goodwill toaster oven that cost me 10 bucks. Paint I first tried was the HF red, it works fine but is of a coarse consistency. I since went with a company called powder-by-the-pound. A pound of powder coat from them is about 15-20 bucks. A # will coat many thousands of boolits.
Take a long look over at cast boolits . com here;
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/forumdisplay.php?184-Coatings-and-Alternatives It's all there IF you really want to know that is-------------.