Low and left.

Clevinger

New member
I went out and shot my XDM 9mm a bunch tonight. It was a blast. I really like the XD's and XDMs.

I was shocked at how fast you can go through bullets with the 19+1 capacity on the XDM, however...a good sort of "shocked." :)

Anyway, for a beginner I feel like I'm pretty accurate. I was happy with my aim the majority of the time. However, I had a handful of shots that were low and to the left...if I missed bad, it was always low and to the left. I shoot right handed.

Isn't there a chart that shows you what to correct based on where you are missing?
 
Yep. Thompson Target makes something it calls the "trouble shooter" target which includes a chart explaining several categories of consistently off-target shots. According to this, if you're a right hander, consistently low left means you're jerking the trigger and in doing so, pushing the gun down and away from you. The solution is to concentrate on squeezing the trigger. If you're jerking the trigger, don't feel bad about it. New guns with unfamiliar triggers often produce not-wonderful results the first couple of times at the range. A great cure for jerking is to practice dry firing while watching the front sight of the gun. If it moves while you're pulling the trigger, then you have a problem. Concentrate on keeping that sight absolutely still. After you've done that a couple of hundred times it will become second nature to you.
 
I wrote this a couple weeks ago for someone and it seems to apply to you, too, so here it is again. If some of it doesn't apply to you and your gun, ignore it. ;)

Your shots hitting low is due to you anticipating the shot and jerking the gun a bit right before it fires.There are ways to train yourself out of this "flinching."

1) Dry-Firing. No, it will not hurt your firing pin or any other part of your gun. Tack a small dot on the wall about 12 feet away. Take all ammo out of the room and check your gun to make sure it's empty. Now check it again.
Once you are triply sure that it's empty, position yourself and aim at the dot. Concentrate wholly on the FRONT SIGHT. Naturally, the dot on the wall will be blurred when you're focusing on the front sight, but you'll still be able to see it. Line up the three dots of your rear and front sights, keeping the dot on the wall above the front sight.
Still staring at the front sight and holding as steady as you can, SLOWLY press the trigger until your hear the "click." Did your front sight dip when the trigger broke? If not, that's good! That is what you want to replicate 100% at the range. Rack the slide enough to reset the trigger and repeat 20X, being very deliberate each and every time.

2) FRONT SIGHT!!!! This was mentioned above but bears repeating. It's one of those "holy ****" things that will improve anyone's handgun accuracy. Focus 100% on the front sight, NOT the target. Let the target blur in the distance and let the rear sights blur in the foreground; you want ALL of your attention and focus on that front sight dot.

3) Trigger control. If you squeeze the trigger too quickly you'll probably pull your sights off target. A slow press of the trigger straight back toward your face will ensure that the sights remain on target.
Also, by pressing the trigger slowly, you will not know exactly when the trigger will break (go "click") and that's a good thing. If you know when to expect the "click" then you'll also know when to expect the "boom" when you're live-firing and consequently your subconscious mind will know when to flinch. You want to be surprised by the click (or boom) every time.

Once you can do all this during dry-firing sessions, you are ready for real ammo at the range. One great way to check yourself for flinching at the range is to purchase "snap caps" which are just dummy rounds that can be loaded into your magazine and will feed and chamber just like a real round.
Have a friend randomly load up your mag with, say, 8 live rounds and 4 snap caps. Your back should be turned away so you won't have any idea, at any given time during the shooting session, whether you're squeezing the trigger on a live round or a dummy round. Only when you hear the "click" will know it was a dummy round.
The thing to look for (and have your friend look for, too!) is your reaction immediately after the "click" of a dummy round. Did your gun's muzzle move? If it did, that means you need work on that flinch because it's preventing you from being accurate! The way to work on it is by doing everything mentioned above, time and time again. Once you learn that the "boom" isn't gonna hurt you in the least, you'll notice that your muzzle stays exactly still when one of those snap-caps sneaks in there!

The reason I say that a .45ACP isn't the ideal 1st handgun for someone is because it does have a big "boom" compared to a little .22lr handgun and that boom and recoil can be intimidating and lead to a flinch. Once the little, quieter guns are mastered, then folks are generally ready to take what they've learned and apply to it to a larger caliber. This doesn't mean that you can't learn to shoot correctly on your XD45, but it'll take practice. It is all mental, really.
 
Beginners always shoot low and left. You're anticipating the bang recoil and subconsciously trying to compensate for it. Stop doing that and you'll shoot straight.
 
The first principle of accurate shooting is trigger control: a smooth, press straight back on the trigger with only the trigger finger moving. Maintain your focus on the front sight as you press the trigger, increasing pressure on the trigger until the shot breaks. Don't try to predict exactly when the gun will go off nor try to cause the shot to break at a particular moment. This is what Jeff Cooper called the "surprise break."


By keeping focus on the front sight and increasing pressure on the trigger until the gun essentially shoots itself, you don’t anticipate the shot breaking. But if you try to make the shot break at that one instant in time when everything seem steady and aligned, you usually wind up jerking the trigger. Of course the gun will wobble some on the target. Try not to worry about the wobble and don’t worry about trying to keep the sight aligned on a single point. Just let the front sight be somewhere in a small, imaginary box in the center of the target.

Also, work on follow through. Be aware of where on the target the front sight is as the shot breaks and watch the front sight lift off that point as the gun recoils – all the time maintaining focus on the front sight.

Also, while practice in very important, remember that practice doesn’t make perfect. It’s “PERFECT practice makes perfect.” More frequent practice shooting fewer rounds, but concentrating hard on what you’re doing, will be more productive than less frequent, higher round count practice.

Practice deliberately, making every shot count, to program good habits and muscle memory. Dry practice is very helpful. You just want to triple check that the gun is not loaded, and there should be no ammunition anywhere around. When engaging in dry practice, religiously follow Rule 2 - Never Let Your Muzzle Cover Anything You Are Not Willing To Destroy." As you dry fire, you want to reach the point where you can't see any movement of the sight as the sear releases and the hammer falls.

Finally, some instruction is always a good idea. I try to take classes from time to time; and I always learn something new.

Think: front sight, press, surprise.
 
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Thanks you guys.

I appreciate you guys taking the time to explain that.

I've noticed, in general, the guys like you who have been shooting awhile are actually really nice and helpful to new shooters.

When I started shooting a couple of weeks ago I was afraid I would be in the way of the experienced guys and I was afraid my questions would seem stupid. Quite the contrary. Every other shooter I've been around has gone out of his way to answer questions and be helpful. It has been a great environment on here and at the local range.

I didn't grow up with guns around, so I have a bit more of a learning curve.
 
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